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MikeClark

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
I'm in the process of upgrading my cooling system with a koyorad all aluminum radiator and a dual e-fan setup. I've read all of the threads covering this topic and I still have a few questions I need answered.
The Fan setup comes with the wiring harness and relays and a 3/8 npt temperature probe that turns the fans on at 180 and off at 170. Will this temperature probe work or do I need a different one for my stock thermostat. I will be changing to new coolant since its never been done and my stock setup is at 165K. How much coolant and what type should I use? Does all of the old fluid drain out of the block or shoud I do some sort of flush? Should I replace my thermostat during this fiasco if so what would be a good upgrade? I will be either fabricating or having a fan shroud fabricated locally that will be similar to the one in this thread.http://www.titantalk.com/forums/tit...ions/156511-rp-performance-stage-2-nissan-titan-e-fan-installation-writeup.html Im trying to decide what thickness of aluminum to use. Thanks for all of the great info on this forum I'm really enjoying the slow restoration of my mildly neglected 04 4wd titan!
 
The stock thermostat opens at 195° F. I have a SPAL 195° F temperature probe inline in the upper radiator hose. Using Uprev Cipher I watched the engine temperature go up to 195° F and then dip down to about 185° F. Shortly after it hit 195° F my e-fans kicked on.

I'm not an emissions expert but what I read (on the Internet of course) is that engines are designed for optimal emissions by running in a specific temperature band. If the coolant is too cool then the engine isn't going to run optimally.
 
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Discussion starter · #3 ·
The stock thermostat opens at 195° F. I have a SPAL 195° F temperature probe inline in the upper radiator hose. Using Uprev Cipher I watched the engine temperature go up to 195° F and then dip down to about 185° F. Shortly after it hit 195° F my e-fans kicked on.

I'm not an emissions expert but what I read (on the Internet of course) is that engines are designed for optimal emissions by running in a specific temperature band. If the coolant is too cool then the engine isn't going to run optimally.
Good info thanks. It's helpful to have some numbers to go by in case my truck is running warmer than it should. I was going to monitor it with cipher but I want to do it in the morning when the asphalt is not melting. I read your fan setup thread you have a nice setup. Im thinking about getting an adjustable controller so I can fine tune the temperature.
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
So does that mean we have a 195 degree thermostat? Im looking at Titan thermostats online and only see 170 and 180. If I have a temperature probe that kicks the fans on at 180 and off at 170 what thermostat should I run?
 
As far as I know my thermostat opens at 195° F. I believe there may be a Nismo thermostat that is lower. I looked at what RockAuto has for thermostats for the Titan and I see what you mean about them being 170/180.

The 2007 Nissan Titan Service Manual lists the thermostat valve opening at 176° F to 183° F. So maybe the thermostats are sold using an average temperature?

Based on what I'm seeing I may have to go back and see what Cipher is telling me about my Titan's engine temperatures. If it really is getting up to 195° F before opening the valve then that seems to deviate from what the service manual indicates. I captured some brief logs a couple weeks ago and the coolant temp was 188° F. If the thermostat is working according to the service manual then it should never had reached 188° F.
 
According to what I'm seeing in Torque, bearing in mind that's the same data routed through Cipher, I believe, I can corroborate a running temp of 188-198degF for my 2011 Pro4X Flex CC. I'm curious as to whether or not I have a 170 or 180deg thermostat, though. Even with a 170, temps could reach 195-200deg running here in the southeast in the summer, with the AC on and in traffic, I'd bet. My guess is, if the manual says 176-183deg, that's a 180deg thermo. Makes sense, as its tough on the water pump to pump against the thermostat being closed, so if the truck ran right at or just above that temp, it would open and close a lot, causing the water pump to cavitate a lot and wear out more quickly. Put in a 180deg thermostat, set up the cooling system to keep things between 185-200, and all would be well. Truck warms up, thermo opens, and water flows as it should through the water jacket. This keeps hotspots in the motor to a minimum, too.
 
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Discussion starter · #7 ·
I just drove around town with cipher on and the ac full blast in 99 degree weather and cipher read 194 to 199.4 degrees. My wifes 2002 avalanche has a 186 degree thermostat and the scan gauge in the obd port reads 197 on average in this heat. So an average of 10-15 degree difference from thermostat temperature to actual coolant or engine temperature. I guess the question to ask is what is the best operating temperature range for the VK56?
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Im very pleased with TAP auto. I ordered my koyorad late sunday night and it arrived here today at noon and not a single fin was out of place. That is a 2 and a half day turn around in my book, they have my business!
 
One of my CSF radiators was shipped directly from CSF and it was not usable at all.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
That sounds like the work of fedx. Every package I've ever received from fedx has had damage or been destroyed. Ive got to find a sheet of aluminum tomorrow, once my fans get here Ill start fabricating the shroud unless one of the local shops will cut it for a reasonable price. I still need to figure out the temperature range I want. If I get an adjustable temperature switch its another 150$. The fans come with a 180 on 170 off threaded temperature probe.If our thermostat opens at 180 then the probe I have coming should be right.
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
After installing my koyorad aluminum radiator I drove around a bit and checked the coolant temps with cipher and they stayed around 188-192. It is also about 10 degrees cooler today than when I checked the coolant temps running my stock radiator with 167000 miles on it. I think I will go to a 170 degree thermostat. Does anyone have any recommendations for the best one to use,also do I need any gaskets or anything else for a thermostat swap?
 
Did you bleed the system to make sure you didn't have any air bubbles ? 190° really isn't that hot..
 
MikeClark, do you have to pass emissions? If so, then I would be careful about using a lower temperature thermostat.
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
Did you bleed the system to make sure you didn't have any air bubbles ? 190° really isn't that hot..
I filled the new radiator up, then ran the truck for about 15 minutes with the radiator and overflow tank caps off and topped it off until the gurgling stopped. I read that 177 to 187 is a good operating range and l was going shoot for that unless anyone has had any issues at those temps.
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
MikeClark, do you have to pass emissions? If so, then I would be careful about using a lower temperature thermostat.
No emissions in Florida, if there were I would probably move to a different state ha.
 
I can tell you that during the summer heat here in northern Alabama, with temps in the 95-103deg range, and humidity running 80-100%, my Titan runs 184-205 deg, depending on where I am, how fast I'm going, azd what sort of load I'm putting on the engine. Most of the time it's hovering between 188-200deg and that's running the air wide open and driving 30-50mph in city situations, though not stop and go like Chicago or San Francisco or DFW.

I can't see it needing to be cooler. It runs great and for me, its the rare cold temps I'd worry about, where the thermostat opens up a but early and impedes getting optimum cylinder head temps in a timely manner.
 
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