I just finished installing a powered subwoofer Santa brought me for Christmas, and I thought I would share some pics of the installation. This is not meant to be a detailed tutorial, just some highlights that may (or may not?) help someone thinking about doing the job.
For me, three things made this an easy install (or at least easier...)
1. No 12V switched power (remote turn-on) wire needed
2. For power wire, usable existing pass-through grommet in the firewall (and on the same side as the battery)
3. For signal wires, easily accessible (and tappable) rear door speaker wires
Santa brought me this Rockville 10" powered subwoofer from Amazon. This powered sub (like many other brands) has an "auto turn-on" feature, eliminating the need to run a "remote turn-on" wire.
I screwed the sub to a piece of scrap plywood, which will be secured to the back wall of the truck (child seat anchor point) once I pick up a slightly longer bolt. It's not going anywhere behind the seat, but IMO it should be permanently installed...
I grounded the sub on the back side of the rear seat latch after wire-wheeling the paint off. I may not look elegant but it is a good, and easy to get to, grounding point
I choose to run the power wire through the firewall on the passenger side where the AC drain hose passes through. I taped the power wire to a piece of coat hanger and pushed it through the drain hose grommet from inside the truck.
Here is the view from outside (under) the truck. The power wire I ran is (supposedly...) 8AWG. The wire fits through the existing grommet with no problems and doesn't appear to be crowding the drain line.
The (alleged) 8AWG power wire was part of this cheesy Boss amp wiring kit, also brought by Santa...
Getting the left and right signal wires to the sub was easier than I expected. In the pillar behind each front door is a white plastic cover with a wiring harness attached to it. That harness contains the rear door speaker wires.
Here is the driver's side after I unplugged the harness from the connector inside the pillar. The twisted pair of wires are the speaker wires.
Left Positive = Sky Blue
Left Negative = Black/Yellow
Here is the passenger side, once again with the harness unplugged. It is not necessary to unplug the harnesses; I just found it easier to deal with them unplugged. Speaker wires again are the twisted pair.
Right Positive = Orange/Blue
Right Negative = Red/Blue
To tap the signals from both sides, I used these Lockit POSI-TAPS. They are not free, but provide an easy and secure tap, and don't require any wire cutting.
The sub came with a wired remote boost level knob, which I ran to the dash (still looking for a permanent home for it). I am also still getting the sub's settings dialed in, but my initial impressions of the sub are very favorable.
These compact powered subs will surely not win any sound-offs, but (for me) it can be enough to make a decent stock system sound so much better, way-way better, with minimal mods and effort, and without losing a bunch of space. Maybe I should get some new front door/dash speakers...?
For me, three things made this an easy install (or at least easier...)
1. No 12V switched power (remote turn-on) wire needed
2. For power wire, usable existing pass-through grommet in the firewall (and on the same side as the battery)
3. For signal wires, easily accessible (and tappable) rear door speaker wires
Santa brought me this Rockville 10" powered subwoofer from Amazon. This powered sub (like many other brands) has an "auto turn-on" feature, eliminating the need to run a "remote turn-on" wire.
I screwed the sub to a piece of scrap plywood, which will be secured to the back wall of the truck (child seat anchor point) once I pick up a slightly longer bolt. It's not going anywhere behind the seat, but IMO it should be permanently installed...
I grounded the sub on the back side of the rear seat latch after wire-wheeling the paint off. I may not look elegant but it is a good, and easy to get to, grounding point

I choose to run the power wire through the firewall on the passenger side where the AC drain hose passes through. I taped the power wire to a piece of coat hanger and pushed it through the drain hose grommet from inside the truck.

Here is the view from outside (under) the truck. The power wire I ran is (supposedly...) 8AWG. The wire fits through the existing grommet with no problems and doesn't appear to be crowding the drain line.

The (alleged) 8AWG power wire was part of this cheesy Boss amp wiring kit, also brought by Santa...

Getting the left and right signal wires to the sub was easier than I expected. In the pillar behind each front door is a white plastic cover with a wiring harness attached to it. That harness contains the rear door speaker wires.
Here is the driver's side after I unplugged the harness from the connector inside the pillar. The twisted pair of wires are the speaker wires.
Left Positive = Sky Blue
Left Negative = Black/Yellow

Here is the passenger side, once again with the harness unplugged. It is not necessary to unplug the harnesses; I just found it easier to deal with them unplugged. Speaker wires again are the twisted pair.
Right Positive = Orange/Blue
Right Negative = Red/Blue

To tap the signals from both sides, I used these Lockit POSI-TAPS. They are not free, but provide an easy and secure tap, and don't require any wire cutting.

The sub came with a wired remote boost level knob, which I ran to the dash (still looking for a permanent home for it). I am also still getting the sub's settings dialed in, but my initial impressions of the sub are very favorable.
These compact powered subs will surely not win any sound-offs, but (for me) it can be enough to make a decent stock system sound so much better, way-way better, with minimal mods and effort, and without losing a bunch of space. Maybe I should get some new front door/dash speakers...?