Here are some pics of my PRG mini lift with RC UCAs, First, I wanted to go with PRG UCAs but couldn't afford them after the improvements that I was wanting to do with my budget. I installed Rouch Country UCAs, PRG leveling kit, PRG rear 1 inch spacer, slotted disks and ceramic binders all the way around, Bilstein 5100s front and rear, PRG bumpstops, PRG endlinks, and stainless brake lines.
First, the new brakes were purchased off Ebay as a package deal for abour $206. Was it worth it? So far it is 100% improvement over the stock with flutter. The stainless lines increased the feel of the brakes but on my 04 with BT package, I needed six lines total, the package only came with 5 so I only put them on the calibers. Be sure to bleed them really well after the install.
The UCAs from RC have been great so far. No coil bucket contact. I used the PRG leveling kit and the 5100s set at their lowest setting. The ride is much better than stock. Some suggestions..
(1) be sure to double check every bolt. We used an impact on lots of things and I had 2 rattles after the install. Once was a rear shock that the impact didn't tighten enough.. muscle and a 1/2inch breaking bar fixed this. The other was more serious. The caliper bolts on one side where not tightened enough and when we found the rattle, one could be loosened up and taken out by hand... so DOUBLE CHECK!
(2) Spray all bolts down with a rust or loosening solvent. You will not regret it!
(3)After installing the UCAs, be sure to lube them well enough using the grease zerks BEFORE installing the shocks. They are easier to reach then as the UCA will hang at their lowest level. I greased until I could see grease coming out, its easier to clean it up then to replace bushings because they weren't greased enough.
(4) Be sure to install the struts correctly. I did but doubted myself when heard the rattles so I took one side off and rechecked. There are a few links in the forums that discuss this install and the correct way here on TT.
(5) Be sure to wipe down your rotors.. should be common sense but you do NOT want any grease on your rotors.
(6) Rent a spring compressor form Autozone or somewhere. After you spin a wrench a couple times to get them compressed, use the impact and make it quicker and just figure it as a lesson learned. LOL
(7) Follow Gregs advice on installing the rear blocks. I read on his site that trial and error had shown the most efficient way of installing them. He is right, maybe 30-40 minutes tops on the rear block install.
(8) I noticed a difference with ceramic brakes on my Ford but am still unsure as to the Nissan. I wanted them mainly to help with brake dust control with chrome rims. Brake dust can embed if left on rims too long.
(9) The install threw everything out of alignment so I had to lights come on on dash. After an alignment and steering wheel alignment, they were reset and everything is great. I was told that the system was reading it was in a skid and thats why threw the VDC and ABS light.
(10) Lastly, I had some squeaks and things that were more pronounced after the install. After the alignment, with all four wheels on the ground... loosen your anti-sway bar all the way and then re-install with all four wheels on the ground and correct alignment. Fixed some of my sounds.
Those are about the only things I can tell ya to help out. I will post updated pics with before and after lift shots later in the week. Hope this helps.
I know some will ask why did I do 5100s and UCAs with a leveling kit. I wanted a better shock than stock for reasons that are self evident and combined with the leveling kit, they gave me and extra 1/2 inch in height. So I have 2 1/2 in the front and combined with the UCAs, I do not have ANY coil bucket contact. I had to do lots of cutting with the PWM to get the 325/60/18 to fit but the ride is still more controlled than stock. I do still have a slight rake and think it looks good.
First, the new brakes were purchased off Ebay as a package deal for abour $206. Was it worth it? So far it is 100% improvement over the stock with flutter. The stainless lines increased the feel of the brakes but on my 04 with BT package, I needed six lines total, the package only came with 5 so I only put them on the calibers. Be sure to bleed them really well after the install.
The UCAs from RC have been great so far. No coil bucket contact. I used the PRG leveling kit and the 5100s set at their lowest setting. The ride is much better than stock. Some suggestions..
(1) be sure to double check every bolt. We used an impact on lots of things and I had 2 rattles after the install. Once was a rear shock that the impact didn't tighten enough.. muscle and a 1/2inch breaking bar fixed this. The other was more serious. The caliper bolts on one side where not tightened enough and when we found the rattle, one could be loosened up and taken out by hand... so DOUBLE CHECK!
(2) Spray all bolts down with a rust or loosening solvent. You will not regret it!
(3)After installing the UCAs, be sure to lube them well enough using the grease zerks BEFORE installing the shocks. They are easier to reach then as the UCA will hang at their lowest level. I greased until I could see grease coming out, its easier to clean it up then to replace bushings because they weren't greased enough.
(4) Be sure to install the struts correctly. I did but doubted myself when heard the rattles so I took one side off and rechecked. There are a few links in the forums that discuss this install and the correct way here on TT.
(5) Be sure to wipe down your rotors.. should be common sense but you do NOT want any grease on your rotors.
(6) Rent a spring compressor form Autozone or somewhere. After you spin a wrench a couple times to get them compressed, use the impact and make it quicker and just figure it as a lesson learned. LOL
(7) Follow Gregs advice on installing the rear blocks. I read on his site that trial and error had shown the most efficient way of installing them. He is right, maybe 30-40 minutes tops on the rear block install.
(8) I noticed a difference with ceramic brakes on my Ford but am still unsure as to the Nissan. I wanted them mainly to help with brake dust control with chrome rims. Brake dust can embed if left on rims too long.
(9) The install threw everything out of alignment so I had to lights come on on dash. After an alignment and steering wheel alignment, they were reset and everything is great. I was told that the system was reading it was in a skid and thats why threw the VDC and ABS light.
(10) Lastly, I had some squeaks and things that were more pronounced after the install. After the alignment, with all four wheels on the ground... loosen your anti-sway bar all the way and then re-install with all four wheels on the ground and correct alignment. Fixed some of my sounds.
Those are about the only things I can tell ya to help out. I will post updated pics with before and after lift shots later in the week. Hope this helps.
I know some will ask why did I do 5100s and UCAs with a leveling kit. I wanted a better shock than stock for reasons that are self evident and combined with the leveling kit, they gave me and extra 1/2 inch in height. So I have 2 1/2 in the front and combined with the UCAs, I do not have ANY coil bucket contact. I had to do lots of cutting with the PWM to get the 325/60/18 to fit but the ride is still more controlled than stock. I do still have a slight rake and think it looks good.
