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The dealer informed me that they flush the rear differential and install new synthetic oil. The cost is 189.00. Can anyone tell me if that's a normal procedure. Flushing in lieu of draining. Also having the ECM recall done. Thanks for any help.
 
Flushing in lieu of draining? That sounds like rubbish to me.

It seems that the dealer would have to first drain the pumpkin before flushing it. I remember years ago that shops used to promote and sell an engine flush at the time of oil change. First the engine was drained and then filled with a flushing solvent to remove carbon deposits and such and clean the internal engine components. It turned out to be a detrimental procedure and I haven't heard of it in years.

It sounds like a differential flush might be in the same category as an engine flush, probably not as harmful as an engine flush, but unnecessary.
 
Full of feces. Go to any parts house and get 3 bottles of Mobil 1 75w 140. Drive your truck until the fluid is hot. Unscrew the the top drain plug first (this allows the fluid to come out easier)...then unscrew the bottom one. Wait until it's empty. Put the bottom plug back in with a little hi temp loc tite. Then fill the pumpkin until new fluid comes out the top hole. It's a little over 2 bottles if I remember correctly. Costs you about $50 in parts and 15 minutes of your time.
 
Full of feces. Go to any parts house and get 3 bottles of Mobil 1 75w 140. Drive your truck until the fluid is hot. Unscrew the the top drain plug first (this allows the fluid to come out easier)...then unscrew the bottom one. Wait until it's empty. Put the bottom plug back in with a little hi temp loc tite. Then fill the pumpkin until new fluid comes out the top hole. It's a little over 2 bottles if I remember correctly. Costs you about $50 in parts and 15 minutes of your time.
I hope you meant Hi-Temp Silicone, a differential drain plug is the last place you want to put lock-tight.
 
I hope you meant Hi-Temp Silicone, a differential drain plug is the last place you want to put lock-tight.
I use 1 wrap of teflon plumbers tape.
 
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I hope you meant Hi-Temp Silicone, a differential drain plug is the last place you want to put lock-tight.
This stuff is used for parts that are disassembled. Like the bolts that that hold the caliper bracket or the differential plug. It does not permanently lock the threads, it just keeps thing from coming loose.

 
I just changed the rear diff fluid this last weekend. Fluid I used was 75w140 "walmart brand" synthetic maybe SuperTech, I can't remember. I don't offroad and honestly I dont put a lot of miles on the truck so for me, buying expensive fluid just isn't worth it. Got 3 bottles, about $11 bucks each.

Used the above procedure almost to the letter with one exception. You barely use any of that last third bottle, but you need it to get a proper fill. So I then plugged her up, when out for about 15min of "spirted" driving and drained just a little less than the left over in the 3rd bottle. Pluged her up (mindful that the oil is hot and flowing out), filled up the diff again with the remaining left of that 3rd bottle. Satisfied, that it cost me less than $40 bucks and about an hour. My fluid was black...jet black and my plug was just a clogged messed. Afterwards I looked at that last "less then one quart" that I drained in my idea of a "flush"....it was pretty much the same color as completley new fluid...and not worth the time or burned fingers. But I know for next time.
 
I just performed a quick look-see in the owners manual and the service manual. Nowhere can I find a requirement or recommendation to flush the differential nor a procedure to do so. I suppose if you really wanted to clean it out you could spray some brake fluid into the fill hole and let it drain out and then air it out (use compressed air to speed the process). Now, would brake fluid harm anything inside the differential/axle? I don't know for sure. I found one site that said it was OK but the AMSoil site has this TSB that says not to: http://www.amsoil.com/techservicesbulletin/Drivetrain/TSB-DT-2005-12-08%20Auto%20Differential%20Manual%20Trans%20Drain%20Flush.pdf. I use AMSoil fluid in my differentials so I'll follow their lead on this. If I was really anal and wanted the differential clean I would pull the cover and then wipe out the interior with a lint-free towel. Even then, that's not going to "flush" all the crud off the gears.
 
I would not spray brake fluid in there, since you really can't get all the oil out the axle, the brake fluid could mess up the remaining oil

Some dope may have said flush, but what you really do is drain and fill. Jezz, they may pour in a cup with the bottom plug out and call that a flush so they can charge $$$$ extra.
 
I would not spray brake fluid in there, since you really can't get all the oil out the axle, the brake fluid could mess up the remaining oil
Good poiont. I agree.
 
Just drain and refill. I did my rear axle a few months ago and I did my front yesterday. I didn't use and thread tape and I haven't had a drop or any weeping. To be honest if your a 4x worry about your transfer case because at 32k miles my TC fluid looked like watered down chocolate milk. We do have extreme heat here so that doesn't help. Im thinking im going to change It every 15k miles from now on.
 
I think you meant every 15,000 miles.

I just changed mine for the third time since owning it.

The first after 1500 miles, couldn't believe that the diff wasn't filled and the color of the oil, gray, gray, gray. The new 2004's were notorious for this issue, that's why I changed it so soon.

Next at 54,000, dark but not bad and very little crud on the plug.

Last change at 100,000; gear oil almost the same color as new and no crud on the plug.

Unless you are doing a lot of serious towing, 15,000 is probably overkill, but if it makes you feel better about it, go for it.
 
brake cleaner?...rarely it is a good idea to mix fluids

if you want to 'flush', change it, leave the tools out, run it on the highway for 10 minutes, com home and change it again.

AZ, TC fluid looked bad? Hmmm wonder what I will find at 30k. do you off road much?
 
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I think you meant every 15,000 miles.

I just changed mine for the third time since owning it.

The first after 1500 miles, couldn't believe that the diff wasn't filled and the color of the oil, gray, gray, gray. The new 2004's were notorious for this issue, that's why I changed it so soon.

Next at 54,000, dark but not bad and very little crud on the plug.

Last change at 100,000; gear oil almost the same color as new and no crud on the plug.

Unless you are doing a lot of serious towing, 15,000 is probably overkill, but if it makes you feel better about it, go for it.
Curious, an 04 right? If, when at what mileage did you do the vent mod?
 
brake cleaner?...rarely it is a good idea to mix fluids

if you want to 'flush', change it, leave the tools out, run it on the highway for 10 minutes, com home and change it again.

AZ, TC fluid looked bad? Hmmm wonder what I will find at 30k. do you off road much?
Yes my transfer case fluid looked awful. I was really shocked because I have owned and maintenanced alot of 4x4 's and this was by far the worst I have ever seen. I would say 20k intervals for trucks That are in hight heat areas maximum. Not alot of off roading. My diff oil looked just fine after 30k miles .
 
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