I'm new to the forum. Was reading this post because I in fact just got done deleting mine. Full dpf and EGRdelete.. My truck is sitting right at 45,000 mi. Purchased it about a year and a half ago with 36,000. The truck is beautiful and ran great compared to my previous ride. However, I have found numerous problems having past 6 months that have caused me to question my purchase. I've read and read all abmyt all the negative things regarding these engines. My biggest problem so far is finding a great selection of parts or availability of them.
I've only had the delete done for right at a week. Regarding price, $1,500 bucks is a joke. My delete kit alone along with easy link and tunes with SOTF switch was around $2,700.
Luckily I am a mechanic by trade. Had I done the work for someone else I would have easily charged them $1,500 labor.
I'm still playing around with the different tunes. I quickly figured out that anything above the second level of tune is just too damn much for the truck to handle fresh off the press. I'm sure that once I drive around in tunes 1 and 2 for a little while, the remaining tunes may adapt to shift conditions and such. At least that's what I'm hoping for.
Aside from that I found a dangerous problem with my suspension while I was working on it. And because someone half-*** lifted the truck 5 in before I bought it, I am now invested another $3,000 into a complete suspension kit to repair my problem and still accommodate these big *** 35-in tires.
Overall, the delete has by far been the best possible thing I have done for my engine. It really opened up the engine's potential. No, I have not seen substantial fuel economy gains. But I don't drive like a grandma either. I use my truck like a real truck. And I put it through the test of every situation.
The main reason I jumped on this thread was because after doing what I had just told you and working out the quirks, I have a code that continues to return. It is a code P22CE, stating the output valve is stuck.
I've cleared it twice already, but every time I get on the interstate and go to accelerate hard, it pops back on. It does not seem to affect the overall drivability when it occurs. But I do stand to wonder if it's okay to keep driving it without resetting it.
I haven't dug deep into the workings of the turbocharging system. As mentioned I've only had the truck for a little over a year and a half, and I am just now having the opportunity to investigate some of the engines workings.
About 6 months into my original purchase, the turbo actuator failed. When I called my local Nissan dealer, I was told how lucky I was that they had one in stock. Apparently they had been on national back order for some time, and the customer they had ordecallshis one for would not return their calls. So $700 later I was back on the road. I'm mentioned this because I'm curious as to whether or not this actuator is controlling the sticking valve that is mentioned above. I'm sure I'll figure it out on my own at some point. Just wondering if anyone had any thoughts on it.