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Discussion starter · #21 ·
I was told by all three places I called that on a 4wd model you need to drop the axles out to do it. They could have been lying but I can't see anyway of removing the Ball joint without dropping the axle and brakes for clearance.
 
I was told by all three places I called that on a 4wd model you need to drop the axles out to do it. They could have been lying but I can't see anyway of removing the Ball joint without dropping the axle and brakes for clearance.
The shops were correct. It is simply a matter of lack of clearance because the post of the ball joint won't come out of the spindle with the axle in the way. Removing the brakes is just so you can get at the axle to remove it.
 
Yeah...on an '04 it might be worth your while because you already have most of the work done. My hubs lasted about 20k after the ball joints were replaced before they were shot.
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
might as well replace the hubs too, lol
LOL that's some good news! Truck has 43,000 miles (no that's not a typo) if the hubs are shot I am trading it in on a Prius!
 
82 on my 2004 and front end is popping like no other. I'm assuming it's the ball joints? just pulled radiator this weekend to get it repaired. that was really fun. hope my truck lasts and not everything starts going to s*it


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82 on my 2004 and front end is popping like no other. I'm assuming it's the ball joints?
Yeah, popping and binding especially when turning slowly ie into parking spots is a classic symptom of bad ball joints. Jack up your truck and give the wheel a shake, and if it moves at all up and down, then your ball joints are shot for sure.
 
I can see this job taking 10 hours if you are taking your sweet time and doing it on the ground with jack stands and hand tools. However I do not know how any shop could charge 8-10 hours of labor for this job. The "Motor" time guide states 3.1 hours for both sides (2.0 for one) plus an alignment. Most dealers are going to use a "bump" when quoting this but any person with the right knowledge and tools should not have any problems completing both in 2 hours. Nor should any shop be able to charge more than 4 hours and still be able to sleep at night. I wish I could get away with charging 10 hours on a job that takes 2. I did it on a lift with air tools and had to cut off a bolt on each side and still did it in under 2 hours. I also did not have cam bolts in my truck so I was unable to mark the locations when I took them out. That is why I had to have it aligned after I was done. I do not have access to an alignment rack with the correct heads to fit my wheels so I had to take it to someone else to do it.
 
If one side takes 2.6 hours, how does the second side only take 0.5 hours?
 
so creaking at slow speed when turning is ball joints?


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Discussion starter · #34 ·
so creaking at slow speed when turning is ball joints?


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Yes. It also pops when you make hard turns at low speeds as well as when you're turning and hit a bump or pothole. Very annoying creaking too. If you're unsure have someone turn the wheel while you're under the front end. If you can't pinpoint the sound cut a piece of hose and place it over where you think the noise is coming from ( or use a stethoscope like me). To test the ball joints jack the front end up, place a 2x4 or piece of box metal under the tire and lift up. You shouldn't have any movement in the ball joint if you do, replace it.
 
If one side takes 2.6 hours, how does the second side only take 0.5 hours?


Overlapped time, truck on lift, tools out, sway bar disconnected etc. It really doesn't take that long once all of that is taken care of. I still can't bileve people are getting away with charging 10 hours for this. That is just crazy! Either they are way overcharging, or they are some independent shop that has no idea what they are doing.
 
Just FYI, the Moog problem solver ball joints are top notch with a grease-able fitting. There are actually Moog lower control arms with the bushings and ball joint installed. Much easier!

Buy Moog Control Arm RK620511 at Advance Auto Parts

The Raybestos control arms from Rockauto are also far superior to the cheap Doorman. Just remember, there is a reason that the Doorman parts are so cheap!
 
I like Moog joints. I replaced the upper ball joints and tie rod ends with the greasable units. stronger and tough. the old nissan joints on mine were really shot, soft metal. junk.

I did not do the lower joints yet. guess that is next since the others were gone.

I am going to get Mevotech unless anybody has issues. Dorman makes one, but not sure on the joint. Contact dorman is in order. I am going to look into them. I got a steel gas tank from them for my 92 sentra. good stuff, fit right.

Chris 04
 
Lots of great info... How long can I expect new ball joints to last on a CST lifted 2wd running 35's?
 
Discussion starter · #39 · (Edited)
Just an FYI guys the Moog LCA's with ball joints are $98 a piece from Advanced Auto Parts, however if you order 'em before the 31st of March you get 15% off, plus free shipping, plus a $50 credit towards a future $100 purchase. Total price of $168+tax= $179.xx shipped to my door. If you need these or even if you don't that's even cheaper than the Dorman's! You do have to create an account which takes about 2 minutes anyway.
 
Just an FYI guys the Moog LCA's with ball joints are $98 a piece from Advanced Auto Parts, however if you order 'em before the 31st of March you get 15% off, plus free shipping, plus a $50 credit towards a future $100 purchase. Total price of $168+tax= $179.xx shipped to my door. If you need these or even if you don't that's even cheaper than the Dorman's! You do have to create an account which takes about 2 minutes anyway.

That's exactly what I did. Also ordered a transmission mount for good measure. That $50.00 credit will come in handy for some brake pads later this year. Free shipping was great too!

These LCA's come with a lifetime warranty also with is much more gooder than the OEM expensive stuff that's going to break again.
 
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