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splifrover

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
Installing Yakima Rack UPDATED PICS!!!!












Finally finished installing Yakima Racks. The install was pretty straight forward, but I did run into some problems:

1) Had to drill through two layer of metal. The first was sheet and the second was a thicker structural tube that went around the door.

2) When drilling pilot holes into the structural tube we broke two drill bits and had to nock them into the structural tube. (USED BIGGER DRILL BIT)

3) Broke Yakima's PlusNut install tool. Called Yakima and they overnighted the tool for free.

Other than that, the racks look great and the track looks factory. The only down fall is that where I mounted the track, you can not tell if there are any leaks.

Let me know what you all think!

Thanks
 
i think rack it sells mounts that hook above the doors or something like that they were showing me last time i was n there! i have the yakima and i think there are way more options what ever ya get make sure you get the locks cause they are easy to steal!!
 
A rail-system roof rack on a truck?

Am I missing something here?
 
Gr8Titan installed the Armada roof rack (drilling required) on hit titan...
 
Discussion starter · #8 · (Edited)
Yakima does have a ton of options. I've had yakima racks on all my vehicles: Grand Cherokee, Disco II, and F-150 CrewCab. In the past I have had ski racks (still do), bike rack, and load warrior. Like you said locks are a must! The rack system on the Mini is just like Thules and Yakima's base rack system. They both have the quick release system. The only differents is the track which gives you the option of sliding the crossbars.

Unlike my old F150 the way our trucks are designed the Q-towers with the clips that attach to the iniside of the door will not work. Drilling holes is the only way of attaching some sort of roof rack system. I have been want to do this for a while now, but never had the nerve to drill holes into my truck nor womeone else doing it. After watching an installation video at Rack Attack - Thule Rack, Yakima Rack : bike, ski, kayak, snowboard, cargo, I said, "F#@$ IT!!!"

I just ordered the Yakima's: 54" track, control towers, land pads #1, and 50" fairing. I already have the crossbars and locks from my old rack system. I went with Yakima b/c the plusnut looked more secure. Please someone correct me if I'm wrong. And, Yakima just looks better!!

Sorry for the long post, but I will take pics during progress.
 
Yeah, I'm still not getting the Yakima rack on a truck thing. Maybe it's just me.

Is there something wrong with the large, open space behind the cab commonly called a bed?:teethmast
 
this might help you visualize things:
Ah, I see.

I thought you guys were talking about these:

Image


So you might be able to understand why I found it a bit humorous.

I still think the idea of a truck with an open, unused bed needing a rack on the roof to store stuff is a little odd, but I'm not making your payments.
 
That roof rack looks awesome... I want it.
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
B/C IT LOOKS COOL!!! Why not? Fonties, Tacos, SportTracs, and new Chevys all have an optional roof rack system.

Yes, I am talking about the rack system on the blue car, but you still have the option for a basket.
 
I really like the racks on the Frontiers I wish they could have put them on the Titan. By the way DeadRiver I like your roof basket
 
Hey, ten 39....try putting a 17 ft. canoe in the bed of a titan and you'll see the purpose. Racks are mandatory on all my vehicles. It sucks that yakima and thule haven't figured out a way for a removable system. I'm about to do a perm install without the track (just don't see the need for adjustment fore and aft in this case). If you canoe/kayak with big boats, roof racks are a must!
 
splifrover you are the MAN. I have been wanting to do this for about two years, easy (http://www.titantalk.com/forums/titan-general-discussion/52737-titan-roof-rack.html), but haven't gotten the guts up to drill into my roof. i always just strap my canoe down on foam blocks, and have been wanting a rack up there, like i said, for about as long as i've had the truck.

i was doing another seemingly futile search and also just saw the video on rackattack.com and don't know how i have missed it. then i found your post here and am pumped.

you say you used the 54" track? it looks like it is just about the perfect length. if you did it again, would you get the 60" and cut it down a couple of inches? how wide are your crossbars? look like maybe they are the 58" bars?

and what was your problem with your drill bit - cheap bit, old bit, what? i would like to avoid parts of drill bits rattling around inside my frame if i can help it. even with the dual levels of metal, the plusnuts still worked out just fine for you? is the rack still nice and tight? have you had to go back and do any work on the plusnuts so far?

this has been about 5 months since you posted the install pics, any second thoughts, things you would do different?

again, you are the man for stepping up and doing this. i commend you for the cajones this took.

and for ten~39, this is why i need a rack...

Image
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
splifrover you are the MAN. I have been wanting to do this for about two years, easy (http://www.titantalk.com/forums/titan-general-discussion/52737-titan-roof-rack.html), but haven't gotten the guts up to drill into my roof. i always just strap my canoe down on foam blocks, and have been wanting a rack up there, like i said, for about as long as i've had the truck.

i was doing another seemingly futile search and also just saw the video on rackattack.com and don't know how i have missed it. then i found your post here and am pumped.

you say you used the 54" track? it looks like it is just about the perfect length. if you did it again, would you get the 60" and cut it down a couple of inches? how wide are your crossbars? look like maybe they are the 58" bars?

and what was your problem with your drill bit - cheap bit, old bit, what? i would like to avoid parts of drill bits rattling around inside my frame if i can help it. even with the dual levels of metal, the plusnuts still worked out just fine for you? is the rack still nice and tight? have you had to go back and do any work on the plusnuts so far?

this has been about 5 months since you posted the install pics, any second thoughts, things you would do different?

again, you are the man for stepping up and doing this. i commend you for the cajones this took.

and for ten~39, this is why i need a rack...

Image
The 54 is perfect. I bought the 60, but it was too long. Also the 60 comes will bolt, not the plus-nuts. Due to the shape of the roof you definitely need two people to hold down the track to mark the holes. I put down blue tape and mark the holes. Yakima does not give you plus-nuts for all the hole so make sure you count the nuts before you drill. Drilling holes in the roof definitely made me sick. The way the Titan's made, there are two layers of metals along the out edge of the roof (were mine is mounted). You have to drill through both b/c the plus-nut will not sit flush with the roof. The bits we were using for the pilot holes were too small. That's why they broke.

1. Take you time
2. Lay out tape mark hole (BE SURE TO COUNT THE PLUS-NUTS)
3. Punch holes and drill (use a bigger bit for pilot hole, make sure the drill is parallel to the roof, use a drill bit stopper)

You also might want to look at mounting it to the roof itself.


Good Luck!!!
 
great advice, i was thinking about asking yakima so send me their plusnuts with the 60" tracks, but you have changed my mind. taking your time is an obviously essential part of this project.

what about your cross bars? what size did you have? i'd love to use my old ones, but i think they may be too short. i stuck them on the roof yesterday just to gauge it, and it looks like it may be the same size as yours - can you put two boats on the roof with your bars? ideally, i would like it to be big enough for two canoes, i may need to step up to the 77" bars for that.

and as far as the location goes, i want it on the outside structural edges for a couple of reasons - strength and leak resistance. john hardin convinced me of that a long time ago. i don't like how fragile the roof sheet metal is. i have been up there before crawling around and it flexes waaaay too much for my comfort.

again, thanks for the advice on the pilot hole, i'll def keep you posted as i progress.
 
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