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mthomasinla

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
2008 Titan SE driver window works sometimes. Then sometimes it doesn't. let's say, for instance, I roll the window down halfway (only sometimes) then it will not roll back up. I can grab the window by my hand and try to pull it up. There will be about 1/4 inch of play. I can either pull it up until it stops or push it down until it stops. Then the switch will work. But the problem is getting progressively worse. This morning it took me about 5 minutes of messing with it until I got it to roll up. But then again I might go out there right now and it will work perfectly.
I am not a novice mechanic but I am not a master mechanic either. Someone, please help me diagnose this before I take it apart. Or if anyone has had this problem, what did you do to fix this bug?
 
My son 's Mazda does that too but his clicks when Ilit stops. I believe his is the teeth on the motor, or the teeth on the lift belt/drive assy are worn off in the spots where it stops and gets stuck.


But, you can take you window switch out and clean it really well to see if that helps. Sometimes the contacts in window switches get burn marks which will prevent good connections without lots of mashing of the button.

If the switch is not the problem, pull the door panel and run the window up and down and watch the lift mechanism teeth for flat spots or worn spots. That would be my other thought for your issue
 
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Welcome to the site, also
 
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That good info /\
 
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Yep probably need a new window motor assembly. I replaced my driver's one last year.

When you buy a new one be sure you choose a reputable company because I've heard the cheaper ones don't last
 
Sometimes it's like that.

On my older bmws, I would go to the junkyard and get oem motors from other bmws. Turns out they used the same motors on lots of models so it was cheap and easy. Maybe Nissan does too?
 
Having just changed out the regulator and motor on my 2011 driver's door, I'll chime in. Before you go changing motors or regulators, grab a tube of Sil-Glyde Lubricating Compound and lube your window channels. Then pull the door panel and lube your regulator tracks. I think if I'd done that over the years I'd have saved having to replace the motor. I'll be pulling the other four door panels and lubricating everything to help my slow motors out in an effort not to have to replace them all in the near future.

Also, if you change, grab the FSM and follow the procedure for the limit switch reset. You have to do it prior to install, so I'm saving you removing/replacing the regulator a second time to get the limit switch figured out.

Beyond that, I went with the TYC unit, and quality appears to be on par with OEM. Wasn't cheap, though, at $156 tax and shipping included. Thus my new effort to lubricate everything else. Of note - no fraying of my cables was found, which surprised me. Saved my OEM regulator and will just do a motor swap on it next time to save some coin.
 
Great info dubyam, thank you. I have sprayed all the channels with silicone spray lube when I had bought the truck and that seemed to help. I didn't pull the door panels and lube the tracks. I'll give that a shot, it's odd sometimes the window works fine and other it will barely roll back up on its own.
 
If the weaker roll up generally happens when it's cold, could be motor. That's how mine started.
 
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Discussion starter · #14 ·
Thank you to everyone that has posted. It is all great information.😁 This weekend, I will start tackling this issue. I will report back with what I find and do. I will start by testing the switches and motor with an electronic multi-tester, then I will grease the tracks before buying anything and replacing it. I will report back on greasing the tracks.
After testing the switches and motor, I will come back here with my findings and ask what you guys think about what I have done and found.
The fact that it works perfect sometimes and then sometimes it does not work at all is what is confusing. Cleaning the switches may be all it needs. So, since I will have the switch box out I will clean it at that time.
Thank you again cheers to all that has replied.:cool:
 
Tested the window switches yesterday, both back windows roll up fine while using the individual switches on the rear doors. The rear windows roll up slow, passenger side super slow when using the master switch on the driver door.

When I get some time I'll pull the master switch out and see what I find, perhaps it needs a good cleaning or replacement.
 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
OK, I just got through testing everything on the window. As I said before, there is a little play in the window when it is not rolled to the top. Take the slack out and it works fine. See the video I uploaded. I tested the switch. As it is supposed to, I get -12 and +12 volts from the switch. The motor seems just a little weak but it is working fine. Please tell me what you guys think after watching my video. 2008 Nissan Tatan window problem
 
Did you check the attachment point of the window to the track? Also could be the anti pitch needs adjusted? I'm not sure to be honest without being their.



I played with my rear windows today. From driver switch all the way rolled down, passenger side takes 18 seconds to roll up, driver side takes 14 secs roughly. From rear door switches passenger side takes 15.5 secs and driver side about 12 seconds.

I tore the rear door panels, and vapor barriers off. I then lubed windows roll up channels, the tracks and motor connection points as outlined in the manual. (Thank you @dubyam)

Now from the driver switch both sides independently take 10 secs each to run up from full open position. From the rear door switches they take roughly 7 secs from fully open per each side. I can live with that.
 
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