Just in case anyone here is a synthetic nut like myself I don't think I would recommend trying it out in your new Titan. At 1000 miles I drained the factory fill oil and put Mobil 1 10W-30 in it. Yesterday at 2000 miles I dumped it out and put Havoline 5W-30 in it. Why would I waste expensive Mobil 1???? Glad you asked........ever since I put it in the engine it sounded louder at idle, more valve train noise than what it did with the factory fill oil. No noticeable gas mileage drop or other noises during acceleration or cruise, just a whole lot of valve train noise at idle. Now that I put good old dino juice back in it all is quiet at idle now. I guess I may have to change my views concerning synthetics with what I know now concerning the Titan. I'll be picking up a couple of cases of Chevron Supreme, which by the way does awesome in oil sample tests.
Just Drained The Mobil 1
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JetTech
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Jet, how does one go about getting oil tested? I'm thinking about changing mine this weekend (at 2k currently) and I was thinking about using Mobil 1 Syn until the shop forman at the dealership and your test results convinced me otherwise. Our local dealership uses Mobil (non-syn) so I'm thinking about using that as well.
Karl
Karl
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Changed my oil at 1100 miles or there abouts... Took it to Nissan and they had no issues in changing my oil early in fact they said it was a good idea.. They put in there Nissan oil and I have no issues with that.. I figure if something does go wrong they can't point the finger at my oil.
:cheers:
:cheers:
the engine oil bible: http://www.fernblatt.com/longhurst/engineoil_bible.html
There are many schools of thought on the whole break-in process as well as when to change the oil. I don't think I've read anything scientific concerning this issue but I sure have read lots of past experiences. I've always been the "break it in like your going to drive it" type person and then get rid of the oil as quick as possible. My oil sample, that I just did, proves there's a bunch of crap floating around in the oil after only 1000 miles. I have a hard time believing that it would be better to let it sit in there for another 2k miles rather than change it out and put fresh in. Most all of the tuners I've spoke with say the engine is broken in by the time we buy'em on the lots. Lot's of hard running after the vehicle is assembled and a few test drives seems to do the trick. Who knows for sure.outahere said:
My wifes Aviator had 5800 miles on it when we bought it (demo) and the first oil change was done at 5100 miles. I doubt it will decrease the longevity of the engine but I'm would have liked to have been able to do an oil sample at that time, or maybe not!!!
These threads about oil and fuel always fascinate me.
I think anybody that offers their opinion in any depth should first state their credentials in terms of the subject at hand.
I'm not saying some of you don't have any experience with oils, but I think it's important to state specific reasons why you consider one better than another.
In addition I always read any forum post with a healthy dose of skepticism. The above comment about finding fragments in an oil test is good information, but what does it really mean? Is it an acceptable level? Is a certain level good? Does it depend on what kind of stuff is in there to judge what is good and bad?
Years ago nobody knew that we had insect fragments in much of our food. Now that we know about it we still eat. In other words knowing something is there that always has been might not be that big of a deal.
Don't forget, the oil analysis guy need to make a living too...
My .02
I think anybody that offers their opinion in any depth should first state their credentials in terms of the subject at hand.
I'm not saying some of you don't have any experience with oils, but I think it's important to state specific reasons why you consider one better than another.
In addition I always read any forum post with a healthy dose of skepticism. The above comment about finding fragments in an oil test is good information, but what does it really mean? Is it an acceptable level? Is a certain level good? Does it depend on what kind of stuff is in there to judge what is good and bad?
Years ago nobody knew that we had insect fragments in much of our food. Now that we know about it we still eat. In other words knowing something is there that always has been might not be that big of a deal.
Don't forget, the oil analysis guy need to make a living too...
My .02
Actually it does make quite a difference Lance. If you want some really good reading go to http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/. There you can read about literally hundreds of used oil samples and come to your own conclusions. Just because an oil does well in one application doesn't mean it will do well in another. There's a bunch of great reading there and will make you an oil addict like me if the subject interests you.
Also I may have got ahead of myself in one of my earlier posts concerning the use of synthetics. I've been so die-hard synthetics for so long that I think I will probably try the Mobil Delvac 1 5W-40 when I reach the 3k mile mark. I had made up my mind to just use Chevron Supreme but I doubt I'll be able to. Some habits I just can't quit. The Delvac is a gas and diesel oil and has a rock solid additive package along with rock solid used oil analysis in pretty much anything it's put in. I'll do an oil sample on it just to make sure after I put it in. I get fickle when it comes to different oils every now and then :jester:
The things you heard years ago were mostly true. Pennzoil has done a total turnaround over the last several years. Everything from using a highly refined base stock to an excellent additive package. It's hard to put old stories to rest but they have done it in a big way.
thanks for the info,im now at 1100 miles in my xe kc. was thinking about mobile 1 until i read your posting.i had an 01 xterra i used castrol syntec
religiously,always thought valve train sounded louder than it should. never thought possibly due to oil- i think i,ll stick with 5w30 pennzoil
religiously,always thought valve train sounded louder than it should. never thought possibly due to oil- i think i,ll stick with 5w30 pennzoil
I'll keep reporting back here with my oil samples so we can all see how this 5.6L is going to react with different kinds of oils. So far I give the Mobil 1 10W-30 a huge thumbs down for drive train noise. I posted earlier that I'll probably try Mobil Delvac 1 5W-40 and see how that does. That's one of Mobil's best synthetics and falls within the viscosity grades Nissan recommends.YHTGET said:
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Jet,JetForeman said:
I went to a Chevron gas station to look at the Chevron Supreme oil. On the front of the bottle it states in small letters "formulated with ISO SYN" Do you know what that terminology means? Sounds like it may be a synthetic.
I went to Sam's today and got prices on cases of the oil that the carry. I thought folks might like to know what to expect price wise.
Havolin 10w30
1 case (12 quarts)
$18.88 ($1.57 per quart)
Castrol 10w30
1 case (12 quart)
$18.67 ($1.55 quart)
Castrol 10w30
New 5 gallon jug (20 quarts)
$30.14 ($1.50 quart)
By the way, I gased up at Sam's while I was there today and paid $1.55 a gallon for 87 octane. To save $$$, I won't let my Titan drink "call brands" she drinks regularly at Sam's and does just fine.
Robert
LanceK, my credentials are an executive engineer for a research lab and my department is Special Lubrication Applications. So, I get to play in the oil and grease every day.
About the "required" Nissan transmission fluids. It may have a propreitary friction modifier that is not available in aftermarket fluids. Chrysler fluids have these types of modifiers. I still have no specs on Nissans lube requirements so this is just a maybe.
Jetforeman, I looked at your analysis. That's pretty nasty for just 1000 miles. Of concern to me is the level of copper. Do you by any chance know who designed the dual cam and timing system? Borg-Warner would be my guess and if so, this is most likely the cam bearings. I am going to assume that the cam bearings are on the far end of the oil system from the pump. This is most likely why Nissan recommends dino as synthetics don't stay on the job after the pump stops. Synthetics have great pump rates but that same property means that it flows off of parts just as easily as it flows to them. Dinos will leave a residual coating that protects until the pressure gets there.
You also stated that synthetics are mineral based. PAO basestocks are gas to liquid technology. Gp III basestocks are liquid AND gas to liquid technology. Ester are reactive acid based. I expect the future is in esters as they are far more stable, need fewer, if any, binders for the additive packages, and will handle the worst temp extremes.
About the "required" Nissan transmission fluids. It may have a propreitary friction modifier that is not available in aftermarket fluids. Chrysler fluids have these types of modifiers. I still have no specs on Nissans lube requirements so this is just a maybe.
Jetforeman, I looked at your analysis. That's pretty nasty for just 1000 miles. Of concern to me is the level of copper. Do you by any chance know who designed the dual cam and timing system? Borg-Warner would be my guess and if so, this is most likely the cam bearings. I am going to assume that the cam bearings are on the far end of the oil system from the pump. This is most likely why Nissan recommends dino as synthetics don't stay on the job after the pump stops. Synthetics have great pump rates but that same property means that it flows off of parts just as easily as it flows to them. Dinos will leave a residual coating that protects until the pressure gets there.
You also stated that synthetics are mineral based. PAO basestocks are gas to liquid technology. Gp III basestocks are liquid AND gas to liquid technology. Ester are reactive acid based. I expect the future is in esters as they are far more stable, need fewer, if any, binders for the additive packages, and will handle the worst temp extremes.
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