get a mono amp

 

First, you'll need a line out converter, or LOC for short; relatively cheap. Second, as mentioned before, get you a Class D mono amp, rated at about 800rms at 2ohms, run you some good 4 gauge power wire and ground, and think real hard about getting about a 2farad quick charge capacitor. You're box is going to be 80% of how good your subs sound, so don't cheap out on that; do your research and build yourself a good box.

 

I wouldn't even worry about a cap they are just expensive led number things. I have 2,000 watts running threw my truck and no light dim or any problems.

 

I know there are varied opinions on this, but having done this for a living for a few years(in the past), I pose this question: If caps were just "expensive led number things", why in the world would your major competitors, sponsored or not, be running them? The last time I checked the rule books, they have installation guidelines and so forth, going as far to say that 6 caps in series qualifies as a second battery.

There is not a battery, alternator, or combination of the two, that will charge as fast as a stereo demands. Even if you don't have light dimming, you have voltage drop, and that is just about the fastest way I know of to burn up equipment, or at the very least hurt it's efficiency and productivity. Not only will a cap make it easier on the existing battery and alternator, it will clean up the sound of a system. It is usually more apparent it the mids and highs sound than in the bass, but I have heard several systems benefit from a good cap while just running sub amps. Plus those "expensive led number things" give you a way to keep you eyes on your voltage, instead of our factory analog no number gauges that I have personally found inconsistencies and delayed readings and so forth. I mean, I know I'm a little more anal about this than most, and equipment design is better nowadays, but to me it's like insurance.

Not trying to start a debate here, but the facts are the facts. They are not "snake oil", or anything of the like, they have a certain purpose and function.
I wouldn't run over 500w without one, but like I said I'm a bit anal. Most seriously consider 1000w as a threshold of cost vs benefit.

 

Agreed^^^
If you have any problems, you could just upgrade the battery and you'll be fine.

 

What kinda price range am I lookin at with an amp like this?

 

Under 150, I think this amp is the best bang and yes i mean it will bang ha but yes this is the best bang for your buck what i have found.


Amazon.com: Kenwood KAC-9104D - Amplifier - 1-channel: Automotive

 

so that amp will run 2 1oinch 4ohm subs?

 

Yea i run 2 12s and i can get past -3 bass volume on m head unit with out blowing my ear drums out! ha

 

now if i get that amp and hook the subs up, do i do anything to my door speakers or leave them alone?

also does anyone have any blueprints for a box?

 

No i dont build my boxes, but i just have subs now, but this summer im doing door speakers, so if your budget allows for door spear i say do it!

ps if you buy a box make sure you do your research and its good quality.

 

OK so right now i am split between building a box for 1 10 inch sub and hooking up 2 10s. because if i get a mono amp i can run the 2 tens and then i need another amp for the dorrs, but is the an amp that i can run through the doors and run one 10?

 

No, you would need to run 2 10's because the subs are 400 rms and the amp is 900 rms so it would most likely blow 1 sub, the door speaker amps are not very big ive seen some a little bigger that a pack of cigarettes.

 

ok well im gonna save myself some money and just use the bow the subs came with...which is 2 1/2 feet long and 1ftx1ft on the ends so it will stand up behind my drivers seat when i fold up the rear seat. i will sacrifice the space...o well. but my last question is, all i need now is a class d mono amp and an LOC right, am i missing anything?

 

If you have a aftermarket head unit you dont need the loc, but if you have the stock head unit then yes you need a loc, you will also need a wiring kit, a good wiring kit runs about 50 to 100 buck, just make sure its AWG certified and do not buy a cheap $20 one off of ebay they are not what they say they are! You should be good are you going to install it yourself?

 

I have the stock head unit. So ClassD mono amp, LOC, and AWG certified wiring kit...I am going to installl myself with the help of a buddy who is a computer and electronic genious.

 

Yeah you should be set, just make sure you have zip ties also for a clean install on wiring.

 

If you want one amp to do the doors, and sub(s), they are available. You would need to get away from the mono class D amps, and start looking for multi-channel applications. A five channel amp would be right up your alley, but the price on those starts climbing up!!!

Crunch P5000.5 (cru-p50005) 5-Channel or more Amps Car Amplifiers Car Audio Car Audio, Video, & GPS Navigation - Sonic Electronix

Kicker ZX700.5 (10ZX700.5) (10zx7005) Multi-channel Amps Car Amplifiers Car Audio Car Audio, Video, & GPS Navigation - Sonic Electronix

Kicker 08ZX700.5 (08zx7005) 5-Channel or more Amps Car Amplifiers Car Audio Car Audio, Video, & GPS Navigation - Sonic Electronix

Infinity KAPPA FIVE (kappafive) 5-Channel or more Amps Car Amplifiers Car Audio Car Audio, Video, & GPS Navigation - Sonic Electronix

Alpine PDX-5 (pdx5) 5-Channel or more Amps Car Amplifiers Car Audio Car Audio, Video, & GPS Navigation - Sonic Electronix

Soundstream TRA880.5 (tra8805) Multi-channel Amps Car Amplifiers Car Audio Car Audio, Video, & GPS Navigation - Sonic Electronix

 

Yea thats great and everything but its not going to sound the best

 

should i disconnect the door speakers once i hook up the subs...? im pretty sure my front right door speaker is blown anyways

 

disconnecting them will mean missing sound, the bass needs to be choked off of them preferably, but I ran mine full range with subs

 

are the front and back speakers the same

 

Not the same size, but they are the same sound producing, meaning full range.

 

ok thanks, im pretty sure my right front door speaker is blown so im just tryin to figure out what im goin to do about that problem as well

 

If I get the Kenwood KAC-9104D - Amplifier with 1200 watts can anyone tell me what wiring kit and loc to get? and i dont want to spend a lot of money

 

4 Gauge wiring kit, I forgot what kind of loc i got so i cant help you there

 

Also you want to spend at least 50 buck on a kit, and make sure it is AWG certified and once again stick with name brand.

 

ok thanks. so i was looking at the amps at amazon...why is the 1200 watt amp 160 but the 1800 watt amp 140? any ideas and im talkin about the kenwood i mentioned above

 

I dont now maybe it is diffrent rms?

 

Amazon.com: Kenwood KAC-8104D 1000-Watt Max Power Class D Mono Power Amplifier with Variable LPF: Automotive

would that amp be ok to run to 10s that are both 4ohm?

 

This amp would be okay with a single voice coil 4 ohm sub or 2 svcs wired in parallel for a 2 ohm load. If you run one 4 ohm sub, it will see 300 watts, if you run 2 in parallel they will see 250 watts each, so this would actually be well under their rms assuming you are still using the 10's you mentioned earlier with 400watt rms rating.

 

Thats a 8104D and its only 1000 watts and 110 bucks:bangit:

 

yea thats why i was askin if it would be good for the 10s since its cheaper

 

OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO! I mean its really your choice I personally would do 12''s just so you do it right and get it done with.

 

well i already have the 10s and the box, and im on a budget so id be cheaper for me just to get the amp and wires then to get new subs and box ya know. if i could though id go 12s

 

i have one 10 being built by tech12 and he recommended me also get the kenwood 9104......i trust him on this cause he has done many setups for Titans. Do yal think that amp has to much power for just one ten or will it be fine?