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I used a slide hammer from the other side and pulled the whole axle assembly out out of the hub. Yours looks weird. must be a 2nd gen thing. older M226 didn't have any sort of lock nut or whatever you're talking about.. Just the 4 bolts / nuts in the axle cradle. and $1800 is insane considering axle shafts are like $500 and take about 45 minutes to change out.
 
Finally had some time to unleash some real google fu. I found several places that will sell you the axle shaft assembly (with the bearings and everything already assembled on it) for anywhere in the $800-1100 range depending on which diff you have (e-locker or open diff) and which side (driver or passenger). In as much as these are easy to swap when you buy the assembled product, you could in theory swap both for the price of just one axle from the dealership...

Here are some links (and I have zero affiliation with any of these so do your homework before you give them money):


For reference, the part numbers for either style are listed at the two links from Z1 Offroad.
 
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It's getting harder to get individual pieces of some assemblies. My last job (now retired) we had 4 Sprinter vans, and the rear axle bearing comes in a complete axle assembly for about $1200 on the single wheel units. On the dually you can buy the bearing on it's own for about $25. I just about :poop: when the service manager at the independant garage we used told me that.
Just another reason to stay the H E double toothpicks away from MB & Chrysler.
 
Has anyone been able to get this done at home. That locknut does not want to come off.
The dealer makes more money and gets your truck out of the shop faster to free up the service bay by selling you a new assembly, the “mechanic” also doesn’t get greasy. I did my m226 both sides, bearings and seals in my driveway. The bearings alone were about $85 each from the dealer and they are Timken bearings which are quality ones.
a machine shop likely can do it for you, if you’re unable to.

Clint
 
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There's a few different ways to get that sleeve off. Unless you have a puller or a press with a long enough throw or reach, however you want to look at it, you're going to need to cut it more than likely. I used my mill to cut through it until it cracked, then slid them off. A grinder works also, but you need to be careful not to damage the axle. Like Clint said above, the Bearings & seals are readily available from the dealership or several other sources. I ordered mine from Rockauto. I think both sides were under $100 total. That sleeve isn't a super tight press fit, so heating it might give you enough to pull it off, but I didn't have a heat source to get it hot enough to expand enough for it to slip off. Also, the bearing race is a slight press fit and will need to be dealt with the same way. It's not a terrible job, but without the tools to do it, could turn into a bit of a nightmare.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
There's a few different ways to get that sleeve off. Unless you have a puller or a press with a long enough throw or reach, however you want to look at it, you're going to need to cut it more than likely. I used my mill to cut through it until it cracked, then slid them off. A grinder works also, but you need to be careful not to damage the axle. Like Clint said above, the Bearings & seals are readily available from the dealership or several other sources. I ordered mine from Rockauto. I think both sides were under $100 total. That sleeve isn't a super tight press fit, so heating it might give you enough to pull it off, but I didn't have a heat source to get it hot enough to expand enough for it to slip off. Also, the bearing race is a slight press fit and will need to be dealt with the same way. It's not a terrible job, but without the tools to do it, could turn into a bit of a nightmare.
Thanks for the info. Was yours second gen?
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Finally had some time to unleash some real google fu. I found several places that will sell you the axle shaft assembly (with the bearings and everything already assembled on it) for anywhere in the $800-1100 range depending on which diff you have (e-locker or open diff) and which side (driver or passenger). In as much as these are easy to swap when you buy the assembled product, you could in theory swap both for the price of just one axle from the dealership...

Here are some links (and I have zero affiliation with any of these so do your homework before you give them money):


For reference, the part numbers for either style are listed at the two links from Z1 Offroad.
Thank you for the info. Im gonna give the disassemble another try since i might just end up ordering the whole thing any way.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
It's getting harder to get individual pieces of some assemblies. My last job (now retired) we had 4 Sprinter vans, and the rear axle bearing comes in a complete axle assembly for about $1200 on the single wheel units. On the dually you can buy the bearing on it's own for about $25. I just about :poop: when the service manager at the independant garage we used told me that.
Just another reason to stay the H E double toothpicks away from MB & Chrysler.
Yeah do you think the whole thing will come out if i bolt it back on the axle and use a slide. then i ccan remove the locknut when its out?
Im worried the race wont come out or is bound up on a lip. I know theres some kind of seal inside cause i can see a spring in there.
 
When my rear axle was damaged in an accident, body shop had to buy the entire axle. To be considered OEM and warrantied, that's how Nissan does it. Only the left side was damaged, but they had to replace the entire axle. If anyone could go cheap, the insurance company and body shop would be able to.
 
The dealer makes more money and gets your truck out of the shop faster to free up the service bay by selling you a new assembly, the “mechanic” also doesn’t get greasy. I did my m226 both sides, bearings and seals in my driveway. The bearings alone were about $85 each from the dealer and they are Timken bearings which are quality ones.
a machine shop likely can do it for you, if you’re unable to.

Clint
Thinking I paid $200 for seals and bearings on the gen1 local shop. I thought it was worth it
 
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