P-Dizzle said:
How does the door handle the weight? I think we will see more people going this route.
I just got done fixing the rattles in the other (passenger) door. I found quite a few in there, but nothing some foam any dynomat couldn't fix.
The doors seem to handle the weight fine, they seem to shut with the same amount of force as before, I can't even tell there is any added weight in there. The doors are so short that I can't imagine them getting bad at twice the weight.
t22a80 said:
I was thinking about adding a pair of the ES06+ to the rear door.
http://www.cdtaudio.com/new_breed_drivers.htm
I think it would take a lot less work. It woudlnt be the same output but the midbass is supposed to be killer with these!
As far as the CDTs in the rear door, I agree with Justintoxicated, that it would likely screw up the imaging. but if you want to try it it would be easier since they only have a 3.75 mounting depth. I figured that the most you could depth you could get out of the door, including bringing the driver out 1" was 5.25".
Right behind where the speaker is mounted is a 1.5" brace that runs across the length of the door so you
could get another inch and a half of depth if you dropped the speaker 1" lower, but then it probably won't clear the door panel. My installer tried this first, dropped the L7 1" and made an all wood box, but then when it time to put the panel back on it wouldn't clear the woofer.
Justintoxicated - Most of the wall has one layer of edead v1se, the section that the amps are mounted to however is over the vent where I did not edead because the wall jutts out around the vent and I wanted a firm surface to secure that board too. You see, I did my rear wall in two parts, each taking up approx half of the wall, on the drivers side I edeaded the whole thing, put the board on and used the factory bolts to secure the board. On the passenger side however there were no factory bolts so I edeaded most of it, except the sections that jutted out (like the vent area) not because I was worried about depth, but because I wanted to silicone the boards to these areas. Then I made my own vents in the board using some barn/shed/garage? tin vent thing I found at menards (home depot), then siliconed the board on.
You hit the nail on the head with the reason I went with L7s. They had the most output I could find in a 4.75" depth. There were quite a few drivers I could fit in there but since I honestly can't tell much difference between a subwoofers SQ I figured I would go with the one with most output. The square L7 having the extra surface area fit the bill for me. Also since our factory grill is square I figured it would fit better
The l7s are 4.75" deep and with only 5.25 there wasn't enough room for an all wood box, so we had to make 5 of the sides of the box wood, and the back in 1/4" fiberglass.
Here are some more pics of the sub with the door panel on.