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Bigcountry78

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2009 Crew Cab SE, 4x4, HMC.
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213 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
Has anyone tried these? Just confirmed today that both of my manifolds are cracked. I know, I know, headers and b pipes from Cajun. But I just bought the truck in February, not looking to dump 2k into exhaust for a 10k truck. I can get a set of Evan Fischer’s for 475 delivered, and do the work myself. I just want OE equipment, not looking to deal with tuning and all that mess.
 
Did you read the reviews? LMAO. No thanks.

Absolute Garbage. Was very displeased with product. So displeased that it's sitting in my shed as a paperweight. Not one of the bolt holes line up, angles of the welds at off. My 13 year old could have welded this product better. That's my last time ordering.
 
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Did you read the reviews? LMAO. No thanks.

Absolute Garbage. Was very displeased with product. So displeased that it's sitting in my shed as a paperweight. Not one of the bolt holes line up, angles of the welds at off. My 13 year old could have welded this product better. That's my last time ordering.
Ouch - that just about sums it up...
 
Hey, it comes with a 5 year/50,000 mile warranty! 😉
That’s a lot of work for a subpar product based on what I’ve read and seen as well. You don’t want to do that job every year, trust me.
 
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Discussion starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the replies. Ok, so those aren’t great. I didn’t see any reviews really. Yea this ain’t a job I really want to do once a year. Currently have the passenger tire and fender liner out, trying to get the heat shield off to see where it’s cracked. Wondering if I can get it off and get it welded, and maybe weld in some reinforcement. Yea, it’s a lot of work, but my buddy will weld it for free so I’m only out time.
 
Pretty sure you'd be better off with Evan Williams than Evan Fischer.

In all seriousness, you could just do headers and a tune, and upgrade your b-pipes later, if money is tight. That would only be close to $1k. Since you just bought the truck for $10k, I'm assuming it is in fairly good shape and your plan was/is to keep it a good while. Doing this job one time is more than enough.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Pretty sure you'd be better off with Evan Williams than Evan Fischer.

In all seriousness, you could just do headers and a tune, and upgrade your b-pipes later, if money is tight. That would only be close to $1k. Since you just bought the truck for $10k, I'm assuming it is in fairly good shape and your plan was/is to keep it a good while. Doing this job one time is more than enough.
It is a 9 out of 10 interior and exterior. Only issues were a TPMS sensor, the clock ring, and now the manifolds. The sensor and clock ring have been replaced. And yes, I plan to keep this truck until the wheels fall off.
 
Discussion starter · #8 · (Edited)
Working my way through the tear down. Both tires and fender liners off/out. Skid plate is off. I’m going to let all the bolts soak for a couple days. May put a propane torch on them too. I just have to break them loose, loosen the motor mounts and lift the motor to get them out. Also, I’d like to find the fool responsible for the heat shields and beat him with one. Just as a side note.
 
I just did the full job (headers, b-pipes and UpRev tuning) on my own $10K, 2012 Titan. I looked at every possible way to trim a few bucks off the job, but finally decided to just do it right and be done once and for all. I'm glad I did! That is definitely not a job I want to do frequently (like ever again!). In the end, I have the OEM POS manifolds gone, and new headers and b-pipes that I'm confident will last the remaining life of the truck. Sometimes the old saw "buy once, cry once" really is the best way to go.
 
Go with Cajun Pipes you will be glad you did.
 
The Cajun b pipe with cajun tuning(uprev) really is one of the best mods for the Titan. Yeah,it is a little work,but most good mods are.i have turned wrenches all my life and this really isn't that bad.extremely happy with cajun b pipes ,jba headers and exhaust and uprev tune.....really got some other local Titan owners wanting to do this now ..lol..
 
Joe is right on this one. He's is also a hell of a tuner got my truck correct with everything I asked him to do. Side note if you are 4wd it doesn't hurt to drop the front axle.
 
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I tried after market replacements and they only lasted 30k, not just a crack, but chunks falling out. The originals just had one crack each so I welded them up and put them back on and got another 150k out of them -with NO more cracks. Those cats finally clogged up though and wouldn't pass emissions with about 260k total on them. I think I'll just steal the cats off the 'After Markets' and put them on the OEM manifolds now. If you do it yourself like I did twice, you'll need a torch to heat the manifold nuts to get them loose and you'll need every u-joint, wobble head, extension and cuss word in your tool box. Also the dip stick is just pushed into the block with an o-ring seal and just pulls out BUT first you must clean ALL the sand and crap out that's in the hole and lube it with WD or something. Good Luck.
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
I ended up with a set of aftermarkets from rock auto. They came In yesterday and look to be well built, with several gussets welded around the outside for support. I’m hopeful these will work, but I’ll be holding onto my old ones and welding them up just in case. I’ll also be taking on this project in my driveway tomorrow morning. My bolts aren’t excessively rusted, but I’ve been letting them soak in PB blaster since last Friday so hopefully it’ll go relatively easily. I’ll also be looking into adding a support for the cat, maybe that’ll help them last.
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
Well, about halfway done removing the old manifolds. I’ve got the passenger side loose, just got to get that stupid dipstick tube out and it’ll be ready to pull out. I’m about half and half on the nuts coming off vs the studs backing out. Anyone else experienced this? Can I just screw the studs back in? Or do I need to take the nuts off, thread the studs back in, and then put the nuts on?
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
I have hit a wall. I have all nuts off save for three on the driver side. And two of those have rounded off. So I went and bought a set of the external torx bits to remove the stud. Well, those rounded off too. I’m out of ideas. I also can’t get the dipstick out to save my life. My truck may have become a permanent lawn ornament.
 
Oh man. That's sucks. Can you get a nut splitter on the rounded ones? Or maybe just cut them with a Dremel?

I always just thread them back in with the nuts on them
 
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