Which camshaft would you start with? There are 4 of them!!!

 

Which camshaft would you start with? There are 4 of them!!!

I don't think it would matter where you started, but we always thought that getting the cam just right added power and gave us quicker throttle response. Has anyone else considered this yet ??

 

I don't think it would matter where you started, but we always thought that getting the cam just right added power and gave us quicker throttle response. Has anyone else considered this yet ??

There are many variables in our overhead cam timing system, that are not as easily controlled (as they are in a single cam, chain or gear driven single camshaft style engine).
If you start with the first driven cam, and adjust the timing somehow (if there is a way to change it), then you would have to move to the next cam in order, while keeping the chain or belt in tension. It is not impossible, but if the cams do not have removable/adjustable gears, it becomes very difficult. Our old pushrod style engines were easily adjusted using offset bushings in the cam drive gear.
Not saying it is impossible, but you have to keep in mind, that the ECM most likely senses camshaft position, and adjusts timing, fuel, etc, and changing things might not be a good idea, unless you have a way to reprogram the computer. If you can find ways to improve your induction or exhaust systems, you will possibly see more gain for the effort. All of them make great claims, and some of the guys here have even gone to the effort (expense) of doing dyno work. Personally, I don't need 20 extra horsepower at 4000 to 6000 rpm.

Just some thoughts....worth about 2 cents.

 

Its way to much of a hassle to in the long run just move your powerband to a different rpm.

 

Its way to much of a hassle to in the long run just move your powerband to a different rpm.
Ditto to what you said, I build motorcycle engines for dragracing, and I do dial in the cams, but unless you are doing major mods to the engine, the factory engineers probably have them set where they need to be.
Bob Holland

 

So far I've gone with the Flowmaster dual exhaust and will be adding the Volant air induction system, so the truck isn't stock. The question about degreeing in the cam was just that, a question, and I think you've given me the answer. But that leads to the question of balancing or blue printing.

 

How do you like the flowmaster? I went with the Flowmaster series 40, 3" inlet and dual 2 1/2" outlet. It sounds real good. I have not gone though a full tank of gas yet, but I believe that the gas mileage is a little better. I will run it though the quarter mile the next time I go to the dragstrip just to see what it will do.

 

So far I've gone with the Flowmaster dual exhaust and will be adding the Volant air induction system, so the truck isn't stock. The question about degreeing in the cam was just that, a question, and I think you've given me the answer. But that leads to the question of balancing or blue printing.

skromfols, I have built a few balanced and "blueprinted" engines in the past. Mostly for racing applications or toys. None of them ran any more smoothly than my Titan engine. I don't know what tolerances Nissan uses, or how well the crankshaft is counterweighted ( it looks good in the service manual), or if they are spin balanced, or maybe just weight-matched, but it is pretty smooth through the whole power band. I believe that this engine has a pent-roof combustion chamber, and I am not sure how easily it is to set the deck height, etc. I would bet with todays manufacturing techniques and technology, that the combustion chambers and intake runners have nearly identical flow characteristics and dimensions.
I have never had a "stock" pushrod style V8 that would rev so quickly or smoothly to 6000 rpm as this "CAMMER" from Nissan. There are lots of guys out there who have more experience with OH Cam engines, who can tell you if you are spending your time and effort wisely...perhaps someone who races a Titan off-road would be a good choice. I am sure that they have had this engine apart a few times.
Regardless, it seems like you really want to take it apart, so if you do, let us all know what you find out. Real pre and post modification Dyno numbers would impress me. Not rear axle horsepower and torque through an automatic transmission, but real Engine Dyno numbers. That way, we can see what you have gained at 1000 to 4000 rpm, where most of us run our trucks on a daily basis (with the occasional run to 6000 rpm, just because we can, and without bending any pushrods)
Good Luck,
Dave :cheers:

PS Please keep a list of your expenses, and how much work you do yourself.

 

IMO, don't mess with the internals of a brand new, well designed, smooth running, and powerful DOHC motor. The 5.6 puts out good power across the band and is designed to run hard for well over 100,000 miles. If you mess with the cams, you are going to lose power either on the bottom or top end. Save yourself the time and hassle and wait for a blower and throw on some nitrous.

 

Rholland, I really do like my exhaust set up. I used Sammysandbags example and diagram, including the X pipe. I had the local truck modification shop do the work and it came out just like I wanted. I mentioned on another thread, the neighbor was polishing his Viper the other day when I drove by (and yes I gave it a little gas to get a good sound) and he stopped what he was doing and started looking for what made the great sound. My wife also caught a guy working on his Harley Davidson drop his tools and squint into the sun looking at what made the sound when I drove by (going up hill in 3rd gear and sounding GREAT!!!!).
I'm not really that anxious to tear my engine apart, but was just curious. After adding the Volant intake system I'll probably change to synthetic lubricants in the engine and transmission (I've already done the rear end) when I have a few more miles on it, and call it quits. Unlike some trucks, this is strictly a work truck (my first accessary was a lumber rack), but even a work truck can look and sound good.

 

The lumber rack looks good. Mine is my work truck also. I have to haul computers and network equipment around the school district where I work.
Has the new exhaust helped you gas mileage. I have gone through only one tank of gas since I had the exhaust put on, and the gas mileage was the same, 15.87 mpg.

 

Thanks

My lumber rack was the first made for a Titan in this area, so with manufacture, install and white paint (which was an extra $75) it was almost $450, but I really needed it. I buy and renovate houses, so I'm always carrying lumber, pipe, etc, that extends beyond the bed, so my lumber rack is a life saver. My driving is primarily around town, and mostly short trips (i.e., 5 to 6 miles each way), and my mileage is terrible. I feel good if I get 13 or 13.5, but I only have about 2,500 miles on the truck still, so I'm hopeing that things will improve.
What I find interesting is that when I come out of The Home Depot, Lowe's or other hardware stores there's usually at least one guy over checking out my truck. Sometimes they ask questions, other times they just walk off as I approach. The loaders at Lowe's and Home Depot always stick around after helping me load up so that they can hear the truck start up. It really does sound great and I can't wait to get the new Volant air intake to finish helping the engine breath easier.
Here's another pic of the Titan and the truck that it replaced. My Ranger was the 4.0L with a 5 sp. I had the flowmaster dual exhaust, an RPM air intake and a Superchip. With 135,000 miles on it I still wasn't adding any oil between changes, and it would work all day without a glitch. My only problem with the Ranger was that I often hauled too much and the leaf springs taking a beating. My crew wouldn't hear of letting the Ranger go, so one of my crew bought it before I could even advertise it in the paper.

 

Wouldn't you need to slot the cam sprockets to degree them? Or are they slotted from Nissan?

MIke