Front Door/Dash/A-Pillar Speaker Replacement

Rikki-Tikki-Tavi · Jan 3, 2024

After installing a powered subwoofer, I decided to start replacing the stock speakers. For the front speakers, I chose this inexpensive Rockford Fosgate component speaker system. It was ~$80 delivered from Crutchfield with door/dash mounting brackets, door speaker wiring adaptors, and super detailed instructions...

I haven't done the door speakers yet but I did "do" the dash speakers today. I actually decided to leave the stock dash speakers in place and splice in the tweeters mounting them in the A-pillar where the trucks with the "nice" system already have them.

Here is a pic of the basic stock dash speakers. For what it's worth, that's a 47uf capacitor on the speakers limiting them to frequencies above ~800 ohms.

I used a 1.75 inch hole saw to cut the hole in the A-pillars. I then used a file to open up the holes a bit to accept the tweeters

I used more Lockitt POSI-TAPS to tap into the dash speaker wires. I left the wires a bit long...

Here are a couple of pics of the final installation. Even before installing the new 6.75in door speakers, the system sounds much better. The tweeters really complement the stock dash speakers. Highs, cymbals, and the overall front "sound stage" are all dramatically better.

I don't enjoy pulling door panels, but I look forward to putting in the door speakers

dubyam · Jan 3, 2024

That looks slick. I wonder if the tweeters in my 2011 are band-passed using a simple capacity at the speaker, also. I've been looking at Infinity speakers and they have some very nice component setups (though for the price, might have to look at the Rockfords!) which come with crossovers and everything. Didn't want to go that route if I wasn't going to get the full Infinity package installed, though. Now I have to pop my dash tweeters out and check one for the cap.

Rikki-Tikki-Tavi · Jan 4, 2024

dubyam said:
That looks slick. I wonder if the tweeters in my 2011 are band-passed using a simple capacity at the speaker, also. I've been looking at Infinity speakers and they have some very nice component setups (though for the price, might have to look at the Rockfords!) which come with crossovers and everything. Didn't want to go that route if I wasn't going to get the full Infinity package installed, though. Now I have to pop my dash tweeters out and check one for the cap.

I took a ride today, and I will say; that even before installing the door speakers, the improvement to sound quality and clean volume from the A-pillar tweeters alone is worth the $80 spent. I ordered a set of foam baffles (here) to install with the door speakers. They should show up this weekend.

Also, to add to the "songs to do sound checks with" list starting in the powered subwoofer thread, I recommend you cue up "One World (Not Three)" by The Police from the 1981 album Ghost In The Machine. The percussion on this song is so tight; it is a Stuart Copeland masterpiece. Play it loud...

Rikki-Tikki-Tavi · Jan 4, 2024

Additional approved soundcheck songs:

"Something About You" by Boston from the 1976 self-titled album Boston:

"Highwaysong" by Blackfoot from the 1979 album Strikes:

Rikki-Tikki-Tavi · Jan 4, 2024

And there is of course the timeless "Taste The Biscuit" by Toaster and Moose from the classic feature film "Chickens In The Shadows", documenting their epic 2011 "Rock Your Body Home" reunion tour. Oh yeah:

Rikki-Tikki-Tavi · Jan 7, 2024

I finished up the door speakers this morning.

While the stock dash speakers are 4 ohms, the front door speakers in my truck are 2 ohms. The replacement Rockford's are 4 ohms. I am sure we could have fascinating discussions about speaker impedances, Ohm's Law, and its effects on speaker volume and sound quality.

The stock speaker's plastic frames were not impressive. Even these base-level Rockford's are far superior in quality to the stock speakers (at least in my truck)

I used these $15 baffles. They are deep (I didn't measure them), but I did check to make sure the windows roll up/down without any interference.

Everything fit back together without any drama. The holes on the new mount, however, do not line up with the holes in the door. I re-used a few of the stock screws but then used these Tek Self-tapping screws to finish the job.

The system's sound quality with the door speakers installed is even better, shockingly good. It is so good in fact, that I blew another $80, and ordered another set of these speakers to install on the rear doors. I intend to flush-mount the tweeters in the rear door panels. It should look stock (-ish) and give rear-seat passengers some nice sound.

Rikki-Tikki-Tavi · Jan 10, 2024

Rear door speaker installation is documented here

dubyam · Jan 10, 2024

How's volume after switching everything out from 2ohm to 4ohm? I have the RF system in my Gen1 and believe my door speakers are also 2ohm (but it's been a very long time since I had a door panel off and I don't clearly recall). Wondering if moving to a 4ohm set will compromise my overall sound power noticeably.

Rikki-Tikki-Tavi · Jan 10, 2024

dubyam said:
How's volume after switching everything out from 2ohm to 4ohm? I have the RF system in my Gen1 and believe my door speakers are also 2ohm (but it's been a very long time since I had a door panel off and I don't clearly recall). Wondering if moving to a 4ohm set will compromise my overall sound power noticeably.

I was wondering too before I did it. Just for the record, the OEM front door speakers were 2 ohms, the dash were 4 ohms (mid-ranges) and the rear doors were 4 ohm dual cones. To my uncalibrated ears, the volume is excellent. The replacement RF speakers will go slightly louder than the stock but with much more clarity and crispness. But for overall volume increases, it's the sub that really makes the difference. So far, the Rockville has been doing a great job

Cen-Cal-Titan · Jan 17, 2024

Rikki-Tikki-Tavi said:
After installing a powered subwoofer, I decided to start replacing the stock speakers. For the front speakers, I chose this inexpensive Rockford Fosgate component speaker system. It was ~$80 delivered from Crutchfield with door/dash mounting brackets, door speaker wiring adaptors, and super detailed instructions...

I haven't done the door speakers yet but I did "do" the dash speakers today. I actually decided to leave the stock dash speakers in place and splice in the tweeters mounting them in the A-pillar where the trucks with the "nice" system already have them.

Here is a pic of the basic stock dash speakers. For what it's worth, that's a 47uf capacitor on the speakers limiting them to frequencies above ~800 ohms.

I used a 1.75 inch hole saw to cut the hole in the A-pillars. I then used a file to open up the holes a bit to accept the tweeters

I used more Lockitt POSI-TAPS to tap into the dash speaker wires. I left the wires a bit long...

Here are a couple of pics of the final installation. Even before installing the new 6.75in door speakers, the system sounds much better. The tweeters really complement the stock dash speakers. Highs, cymbals, and the overall front "sound stage" are all dramatically better.

I don't enjoy pulling door panels, but I look forward to putting in the door speakers

You inspired me to pull the trigger on replacing my front stage with new speakers. Should have them this Friday.👍

Roush · Jan 17, 2024

I've been keeping up on this thread myself. I need one of these guys to come out and upgrade the sound system in the truck for me. It's like Japanese to me. 😆

dubyam · Jan 17, 2024

If I were closer, I'd be happy to help. It's not as difficult as it seems, though. Especially to do speaker updates.

Rikki-Tikki-Tavi · Jan 17, 2024

The attached pdf is what it takes to remove and replace speakers and more on a Gen2, it wasn't mission impossible, and the Lockitt POSITAPs make it so easy to add tweeters. Also, the hole size needed for flush mounting the tweeter is 46mm, and a 1.75-inch hole saw is 44.5mm, so using a 1.75-inch hole saw and reaming with a file means you cannot make the hole too big; just make sure it's in the right place.

And that toothed metal ring is all that's holding the tweeter in place. This pic was taken before I snugged the ring down on the back of the rear door.

dubyam · Jan 17, 2024

The Gen1 Titan is just about as easy. There are a lot of videos on how to get the door panels off. That may be the toughest part of the whole job. Beyond that, get speakers that fit the factory mounts and go ahead and buy the wiring harness stubs which will allow you to plug directly into the factory harness without cutting any wires, and you'll be all set. If you want to add tweeters to a Gen1, you might get lucky and have grills or blanks in the dash where the OEM tweeters go for the Rockford system. Then it's just a matter of running a little wiring (included with component speakers) and you're all set. If you decide to upgrade the HU, the only real hard part there is steering wheel controls. Just a speaker replacement is pretty simple.

Roush · Jan 17, 2024

My truck had a system in it at some point. I have tweeter in the doors that are not wired to anything, and it looks like heavy gauge and speakers wire ran under the rear seat that are dead headed and taped off.

I've replaced my HU because it had some trash $40 China HU and all the wires are cut on the harness but the steering wheel controls and a random harness are still intact behide the HU.

I also have all the original stereo stuff under the passenger seat. Some of those wires have been cut as well. I thought about removing it all from under the seat.

dubyam · Jan 17, 2024

That sucks that some yahoo cut wires. There are plug and play harnesses available which eliminate all the cutting of the OEM harness.

Roush · Jan 17, 2024

dubyam said:
That sucks that some yahoo cut wires. There are plug and play harnesses available which eliminate all the cutting of the OEM harness.

I know, too cheap to spend $20 I guess? But it's what I have to deal with now.

dubyam · Jan 17, 2024

If you can find a same-year Titan in the junkyard, you can grab all the plugs/harness sections (or at least cut the plugs with an excess of "pigtail" behind it) and solder your harness back together to make it OEM again.

Under the passenger seat was only the nav disc drive so no real sound stuff there. Not sure what plugs would get cut there except maybe doofus installed a sub under there or an amp?

With your situation, it might be best to take the truck to a shop and pay for speaker install. Clean, warranteed work would be worth it if you're not experienced in wiring.

Roush · Jan 17, 2024

I have thought about doing that to correct the issues with the wiring.

Thanks for telling me what that stuff is under the seat. I had no clue.

Im really good at automotive wiring, I just hate it so much. The issue is the stereo shops around here are hella sketchy with terrible reviews.

dubyam · Jan 17, 2024

I hear you. We have some sketchy shops here, too. Many of them are a front for drug selling.

Front Door/Dash/A-Pillar Speaker Replacement

Rikki-Tikki-Tavi

dubyam

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dubyam

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Cen-Cal-Titan

Roush

dubyam

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