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Need Suggestions: Amps and Wiring and Battery for KC.

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Justintoxicated

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Ok, so I want to start rwrapping things up with my install.

Still looking for new sub/s in the future but for now the probox will be ok. I knwo it's best to get subs and amp at the same time but I'm broke so it's NOT possible.

1) Wiring. I want to complete the Big 3. What is the easiest way to run 0ga wire from the alternator to the battery? Should I add a second cable leaving the origional in tact? Please advise, I already upgraded the grounds but I'm being told that I really should replace the factory cable as well that runs from alternator to the battery. (I have extra cable just need new 0ga crimps and maybe a tourch to solder them?)

2) I need a new amp/s my eclipse sometimes cuts off in one channel, there is either a loose connection or it is a thermal problem or both. It is too intermitten to solve.

I want some good quality amps that will fit under the drivers seat in the titan. I was looking at,

ARC audio 2100 XXK and 2500 XXK since I can get a good deal on those. However, the 2500 XXK is 18 inches long so I don't think it will fit. I can't get a 1500 XXK they don't make them any more, and it's class D which I have been advised against.

So what matching class A/B amps should I be looking for?

3) Also anyone know which Odyssey battery is the best for the titan? Thanks.
 
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#2 ·
Remove and replace the cable from your battery to your alternator. Why would you not buy class D? Sounds like you have been misinformed. The best battery for the Titan IMO is the Kinetik HC2000. I have had many different batteries and these are my favorite. How much power are you looking for in your amps?
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
P-Dizzle said:
Remove and replace the cable from your battery to your alternator. Why would you not buy class D? Sounds like you have been misinformed. The best battery for the Titan IMO is the Kinetik HC2000. I have had many different batteries and these are my favorite. How much power are you looking for in your amps?
Click to expand...
The Cable from the alternator has an integrated fused diistro block on the end? How do I fix that?

Yea Kinetik is nice but I don't have $400 for a battery. Odyssey will be good enough. http://www.odysseybatteries.com/

Looking for at least 100x2 A/B and I'm thinking to go with about 1000 wats for my sub amp since I'm not srue what I want to do yet.

My ideal setup would be 1 or two in downfire depending on if I can actualy get a 1000 watt A/B amp to fit under my seat...

Either
AA Arsenals or Assassins (if arsenals won't fit, they are not out yet) x2
Arc Audio Arc series 300 x2
DLS Nobelliums 500x2
Also now considering CDT (but they are jsut as expensive as the Nobelliums in which case I'd rather go all DLS) 500x2

Controvery continues on A/B vs D for subs. Maybe it matters maybe it does not.

Some advice I recieved in an email from anonymous who is trying to help me:

"3) I read through around 15-20 comments on CA.com, none of them have a
clue buddy, really. But, some people really cannot hear the difference
so to them it does not exist, that just means their ears function
differently than other peoples:)

4) As I said, D (or T) amps are not that much more efficient, that is
more marketeering that fact. Of course it depends on the quality of the
amps. I ran xxk 1500s, I know how they sound in a system that beat a
prior world champion, then I changed to the 2500 and it was night and
day better:) I have talked this over with some of the best guys in car
audio.

5) I can see about getting the 1500, it is not a bad amp at all, dang
good really, for what it does. OK, you would have to find one somewhere,
none left at Arc.

6) You can believe those that do not know or you can believe somebody
that has real world experience, not arm chair quarterback calling shots
with what they learned on the Internet:)

7) Get a smaller amp? Give me some specs on your sub, maybe we can
figure out an amp that gives it all it really needs or wire the amp for
a lower load, if possible with your sub, I would prefer a half powered
AB amp over double the power in a D amp anyday:):)"

I also started this tread:
http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=214766

I think I will head to another car audio forum and seek more answers to this argument.
 
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Discussion starter · #7 ·
Thanks P-Dizz thats a great price! I'll ave to go with that one over the Odyssey in this case :) I believe they are pretty much the same technology.

The A/B vs D debate continues. Not that I don't trust you or tech, but this guy does alot of installs on a daily basis and is also very reputable across the baords.

How can I solder/connect 0ga to the stock battery terminal with all the integrated fuses? Right now I have the stock terminal connected to my KnuKonceptz terminals with a 0ga short Adapter I made (those connectors were expensive too!) But the Alt to the stock terminal is still the stock cable. I have plenty of exra 0ga left over from my install but I'm not sure what the easiest way to access the Alternator is, or how to connect the crappy integrated stock terminal to the new wire. (should I just run Another wire to the battery and leave the stock setup in place?)

Not too happy with it flopping around but if I flip the battery (to solve that problem) I'm not sure my ground cables will be long enough or not.
 
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Discussion starter · #8 ·
P-Dizzle said:
When you down fire your subs make sure you pick a sub that isn't too deep. Allowing more space between the subs and the floor can only help your system.
Click to expand...
Trying to stay under 5.75 inches. getting anything decent with less mounting depth than that is an issues. I beleive CDT's have the least depth but only by like .2 inches.
 
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#10 ·
Class D amps today sound just as good as Class A/B. Running a Class A/B amp (1000 watts) in the Titan would be STUPID. Efficiency does make a big difference. CA.COM people are stupid. YOU have to remember you dealing with 98% kids on that site......LOL.....Yeah I would believe them too...I wouldn't trust but maybe three people over there. You would be lucky if that amp would even put out 300 watts off the Titan electrical system with running a Class A/B full range too.

I would look into the Sundown amps. Don't buy into one amp sounds better then another.... YOU would never hear a difference.

Class D amps are becoming more and more common. More manufacturers are heading down the road. Having an amp with 90% efficeincy is a good thing.
 
Discussion starter · #12 · (Edited)
Well I dunno, on the class A/B vs D. about 98% of everyone says there is not going to be a noticable difference, yet people who have BOTH seem to feel the A/B is better. Why are all DLS's super high end amps A/B? I'll look into sundown amps. I want something better quality than my Hifonics (which gets hot) or my crappy eclipse amp.

I left my webserver on at home (I keep forgetting that I have a website LOL)
This is the only pic I could find. Imagine the same thing only with 0ga instead of that ****ty little piece of 4ga from Lowes wedged in there.

I do see a 1500XXK Class D Arc Audio on ebay but it's $500 :(

Here is a link to sterio install stuff (some of it) from when my webserver crashed and I had to make a new website on my home PC (Which I never got around to fixing the links)

http://desertrat.servehttp.com:8080/Desert/Titan/SterioInstall/
 

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Discussion starter · #13 ·
lizardking said:
Class D amps today sound just as good as Class A/B. Running a Class A/B amp (1000 watts) in the Titan would be STUPID. Efficiency does make a big difference. CA.COM people are stupid. YOU have to remember you dealing with 98% kids on that site......LOL.....Yeah I would believe them too...I wouldn't trust but maybe three people over there. You would be lucky if that amp would even put out 300 watts off the Titan electrical system with running a Class A/B full range too.

I would look into the Sundown amps. Don't buy into one amp sounds better then another.... YOU would never hear a difference.

Class D amps are becoming more and more common. More manufacturers are heading down the road. Having an amp with 90% efficeincy is a good thing.
Click to expand...
The Sundown 100x2 looks really nice, But, the 1500D is a tad too long to fit under the seat I believe. (17 inches long?)
http://www.sundownaudio.com/
 
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#14 ·
98% kids!!! DLS sells Class A/B why does Genesis sell Class D? It comes down to efficeincy and the ability to make power without needing 300amps on tap. Why is the best sub amp on the planet Zapco C2K 9.0 a Class D? POWER.... It's like I said Companies are developing more and more Class D ICE amps..... Trust me!! Buy a Class D if you plan to run some serious power.
 
#17 ·
lizardking said:
Those Alpine PDX amps got good reviews in Caraudomag. Those would fit under the seat.
Click to expand...
A buddy of mine that works at amp of america has those amps and swears by them. i have never been an alpine fan. Just a personal thing.
 
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#20 ·
I ran the XXK2500 for my subs and then switched to the Class D Sundown......guess what? No difference in sound and my electrical system thanks me for it. People think Damping Factor and Slew Rate a big deal....and they don't matter with todays amps.

Edit: As a matter of fact my subs sound better with the Class D then the Class A/B.....must be pyschoacoustics..
 
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Justintoxicated
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