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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Well...it's not dead but but originally you know how when you turn the car to acc mode the battery will register about halfway or almost to the second mark. But now my batter will barely hit the 1st mark on the battery gauge and suprisingly it will start with that much charge but I'm kinda confused on why it doesn't die but gets weak...Is the battery dying?

Lil Background:
About 1 1/2 weeks ago the battery died and had to be jumped will this shorten the life. Also it is a 2005 and has about 22,000 mi. and is all stock.

Side Note:
When it does start the battery and the RPM needles will bounce rapidly on before they register the actual RPM or voltage for about 10 seconds...

So...Help. :dunno:

And yes I've checked for cab lights, door lights, truck bed lights and I can't find anything.

And it is a quick drain for instance: I can drive it around it'll be fine register a good charge in acc mode but If i leave it for even three hours it will get low down to the 1st mark on the battery gauge.

Looonnngg I know, but just trying to get you some good info.

And if you look at my sig and think "no wonder he's selling it, it has problems." No thats not the case it's just that I just bought my dream car: 2005 Corvette.
 

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Sounds like a bad cell. Dump it before it dumps you.
 

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I agree - sounds like a bad cell. At least you're getting some warning. Others (including me) have had them die w/o any advance warning.
 

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Deep discharging ordinary lead acid 12 volt batteries will sulfate the plates and shorten the life of the battery. You can counteract this to some extent with the desulphate cycle type of chargers.

Re battery condition, if you won't be using the truck for a couple of days (or have a spare battery), you can take out the battery, charge it for a day, rest it for a day, then measure the open terminal voltage. If it is below 12.6 volts, probably time for a new battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Have considered something along those lines but...I had it "custom tuned" for the 2* timing advance, won't disconnecting the battery lose it unless I do something to maintain voltage to the car?
 

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Hot_Titan said:
Well...it's not dead but but originally you know how when you turn the car to acc mode the battery will register about halfway or almost to the second mark. But now my batter will barely hit the 1st mark on the battery gauge and suprisingly it will start with that much charge but I'm kinda confused on why it doesn't die but gets weak...Is the battery dying?

Lil Background:
About 1 1/2 weeks ago the battery died and had to be jumped will this shorten the life. Also it is a 2005 and has about 22,000 mi. and is all stock.

Side Note:
When it does start the battery and the RPM needles will bounce rapidly on before they register the actual RPM or voltage for about 10 seconds...

So...Help. :dunno:

And yes I've checked for cab lights, door lights, truck bed lights and I can't find anything.

And it is a quick drain for instance: I can drive it around it'll be fine register a good charge in acc mode but If i leave it for even three hours it will get low down to the 1st mark on the battery gauge.

Looonnngg I know, but just trying to get you some good info.

And if you look at my sig and think "no wonder he's selling it, it has problems." No thats not the case it's just that I just bought my dream car: 2005 Corvette.
What bothers me is the fact that you say when it does start, the needles bounce. That doesn't sound like a battery problem because once started, you're running off the alternator and not the battery. I'd have it checked out before you get stranded somewhere. Have the dealer test the battery and charging system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I opted for the new battery and I'm going to correct myself and say it wasn't only the battery gauge and RPM gauge needles that bounced but EVERY needle on every gauge bounced for a couple seconds...But that was before the battery swap and everything seems ok. I guess I'll give it a lil time to confirm, I just don't like taking it to the dealer it always comes back with more problems or they can't find whats wrong with it and say "well I've never seen that before but I'll let you know if I find anything out".

Anywho thanks for the help glad the 2* advances is still there although it wouldn't of made a huge difference to me now that I have a Corvette.

Thanks guys,
David

:cheers:

BTW: My truck is still for sale and is in great shape so if anyone you know is interested let me know and I'll see if I can work'em a deal...I'll even throw in a new battery!
 

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Hot_Titan said:
I opted for the new battery and I'm going to correct myself and say it wasn't only the battery gauge and RPM gauge needles that bounced but EVERY needle on every gauge bounced for a couple seconds...But that was before the battery swap and everything seems ok.
This is because of the ECU in our trucks. It is less tolerant of marginal battery voltage by design. Without having the circuit design and programming info in front of me (yeah, good luck in getting THAT), my guess is that Nissan wanted to give it a kind of 'limp in' mode and the needles bouncing are supposed to signal that.

A number of guys have complained that the battery registers, but the truck won't start. That's because the voltage falls as the starter is drawing heavy amperage to turn the engine over. It's just enough to pull the battery voltage (in electronics terms, the power supply or VCC) below minimum.

If you've got a good charging system, but the battery goes down quickly for no apparent reason, you can check the specific gravity of each cell. A marginal one will show up right away. An alternate way that often works, is if you have the engine running, remove the tops off the cells and just watch them all for a minute. If you've got a shorted one, it'll be bubbling at a significantly higher rate than the others.

In your case, though, it sounds like you've fixed it already...
 

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HudsonValleyTitan said:
What bothers me is the fact that you say when it does start, the needles bounce. That doesn't sound like a battery problem because once started, you're running off the alternator and not the battery. I'd have it checked out before you get stranded somewhere. Have the dealer test the battery and charging system.
We had a bunch of friends over one night, and we were outside listening to the radio in the truck, the next morning my truck started slow and the needles bounced for a minute. It has been fine ever since, I think the needle bounce is probably normal under a low voltage situation. Even though the alternator is running it will take a little time before the battery voltage comes back up to an acceptable level.
 

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helomech said:
We had a bunch of friends over one night, and we were outside listening to the radio in the truck, the next morning my truck started slow and the needles bounced for a minute. It has been fine ever since, I think the needle bounce is probably normal under a low voltage situation. Even though the alternator is running it will take a little time before the battery voltage comes back up to an acceptable level.
Oh ok. Thanks for the info. Very different than what I'm used to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks for the info Steamguy, could of easily checked myself to confirm if it was pushing up daisys or not but I had it tested at AutoZone and they said its flat lining so I just got a new one and was done with it...So far so good.

I think what did it in was the fact that the battery was under a heavy draw and died and was then jumped which kills the life span.
 
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