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Even Better Volant Dyno Results

7.5K views 46 replies 13 participants last post by  Finnattic  
#1 · (Edited)
Well I went back to the dyno today, I just knew if I let the engine cool off a little that it could do better.

Yesterday my best was:

Temp was in 70's

Humidity at 15%

279.70 rwhp and 339.01 torque


Today was better:

Temp was in 60's

Humidity was about 30%

and I let the Endurance cool off for about 35 min and it helped. Today was:

286.51 rwhp = 358 bhp 20% driveline loss

352.93 torque = 441 btq 20% driveline loss



So with the addition of the Volant I gained around 13.75 rwhp better and 36 torque. Now those are the results I want to see.

Everybody Post Sae Corrected Numbers

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Since it seems that I'm not conforming with the NASCAR and National Hotrod Association Rulebook and causing such controversy and uproar among the ranks I'll post the corrected SAE numbers as well as they kick just as much Azz..

The first dyno is best with Volant and Gibson Exhaust

The second is just the dyno with the Gibson Extremes

The third is two of the best runs
 

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#3 ·
The corrections take the weather variations out of the results.....what are you talking about? If you test uncorrected at 30 degrees and change nothing...test again at 80 degrees you lose power. thats consistant?
 
#4 · (Edited)
KL99SEA said:
The corrections take the weather variations out of the results.....what are you talking about? If you test uncorrected at 30 degrees and change nothing...test again at 80 degrees you lose power. thats consistant?
Maybe I worded it wrong. I realize corrected numbers make up for any and everthing - altitude, humidity, temp, ect. In some cases corrected numbers will make the number higher such as testing in a high elevation. I'm just using the raw numbers as was asked of me to keep the testing consistant.
 
#5 ·
Thats fine as long as you realize what your working with. The corrected numbers can be lower too, it depends on conditions. For an accurate comparison between dynos done at different times you would need to use the corrected numbers. Like I said I could dyno a bone stock truck one day and show 10 hp gain the next day on the same dyno. The corrected numbers would be alot closer. Good numbers anyway...the volant is my next thing I'm going to get.
 
#7 · (Edited)
Corrected Numbers

KL99SEA said:
Thats fine as long as you realize what your working with. The corrected numbers can be lower too, it depends on conditions. For an accurate comparison between dynos done at different times you would need to use the corrected numbers. Like I said I could dyno a bone stock truck one day and show 10 hp gain the next day on the same dyno. The corrected numbers would be alot closer. Good numbers anyway...the volant is my next thing I'm going to get.
It's all good, I can post the corrected numbers as well...
 
#8 · (Edited)
pciley said:
Disagree.. Sometimes the "corrected" numbers show skewed results.
I believe that Finnattic is making a very accurate comparison. Nice Job!
Thanks pciley,

Good to know that your experience says the same as what I've been led to believe...
 
#10 · (Edited)
coolvette said:
nice, seems as the first dyno, the power comes on at a lower r.p.m. Why would this happen? If I understand right, Less restriction, higher the r.p.m.
I'm only guessing here but I think it may have something to do with the way the Endurance was designed and the ECU to give max torque low in the r.p.m power band as the dyno results indicate.
 
#12 · (Edited)
Buzzkilled

HoustonTitan said:
441 base torque? thats a bit much from an intake.

379 stock will improve by 62 ft lbs from just an intake and even with an exhaust. not trying to be a buzzkill, but those numbers are high
Buzzkill :teethmast

Remember that's Nissan's underrated number. If you take my first dyno from the Gibson and use those numbers (316.93 rwtq) then using Nissan's 379 stock number with having 396 btq before with same formula I gained 17 torque from the Gibson. Take into consideration for whatever reasons my Dyno before the Volant I got a best of 316.93 torque. After the Volant and whatever reason and engine breaking in more I got 352.93 torque. That's 36 more torque for whatever reason...

I took the rear wheel dyno number of 352.93 torque and used the 20% loss formula of .8 to get 441. Also remember some have dynoed a stock bhp number of 330 bhp. I unfortunately never dynoed stock, just after the Gibson so I can at least tell what the Volant did. I was probably higher than Nissan's stock rating anyway when I was stock.
 
#13 ·
Nobody reports inflated Actual or Max Power numbers. Everyone in the performance industry reports SAE corrected numbers unless they want bragging rights or to get laughed out of town. Is your dyno operator ignorant or did he just give you what you wanted to see?

The numbers are not comparable to any other numbers except those attained by someone else using the same dyno on the same day under the same conditions. That's the true purpose of a dyno, to compare before and after, compare to other vehicles across the country, or tune air/fuel, not to compare how weather affects performance.
 
#14 ·
SAE is what should be reported. Also, why are you always assuming 20% drivetrain loss? is it really that high? or are we just making an assumption of 20%? nonetheless, its good to be putting that much power down from a simple intake and exhaust. i think you should take it to the track to see what she runs.
 
#15 · (Edited)
20% loss isn't enough for this application

aznsupra said:
SAE is what should be reported. Also, why are you always assuming 20% drivetrain loss? is it really that high? or are we just making an assumption of 20%? nonetheless, its good to be putting that much power down from a simple intake and exhaust. i think you should take it to the track to see what she runs.
I can post SAE as well, that's not a problem...

Too answer your question, "Is the drivetrain loss really that much?" No, it's more than likely HIGHER!

20% for this truck is probably a LOW presumption of driveline loss since it is a Four Wheel Drive with big azz rims and tires compared to a car not to mention the big azz drive shaft, transmission, transfer case, two differentials. It's probably more like 30% or more in reality. We want to talk industry standard, industry standard around here as far as race cars go is 18% driveloss, not 4wd trucks. I think I'm being MORE than fair to use 20%...

You want SAE, then I'll post SAE. It doesn't make a bit of difference to me.
I posted the uncorrected numbers because I was asked too...

We want to get all professional and BIG LEAGUE than we can do that too.

As far as track goes they are shut down for the season until March, maybe someone will come out with a power programmer for this thing by then then we can really have some fun...
 
#16 · (Edited)
Bob said:
Nobody reports inflated Actual or Max Power numbers. Everyone in the performance industry reports SAE corrected numbers unless they want bragging rights or to get laughed out of town. Is your dyno operator ignorant or did he just give you what you wanted to see?

The numbers are not comparable to any other numbers except those attained by someone else using the same dyno on the same day under the same conditions. That's the true purpose of a dyno, to compare before and after, compare to other vehicles across the country, or tune air/fuel, not to compare how weather affects performance.
Your exactly right, that's why I dynoed, to see the difference after the first mod being the Gibson Exhaust, then the Volant. It's also interesting too see how weather affects the performance as well. Like I said we want to get all BIG LEAGUE here don't make a rat's azz to me. You want SAE than I'll post those too. Those numbers kick just as much azz as the uncorrected do. Corrected numbers can be skewed too and I merely posted the uncorrected because I was asked too by another knowledgeable member simply because they just wanted too keep the test consistent with the raw data.
 
#17 · (Edited)
Everybody Post Sae Corrected Numbers

Since it seems that I'm not conforming with the NASCAR and National Hotrod Association Rulebook and causing such controversy and uproar among the ranks I'll post the corrected SAE numbers as well as they kick just as much Azz.. :flamed: :eh: :hahano:
 
#18 ·
Just post both! Hopefully the SAE numbers show the same gains, Unless weather conditions were very different between testing days they should show the same. They could show more. Using uncorrected dynos I can prove using STP oil treatment increases power!!!! I'll dyno stock at 80 degrees and then with the STP dyno at 30 degrees!!!!Yeah 15hp!!!
 
#20 ·
Well, it is not all from the temperature. 10 degrees will not make that much of a difference and cooling the engine down. It most likely has alot to do with the programming in the ECU. It finally learned the new airflow and adjusted the air/fuel trims to compensate correctly. It can take a while for Nissan ECUs to adjust.
 
#21 · (Edited)
Hot Engine VS. Cold Shows Difference

Titan_TX said:
Well, it is not all from the temperature. 10 degrees will not make that much of a difference and cooling the engine down. It most likely has alot to do with the programming in the ECU. It finally learned the new airflow and adjusted the air/fuel trims to compensate correctly. It can take a while for Nissan ECUs to adjust.

As I'm certainly with you as far as the difference 10 degrees makes or doesn't or so there is a difference in the performance numbers as the engine heats up as the dyno results show.
 

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#22 · (Edited)
Ecu

Titan_TX said:
Well, it is not all from the temperature. 10 degrees will not make that much of a difference and cooling the engine down. It most likely has alot to do with the programming in the ECU. It finally learned the new airflow and adjusted the air/fuel trims to compensate correctly. It can take a while for Nissan ECUs to adjust.
I also agree with you about the ECU, it does seem to take a little time to adjust to changes as far as mods go.

A cooler engine will always produce better performance than a hot engine. Not to confuse a warmed up engine as compared to a cold engine. That's why you see serious racers chucking ice into reservoirs between runs and my best numbers are always the first run on the dyno unless I've allowed it time to cool off as I did to achieve my best performance.

Case in point the aluminum block in the endurance heats up very quickly. So quick there was a thread posted about it , something about warm and snugly :teeth: how it takes only a couple of blocks to start pumping heat out in cold weather vs. an iron block engine...
 
#23 ·
thanks finnatic for all your info about your mods and dont let other posts get to you. i think your combination of mods has really showed some increase in horsepower. kepp up the good work :cheers:
 
#24 ·
Finnattic said:
I also agree with you about the ECU, it does seem to take a little time to adjust to changes as far as mods go.

A cooler engine will always produce better performance than a hot engine. That's why you see serious racers chucking ice into reservoirs between runs and my best numbers are always the first run on the dyno unless I've allowed it time to cool off as I did to achieve my best performance.
Depends on the engine. My G35 liked to be warm/hot and ran better 1/4 times when it was. I ran it after an hour sitting, and it ran slower. Nissans have always been known to run better when hot. At least the VQ has. The V8 in the titan might be different though.

Most people who put ice on the engien have a forced induction engine and that helps dramtically.
 
#26 ·
Titan_TX said:
Depends on the engine. My G35 liked to be warm/hot and ran better 1/4 times when it was. I ran it after an hour sitting, and it ran slower. Nissans have always been known to run better when hot. At least the VQ has. The V8 in the titan might be different though.

Most people who put ice on the engien have a forced induction engine and that helps dramtically.
Yeah, I'm not sure about other engines but only this one. It has shown to perform better cooler vs. hotter... I was almost tempted to throw a bag of ice on it :jester: