I have a 05 Titan and I’ve owned for around 6 years now and since I bought it my abs,slip,and service engine soon lights have been on and 4x4 will not engage I’ve had it at multiple shops ( not very good ones as I found out) and had a transfer case put on and still nothing I’ve checked brake fluid and I have all new rotors and brakes, any ideas?
Abs/slip lights
Matthew98
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
I have a 05 Titan and I’ve owned for around 6 years now and since I bought it my abs,slip,and service engine soon lights have been on and 4x4 will not engage I’ve had it at multiple shops ( not very good ones as I found out) and had a transfer case put on and still nothing I’ve checked brake fluid and I have all new rotors and brakes, any ideas?
First, I'd ask what codes are showing up when you scan it? That will give you far better Intel as to what's wrong than us guessing. My first guess, however, would be either wheel speed sensors or perhaps an exploded e-brake took out your rear abs tone ring. Hopefully the former.
If you don't have a code reader, stop at just about any national chain parts store and they'll scan it for you for free.
If you don't have a code reader, stop at just about any national chain parts store and they'll scan it for you for free.
I have no codes at all and I checked all my wheel sensors and they look fine. Of course they could’ve just quit but both front sensors are brand new
If all those lights are on its because of malfunctions in the system that are tripping codes for those said malfunctions.
It was in a shop about a week ago getting a new fuel pump, and when they had it I had them do a extensive diagnosis and the only 2 codes that came up was the fuel system and evap but they told me both were fixed and no codes came back up
The shop should have had a good scanner but the less expensive code readers typically won't read ABS codes, only engine codes. If the ABS light is on, there will be a code I'm sure.
On my 05 Dodge Magnum after replacing the the turn signal switch (multi-function switch) and the clock spring I had an ESP code that my code reader wouldn't read. But, my Superchips programmer would read it. That problem turned out to only need an adjustment on the clock spring position.
On my 05 Dodge Magnum after replacing the the turn signal switch (multi-function switch) and the clock spring I had an ESP code that my code reader wouldn't read. But, my Superchips programmer would read it. That problem turned out to only need an adjustment on the clock spring position.
I’m not arguing man, I agree there should be a code thrown for whatever is causing the lights but I’m just going off what I’m told. I’m not a mechanic but would it be worth getting my own reader? If I should what are some of the good ones you would recommend?
My first idea would be to find a reputable and competent shop (which the one you went to doesn't qualify by definition of telling you "no codes" for your ABS). Have said competent shop scan and review codes with you so you can make wise decisions and not just toss parts at it.
As I said above, my first guess would be wheel sensors and my second guess would be the ton rings inside your rear e-brake area. At this point, I'd be pulling the rear discs to visually verify the situation back there (it's easy and requires only hand tools). Out of curiosity, does your e-brake work?
If it's neither of the things I listed, it gets significantly more complicated. But again, you have codes in the system which need to be read to properly diagnose what your truck has been trying to tell you for years.
And while owning your own code reader is good, one that reads ABS and Air Bag codes will cost as much or more than a scan by a competent shop. It seems a competent shop might be a good help in this.
As I said above, my first guess would be wheel sensors and my second guess would be the ton rings inside your rear e-brake area. At this point, I'd be pulling the rear discs to visually verify the situation back there (it's easy and requires only hand tools). Out of curiosity, does your e-brake work?
If it's neither of the things I listed, it gets significantly more complicated. But again, you have codes in the system which need to be read to properly diagnose what your truck has been trying to tell you for years.
And while owning your own code reader is good, one that reads ABS and Air Bag codes will cost as much or more than a scan by a competent shop. It seems a competent shop might be a good help in this.
Thank you I actually just changed my rear brakes and rotors yesterday and found my passenger side e brake was bad. Looking for new one now 👍🏻
Since you found that, carefully check the tone ring on both sides. If any of the teeth are chipped/broken, that's your issue. The solution is to replace the axle shaft (because that's the cheapest/easiest way to get a new tone ring).
At this time I don't have a code reader that will read ABS codes. I had Superchips programmers for my old F150 and Dodge Magnum that would also read ABS codes. But a quick search for "ABS code readers" it appears that they might cost around $100. If you can swing it, I highly recommend you get one. I'm not familiar with Forscan but that might be an option.
Joined
·
4 Posts
I went and got a code reader and it was saying rear wheel sensors so I replaced both and now it’s just saying the left sensor I made my way all the way up the harness and it looks good so I’m not sure if I got a bad sensor or if it’s something else really driving me crazy
It's not uncommon for the wires on the speed sensors to come apart inside where you can't see the break. especially if you're lifted. I would 1. make sure it's plugged in good, then 2. if it is, exchange it from where ever you got it. "I replaced it and it's still showing LR wheel sensor".
If you have a multimeter you can always unplug it and check continuity and resistance in the sensor. I'm not sure what the resistance is supposed to be, you'd have to consult the FSM.
If you have a multimeter you can always unplug it and check continuity and resistance in the sensor. I'm not sure what the resistance is supposed to be, you'd have to consult the FSM.
okay thanks for the info
Joined
·
4 Posts
Alright guys sorry i was listening to the mechanics and believing them but I went got a obd2 scanner and I have a code for left rear abs sensor, I’ve changed it and still nothing and I just replaced the bearing and tone Ring today still nothing. I’ve changed everything I’ve seen in videos and other threads call for and still nothing.Anyone have any ideas, it would be much appreciated
Joined
·
4 Posts
Yeah I’ve been checking the harness and I’ve had to fix a few spots but I’m not taking thisI payed over a grand the day I got this truck to have it re wired and they did a terrible job. The picture is the abs sensor the shop put on they didn’t heat shrink it, crimp, or solder, it was these wires twisted together(barely) and 2 maybe 3 wraps of either medical tape or painters tape I couldn’t tell. I had zero interest in working on vehicles then so I didn’t check it out, I just got a sudden urge like a year ago to learn. My truck has way to many miles and run too well to throw money at someone that’s gonna half as everything
![Image]()
Joined
·
4 Posts
Sorry to keep posting about it but it’s my first winter this far north and I’ve spent days trying to fix it I have gotten rid of check engine,brake and 4wd lights that had been on for years, and I did buy a pretty good obd2 and it does tell me if there are any breaks in the wiring harness(I unplugged the abs sensor and it said break in harness plugged back up and that code went away now the only code I have now is left rear sensor 1
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
