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I was thinking about adding a pair of the ES06+ to the rear door.

http://www.cdtaudio.com/new_breed_drivers.htm

I think it would take a lot less work. It woudlnt be the same output but the midbass is supposed to be killer with these!
 
xworrallx said:
Great set up, where did you mount the amp?
Look at post #12, he shows us pics of where the amps are! :huh: :upsidedow


Grunge, I love the setup! You really have me thinking about going this route now!
 
NICEEEEEEEEEE .. one question though .. can you still roll down the windows with that set up or are they just stuck in the up position from now on ? looks clean man ..

Chris
 
Maverick_Titan said:
NICEEEEEEEEEE .. one question though .. can you still roll down the windows with that set up or are they just stuck in the up position from now on ? looks clean man ..

Chris
You can't roll down the rear windows in a KC! :upsidedow
 
ahh ok .. i got a CC and was just curious.. never knew that about the KC's ... so i'm guessin though if i did that.. i wouldn't be able to roll em' down anymore .. not that i really ever have anyone back there .. haha.. either way .. i like the setup ..

Chris
 
t22a80 said:
I was thinking about adding a pair of the ES06+ to the rear door.

http://www.cdtaudio.com/new_breed_drivers.htm

I think it would take a lot less work. It woudlnt be the same output but the midbass is supposed to be killer with these!
If you want them for midbass though I would put them in the front doors otherwise you can screw up your imaging I guess. (Or so I researched a long time ago when I was wanting to put midbass drivers in my rear doors instead of coax)

Kellyj00 I'm still wondering the same thing about his amps lol he did a REAL nice job there! Grunge311, how much sound deadening do you have on your rear wall? I think that is why my amps stick out more but I don't know for sure.

I think you did a excelent Job with this Grunge, I'm not an L7 fan but I think they would deliver the most bass out of many driver choices that you could fit in the rear doors :) Nice choice there. What is the mounting depth on those anyways? I know AA is coming out with some KILLER 8" drivers and TC sounds is back to work on SMT (not sure if an 8" version will be released though)
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
P-Dizzle said:
How does the door handle the weight? I think we will see more people going this route.

I just got done fixing the rattles in the other (passenger) door. I found quite a few in there, but nothing some foam any dynomat couldn't fix.

The doors seem to handle the weight fine, they seem to shut with the same amount of force as before, I can't even tell there is any added weight in there. The doors are so short that I can't imagine them getting bad at twice the weight.

t22a80 said:
I was thinking about adding a pair of the ES06+ to the rear door.

http://www.cdtaudio.com/new_breed_drivers.htm

I think it would take a lot less work. It woudlnt be the same output but the midbass is supposed to be killer with these!
As far as the CDTs in the rear door, I agree with Justintoxicated, that it would likely screw up the imaging. but if you want to try it it would be easier since they only have a 3.75 mounting depth. I figured that the most you could depth you could get out of the door, including bringing the driver out 1" was 5.25".
Right behind where the speaker is mounted is a 1.5" brace that runs across the length of the door so you could get another inch and a half of depth if you dropped the speaker 1" lower, but then it probably won't clear the door panel. My installer tried this first, dropped the L7 1" and made an all wood box, but then when it time to put the panel back on it wouldn't clear the woofer.

Justintoxicated - Most of the wall has one layer of edead v1se, the section that the amps are mounted to however is over the vent where I did not edead because the wall jutts out around the vent and I wanted a firm surface to secure that board too. You see, I did my rear wall in two parts, each taking up approx half of the wall, on the drivers side I edeaded the whole thing, put the board on and used the factory bolts to secure the board. On the passenger side however there were no factory bolts so I edeaded most of it, except the sections that jutted out (like the vent area) not because I was worried about depth, but because I wanted to silicone the boards to these areas. Then I made my own vents in the board using some barn/shed/garage? tin vent thing I found at menards (home depot), then siliconed the board on.

You hit the nail on the head with the reason I went with L7s. They had the most output I could find in a 4.75" depth. There were quite a few drivers I could fit in there but since I honestly can't tell much difference between a subwoofers SQ I figured I would go with the one with most output. The square L7 having the extra surface area fit the bill for me. Also since our factory grill is square I figured it would fit better :)

The l7s are 4.75" deep and with only 5.25 there wasn't enough room for an all wood box, so we had to make 5 of the sides of the box wood, and the back in 1/4" fiberglass.


Here are some more pics of the sub with the door panel on.
 

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What grills?? yah what about grills? what will you do about that?

Those are cool dogs...
 
There you go James, more special projects!! :)
 
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