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How to Change Your Rear Differential Fluid

91K views 34 replies 25 participants last post by  Cobra2216  
#1 · (Edited)
All right guys, I know this is a pretty basic maintenance job, but I'm hoping that many new members (not unlike yours truly) will benefit from seeing exactly how to do this and build some confidence in taking care of their baby.

Tools Needed

3/8" Ratchet (a longer handle and flex head can come in handy)

4 1/4 pints of 75W-140 synthetic gear oil (get 3 one quart bottles, the extra won't hurt)

Drain Pan

Shop Towels or a large piece of heavy cardboard


You really shouldn't need a jack or jack stands, even if you're only at stock height. You can simply crawl under the rear bumper. It may be a different story for you lowered guys.

Please note each picture is named to correspond with a step.


Step by Step

Step 1. Locate the Filler Plug

When looking at your rear differential cover, it will be on your right hand side (i.e., toward the passenger side).


Step 2. Remove the Filler Plug

For this, simply use your 3/8" ratchet to loosen and remove the filler plug. There is no need for a socket of any kind. The 3/8" drive will fit perfectly. A long-handled ratchet could be helpful and give you some extra leverage if you find the filler plug is particularly tight.


Step 3. Locate the Drain Plug

The drain plug will be located on the underside of the differential case and will look just like the filler plug.


Step 4. Remove the Drain Plug

At this point, make sure you've placed the drain pan and some shop towels or a decent-sized piece of cardboard directly under the drain plug. The process for removing the drain plug is exactly the same as it was for the filler plug. Use the 3/8" ratchet to remove the plug. And be prepared, if you haven't done this before and you've got some miles on your Titan, gear oil is definitely not the greatest smelling stuff in the world.


Step 5. Drain the Gear Oil

Now that you have the drain plug removed, let the gear oil drain until is basically dripping. While the oil is draining, take a couple of shop towels and clean the drain plug itself. You will notice the top of the plug is magnetic. This is to attract the tiny metal shavings that will develop over time from the friction between the differential gears. A small amount of these metal shavings is normal, so don't panic; however, if the top of your drain plug looks like it has dreadlocks and could be touring with Bob Marley, you may have an issue!

Once the steady flow of oil has stopped and it's barely dripping, reinsert the clean drain plug and tighten it up. You can use a torque wrench if you have one handy. The correct torque specification is 32 ft-lbs. Honestly, I simply make sure it's solid and tight by hand.


Step 6. Fill the Differential Case

Now that you have your old oil drained and the drain plug tightened back up (you did put the plug back in, right?!), it's time to give her some fresh gear oil. It is entirely up to you which brand you use, but make sure the viscosity is 75W-140 and that it's synthetic. Personally, I use Royal Purple in my truck, but again, everyone has their favorite. Just remember: quality counts.

The rear differential requires 4 1/4 pints. Most of the bottles in an auto parts store are 1 quart. One quart equals 2 pints, so it's worth it to just go ahead and pony up for 3 bottles.

Now you simply cut the tip of the bottle, insert it into the filler opening, and pour in the new gear oil. You could also use a pump if you have one available. Another tip is to take a piece of clear fuel hose and put one end into the filler opening and the other on the tip of the bottle, and then simply squeeze.

The differential is full when the gear oil reaches the bottom of the filler opening. The simplest way to know you've got it filled is when the oil starts slowly running out of the opening. Take a look at the photo and you'll see exactly what I'm talking about. You could also use your pinky finger to check the fluid level.

Once you've got the differential case topped off, simply reinsert the filler plug and tighten it up. The correct torque specification is 32 ft-lbs, just as it was for the drain plug. But again, if you get it nice and snug, you should be good to go.


Step 7. Sit Back and Drink a Beer

Congratulations, you've now got another skill added to your repertoire! It's a good feeling being able to do this stuff ourselves, and definitely keeps some coin in our pockets as well. I really hope this "how-to" helped you out. :teethmast


- Athena's Guardian
 

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#2 ·
Nice write up Athena...I just changed both diffs, transfer case, engine oil, and did the axle vent mod tonight...took a total of 1 1/2 hrs for everything.

would have done a write up like you but I didn't want to get my digital camera all oily. So, thanks for risking your camera. this should be helpful for those that haven't done it yet.

FYI, it took almost a full 2 qts for my front diff.

The old rear fluid looked like chocolate milk.
 
#3 ·
I have heard of the axle vent mod. What is it and what is its purpose.

Thanks for any response.
 
#4 ·
Nice write-up.

With regards to axle vent. The purpose is to prevent a vaccuum from forming in the axle due to the crappy OEM check valve vent design. The OEM axle vent is a one-way check valve, so when pressure builds due to the axle fluid heating up, it vents, but then when the fluid cools, a negative pressure is created and it puts excess stress on the axle seals. Also positive pressure issues arise when your axle vent valve gets clogged with dirt, mud etc, and again it will blow out the axle seals. The vent mod is basically installing an open-ended nipple for an axle vent with a hose that goes into your tail-light, and that provides an open ended vent path so that there is no pressure differential between inside and outside of your axle, which would lead to excess stress on the axle seals. The hose also helps keep water out of your axle if it gets totally submerged at a boat launch, or mud hole. This design has been used for years on older trucks, and works great. Here is a link to the axle vent mod how-to thread. Well worth the $30 in parts and one hour of labor to save wear on your axle seals.

http://www.titantalk.com/forums/titan-faq-howto-area/28334-axle-vent-issue-solution.html
 
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#5 ·
exactly ^^, but for me the parts were about $10 total... nipple from hardware store, hose/clamp, and the fuel filter which was a more expensive one that I had laying around.

did your $30 include that toyota part that some have suggested?

Regardless, it's a great mod, very easy to do and very fast to install. Just make sure when you tie up the hose to leave enough slack for axle up/down travel and don't let it rub on other things like the brake line to the rear wheel, shock housing, etc, because eventually something will wear through.
 
#6 ·
I used Nissan part number: 38323-C601A (formerly C6010)

which is the axle vent nipple from an older Nissan Frontier I believe. Exact same thread pitch etc as the toyota part.

Here's an image of the different vent parts:

https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q=cache:tno932a3qsoJ:www.sonoransteel.com/Diff_Breather_Parts.pdf+Nissan+38323-C6010&hl=en&gl=us&pid=bl&srcid=ADGEEShKUMhqWSUJ_TKiJgPRASifWWi6ovI4MHpDeQ_eH4FhwXicBQ8cR_4CF6U8Cff66Yv1oL3aJW_zU1FTwqNiolaz5Y0wAt_y2yB5EURW9E9MCoZIOJLrqnwj7-I92aVLyFnTKqBk&sig=AHIEtbRcl85Uq0PrLNKLd5kg4MbJ0s078w
 
#7 ·
Thanks Krodad. I'm beginning to think I should have written about the axle mod instead of trying to help some new guys out with rear differential stuff. :teeth:
 
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#8 ·
I think it's great on these forums to do these write-ups anew just to keep them in front of people so when new owners come on line, they find these things that they might not even think to search for.
We get so many lift threads, exhaust stuff, etc., but some of these more basic and important maintenance things should always stay fresh!

The idea of paying a shop a premium to do things like the diff fluid is a sin to me!
 
#9 · (Edited)
I REALLY, appreciate this I REALLY need to do this and my dad literally thinks the truck is perfect and never needs to change any fluids....little does he know nothing about any of the fluids....I LOVE this forum i'm about to do this tommorow and been asking around for prices of doing this and saving $100+ dollars for something that sounds like a typical oil change is GREAT! probrably saving members $100's of dollars and everyone gets to have the satisfaction of saying they take care of there truck.....THANK YOU

Also Clearly I don't know much about trucks....sadly to say but is the front the same way?
 
#10 ·
Matthew (I'm guessing :)),

I really appreciate you taking the time to say thanks! It makes me kinda proud to know I'm helping another guy out with his truck. That's exactly why I (and many of the other great members on here) wrote it up. And do not worry about "not knowing much" about trucks. I'm not that far ahead of you, trust me. A year ago, I couldn't have even told you what a differential was! But step-by-step and you quickly develop a passion for it, at least I did.

To answer your question, YES, the front is almost exactly the same way. The difference is you'll need to take the skid plate off first in order to access the drain plug. Not a big deal though, it's just four bolts you'll need to remove. And absolutely no disrespect whatsoever to your dad, but it is important. Differential gears (and most others) are metal against metal, so keeping them properly -- and cleanly -- lubricated is really important and will drastically increase their useful life. :teeth:

Take care brother,

Chris
 
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#15 ·
I did this at around 23K miles when I bought the truck used just for peace of mind. It was a thread similar to this that showed me how to do it when I was absolutely clueless. Thanks for the write up. After doing changing the fluid on the titan I didn't appreciate how simple the change is on our trucks. I changed the rear dif fluid on my 2000 f-150 and a friends 2009 sierra and neither of them had a drain plug. The entire case had to be removed to drain the fluid, which of course required a new gasket. We tried to change the transmission fluid on the sierra after doing the dif fluid and it was nothing but problems. Again, no drain plug...how hard is it to install a drain plug?! On top of that, the Y-pipe was about 1/4" too high and prevented the pan from being pulled out so we would have had to remove the Y-pipe from the headers just to change some fluid. Every time I work on another truck it just makes me thankful I chose to buy a titan instead of the other trucks out there. (sorry for getting a little off topic here..had to let some steam out from this weekend)
 
#17 ·
what oil did you use i assume the plug in this pick is the drain plug wheres the fill plug ?
 

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#18 ·
Is that the t-case? I only have 2wd so I wouldn't know. But these are directions for the differential.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using AutoGuide.Com Free App
 
#19 ·
yeah thats the back of the t case as you can see mine is leaking oil somewhere i hope its just from the drain plug . i know these are for the diff frank N said he changed the t case also so i was just asking him if he got back on
 
#22 ·
Thanks for the writeup, this weekend I'll get around to changing the rear diff and spark plugs at 91k. Not sure when the previous owner changed the rear diff but I've had the truck now for about 20k miles now, so I believe it's do!
 
#24 ·
Wanted to add something, in case somebody else runs into this.

When I pulled the drain plug, *nothing* came out. Like, *NOTHING*.

Turns out, I had a layer of something congealed at the bottom of the differential, blocking the opening.

After I shoved a finger through it, it gave way (with the consistency of dried-out frosting) and the oil drained.

FWIW.
 
#25 ·
I knew I had a leaking rear left seal when I bought the truck two months ago and then this week my 'service engine soon' light came on. I talked to my car guy and he said the earliest he could get it in the shop was a week from today. He also said that if the fluid ran out that a few hundred dollar repair could turn into a couple thousand...yikes. So I searched the web and found this post. THANK YOU!

An excellent how-to post. Easy to follow just from the description, and the pics helped confirm all of the steps, thanks so much. At least I now have the peace of mind that I will make it through the week until my seal can get repaired next Friday. Now I am curious about the condition of the fluids in the front differential and transfer case. Also a thanks to those who mentioned a long-term "fix" with the axle vent mod. Another day's project perhaps ;)
 
#26 ·
Hey thanks for the write up. I bought my truck used and I don't think they did regular maintenance on anything at 130,000 miles I think it needed it and Im glad I stumbled upon this. I really appreciate everyone who takes the time to do this. It helps me out. Like mentioned above mine was definitely chocolate in color and constancy so I'm glad I went ahead and did it. Thanks again
 
#27 ·
Hey guys this is a great write up, i just have a few questions. First is Lucas gear oil a good choice for the rear? Second my Titan is a used 08 with 130,000 miles and has to my knowledge never had anything changed except for oil. When doing this should i change the gasket on the cover? Also is it to late to drain the t-case and refill it?
 
#28 ·
I use AMSoil in my Titan, but if it wasn't that then I would use Mobil 1 from Wal-mart. Be sure you use 75w-140 in the rear and 75w-90 in the front (80w-90 is ok too). Just open the bottom plug and fill through the top plug. You shouldn't need to pull the cover. The plugs should have some RTV on them or some guys use teflon tape. I've used both and haven't had any leaks.

The transfer case is almost as easy to fill. Use ATF.

If you can find pumps for the bottles that makes the job a lot easier. A hose on the end of the pump tip can also make getting the fluid in easier.
 
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#30 ·
No, high miles on a transfer case won't be a problem. Do look around at the front and rear output seals on the transfer case before you begin to see if they are leaking.