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whumply

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I just looked at one tonight. It drives nicely and no obvious problems jumped out at me. However, there are a few faults and codes that I'd like opinions/information on before we make the leap, and input as to an appropriate price would be welcome too.

No CEL, but an airbag dash light is flashing and I read it out as a B1054 error - driver airbag module open. This error returned after clearing the codes, so it looks real.

We took it for a spin around the block after clearing the codes, and none of the others returned (right away) and might have been transient. Do any of these sound serious enough to avoid this truck?

TCM: ROM P1705 - I haven't a clue what this means, unless it's telling me that the ROM failed its checksum or similar (I'm an EE who does embedded systems)
TCM: First Braking P1731 - I have no idea what this is, and it makes me more nervous than the other one. Can anyone explain?
ECM: Evaporative Emissions P0448 - I assume this is just one of those annoying and relatively unimportant things from an overly-complicated evap system.
ECM: Throttle (position sensor?) P2119 - Maybe a little out of calibration?

These things don't come up for sale very often around here at present, so if we want it we'll have to move fast tomorrow. They're asking $4800 CAD, which is $3600 USD.

What say you all?
 
#2 ·
I paid $13k for my 2008 2 years ago which was about typical for what it was. They must be allowing quite a bit for the indicated repairs which is kind of a red flag in my book. If they are allowing that much slack then they might not be allowing quite enough.....intentionally. KWIM?
 
#3 ·
What does NADA place the value at for the specific model and mileage? www.nadaguides.com

What does Carfax say about the vehicle. Been in a wreck?

If you are an EE, you obviously can afford more, but if you are planning to take it on as a project truck then I would at least take it to a body shop and a mechanic and pay for a professional opinion, or walk away.
 
Discussion starter · #4 · (Edited)
The seller's story is that he runs a detailing shop that does work for nearby dealers, and he snags good trade-ins from those dealers to resell. Carfax is clean - one owner, no accidents, appears to be well-maintained, etc. Mileage a little on the high side for its age - 275k km - so that may be a factor. Fwiw, I've never used nadaguides before and find its layout and approach a little counterintuitive, but even so this truck is a few grand below their low end.

(I must say the "you are an EE, you obviously can afford more" comment is out of line, as my education, skills, and experience do not necessarily reflect my present employment or finances. I've met Ph.D. EEs who were on welfare thanks to the sorry state of the industry and economy around here for such people. Regardless, I jam econo.)

Not looking in any way for a project. Need a new (that is, relative to our '91 4x4 Dakota beater) truck that will Just Work and not give me any surprises, and this is definitely at the top end of what we can spend.

So I was really hoping for specific comments on the reported codes, especially the transmission one.

[edit]

Though the price sounds a little TGTBT, it's looking like this is just the state of the market around here. I'm near Calgary; an '08 was just listed by an Edmonton (3 hours north) dealer for a couple hundred bucks more than this one. May be useful to note that the economy in this province has been severely depressed for years now thanks to low oil and natural gas prices, and pickups comprise a much higher than average percentage of vehicle ownership than in the rest of the country (keywords: rural, farming, ranching, oil, gas, industrial, conservative, *******). So maybe prices here for trucks are simply significantly lower than average.
 
#6 ·
The first 2 codes are serious, the second 2 codes are not as serious but should be taken care of. The first two are about your Trans Control Module being messed up and not able to control the transmission properly. The First Braking code is engine braking is not working correctly. The ROM code looks like it's possibly a generic code that is linked to the P1731 code. Don't buy that truck unless all the codes are taken care of. Your trans drops out of your truck on a bad engine brake and that $4800CAD truck just went up to $9-10kCAD.
 
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#7 ·
"Your trans drops out of your truck on a bad engine brake and that $4800CAD truck just went up to $9-10kCAD."

Yup. It can get expensive quickly, even if it "only" requires replacing / programming a valve body w/ TCM.
 
#9 ·
whumply said:
The seller's story is that he runs a detailing shop that does work for nearby dealers, and he snags good trade-ins from those dealers to resell. Carfax is clean - one owner, no accidents, appears to be well-maintained, etc. Mileage a little on the high side for its age - 275k km - so that may be a factor. Fwiw, I've never used nadaguides before and find its layout and approach a little counterintuitive, but even so this truck is a few grand below their low end.

(I must say the "you are an EE, you obviously can afford more" comment is out of line, as my education, skills, and experience do not necessarily reflect my present employment or finances. I've met Ph.D. EEs who were on welfare thanks to the sorry state of the industry and economy around here for such people. Regardless, I jam econo.)

Not looking in any way for a project. Need a new (that is, relative to our '91 4x4 Dakota beater) truck that will Just Work and not give me any surprises, and this is definitely at the top end of what we can spend.

So I was really hoping for specific comments on the reported codes, especially the transmission one.

[edit]

Though the price sounds a little TGTBT, it's looking like this is just the state of the market around here. I'm near Calgary; an '08 was just listed by an Edmonton (3 hours north) dealer for a couple hundred bucks more than this one. May be useful to note that the economy in this province has been severely depressed for years now thanks to low oil and natural gas prices, and pickups comprise a much higher than average percentage of vehicle ownership than in the rest of the country (keywords: rural, farming, ranching, oil, gas, industrial, conservative, *******). So maybe prices here for trucks are simply significantly lower than average.
Click to expand...
If you are an EE who does embedded systems but are not earning up to your potential, why aren't you moving to where the jobs are? In the states you can make close to $100,000 a year if you are good. But that is besides the point of your questions.

When it comes to used vehicles, if you can't afford to fix everything that may crop up with a high mileage used vehicle throwing codes, then you can't afford the vehicle. Go look at the one in Edmonton.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
twowheeladdict said:
If you are an EE who does embedded systems but are not earning up to your potential, why aren't you moving to where the jobs are? In the states you can make close to $100,000 a year if you are good. But that is besides the point of your questions.
Click to expand...
Because life is complicated and I'm not a lone wolf who can simply pull up stakes and relocate. Let's leave it at that.

When it comes to used vehicles, if you can't afford to fix everything that may crop up with a high mileage used vehicle throwing codes, then you can't afford the vehicle. Go look at the one in Edmonton.
Click to expand...
That's too much driving for something that isn't enough of a sure thing.

We opted for a reasonably safe path and took it to an independent inspection shop that we trust. Those codes haven't resurfaced yet (and it drives well), so they may have been transient errors not worth basing a decision on - though I'll keep an eye on things. The stuff that the inspection turned up was mostly front end - it needs a wheel bearing and tie rod ends and the steering rack is a little leaky and has a bad boot. Also needs a couple of rear shocks and a rear axle vent. And the battery, which is rated at 700CCA, is testing at only 350, so it's possible that the errors previously reported were due to power supply brownout. So we snagged it for $4000 CAD, and I think the risk is acceptable. Time will tell.

In the meantime, can anyone direct me to the owner's manual (it came without one) and any available TSMs? I picked up the Haynes manual en route home as a rough starting point, but you know how those things are - not the best to start with and getting thinner and less useful by the year.
 
#11 ·
Service Manual: https://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Titan/2008_Titan/

"mostly front end - it needs a wheel bearing" It's integrated and called a hub.

"Also needs a couple of rear shocks" Bilstein 5100s are good. It seems like the upper shock bolt likes to sieze. I had to cut two of them off.

"and a rear axle vent." I would recommend the hose vent mod. The check valve tends to plug and take out the rear axle seals.

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"And the battery" A sealed battery that doesn't vent acid fumes on the connectors, cables and fusible link holder is a good thing. I have an 810 CCA AGM Odyssey.
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
bestatchess said:
Service Manual: https://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Titan/2008_Titan/
Click to expand...
https://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Titan/2008_Titan/

Excellent - thanks very much. Is there an owner's manual archive anywhere?

"mostly front end - it needs a wheel bearing" It's integrated and called a hub.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I discovered that pretty quickly. It needs a bearing but obviously will get a hub.

"Also needs a couple of rear shocks" Bilstein 5100s are good. It seems like the upper shock bolt likes to sieze. I had to cut two of them off.
Click to expand...
I hate it when that happens. Looks like access up there isn't bad, though.

"and a rear axle vent." I would recommend the hose vent mod. The check valve tends to plug and take out the rear axle seals.
Click to expand...
That's the case - it's plugged and I want to avoid blown seals. I'll search here for that mod.

"And the battery" A sealed battery that doesn't vent acid fumes on the connectors, cables and fusible link holder is a good thing. I have an 810 CCA AGM Odyssey.
Click to expand...
And, iIrc, sealed batteries are pretty pricey and I have a number of cars to do last-minute repairs to before winter settles in earnest, but I'll look into it.
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
Okay, I downloaded the lot and have sorted them out.

Referring to the Quick Reference Index, it's obvious that the sections in white (e.g. the HYBRID section) aren't part of this manual. But there's one other section that should be there, but is missing: SR - SRS Airbag.

Does anyone have it?
 
#16 ·
If the codes are (hopefully) resolved, then those items you listed aren't a big deal. I would highly recommend a sealed battery. You don't have to get an Optima or anything excessively expensive. My truck ate batteries every 1-1.5 years until I just got a basic Autocraft or something like that sealed battery. Going on 4+ years now, and it still cranks right up. No joke, my truck is 11 years old and this is at least my 6th battery.
 
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