[afdude2018]

I've got my new actuator. Just need to find the motivation to tear into my truck to fix this. Going to be fun since I have the Rockford Fosgate system.

 

[GT3 Tim]

I read this thread, researched online, and found the following. The below is true for my '06 CC 4x4:

Part 27743-ZH10A -- This actuator is for the fresh air/recirc air actuator. It is also referred to as the "Intake Door Motor". It is high inside the dash (near the middle) on the passenger side. The manual says to remove the heating and cooling unit assembly to replace ($$$). I also see part 27743-5Z010 listed for some applications.

Part 27743-ZP00A -- There are two of these on my truck. One is the "Defroster Door Motor", which opens/shuts that door. It is located high inside the dash (near the middle) on the drivers side. You can get to this one using the write-up on page 1. The other actuator is referred to as "Air Mix Door Motor". This one controls the temperature of the air. It is located on top of the heating and cooling unit behind the glove box. The manual says to remove the heating and cooling unit assembly to replace ($$$).

Part 27743-ZH00A-- This actuator is for the floor vent. It is also referred to it as the "Mode Door Motor". It is located on the lower drivers side of the heating and cooling unit assembly. This one is the easiest to change.

I am going to attempt to pull the dash and replace all of them. Although the manual says to pull the dash AND the heater and cooling assembly, I bet I can snake my hands in there to get to them (based on a flashlight inspection last night -- will look again today).

My Air Mix Door Motor is not working correctly and only gives me heat. It pops and clicks when I get too close to the cold mark on the dial. My Intake Door Motor doesn't do anything. My Defroster Door Motor works, but clicks like a son of a B. My Mode Door Motor actually works without a problem, but it's getting swapped out too (of course the one that is ok is the easiest to get to!).

Nissan changed some of these parts (and numbers), so thought I would update with a little info based on what I have found so far. I hope it helps others with similar issues. I will post a write-up if I decide to rip it apart.

 

[titanss]

My 04 called for the 27743-ZP00A for the Air Mix, Hot to Cold, accuator. The heater box does not need to be removed to change it, but the whole dash has to be removed to get to it.

 

[trivo]

Anyone know why my truck wouldn't be getting heat I read the threads and checked the water valve at the firewall and its not hot from either side which doesn't make since. I checked coolant level and its good and I know one of the actuator's are bad on my truck since I hear clicking noise but all the modes and defrost work so I assume its the air mix door that requires tearing out the dash. But why is there no heat going into the heater core or at the hoses on either side. Can anyone help me. I bought used and never check the heater and its never worked. 2006 Titan 4WD Crew Cab. Thanks for any suggestions.

 

[303Titanstatus]

you guys must be midgets or something cause I cant find a way to place myself so that I can get to that lower box.

 

[MississippiT]

So which one do I need? lol (or maybe two at this point)

My truck has had this problem since I bought it. When you first cut anything on.. it clicks.. About 2 minutes after you cut it off it clicks again.


Playing with it tonight.. (And I just leave it on vents most of the time so I haven't noticed this) Vents only... turns a bit then clicks.. feet only.. no clicks.. Mix between the two clicks.. Feet and defrost.. no clicks.


Please tell me its only 1.. and its the easy to get to one. lol please?

 

[Taz]

Iv'e seen several posts about the actuators but what I haven't seen are clear understandings of what each one controls. I assume each one has a specific control function and would really appreciate it if someone could post them. My issue is I don't get air flow to my feet. When I look at the actuator located above the gas pedal and turn on the key the lower flap closes then opens then the upper closes and stays closed. Any feedback would be much appreciated.

 

[Thatsgr8]

I checked the valve in the engine bay. Both tubes are hot past the valve. It was the actuator that was bad which controls the temperature door and the actuator that controls the air flow from vent to defrost. The heater actuator still has problems after installing the new one. It works, but it turns to far. I can get heat though. The other actuator that is above the driver side right foot had a broken gear inside. It was not the lower of the two, but the upper one. I replaced with a new one. That did not fix the problem the doors would not move. I pulled it out, plugged it in. Immediately it started rotating 360 degrees and would not stop. I unplugged it and then plugged it back in. It rotated the opposite direction going 360 degrees. After unplugging and plugging in it finally stopped. It reacted to the controls when I changed the control. It was 180 degrees out though. Mind you both of the actuators were purchased new at the DS on Dec 31st. I am not sure were to go from here now. Is there a way to calibrate the actuators?

 

[Joshua]

Thought it wise to post my experience with my 2005 Titan. I have been having the annoying clicking for quite some time now. Finally, the clicking stopped (yeah!), but in return, I lost air to the defrost vents. To answer everyone's questions, THERE ARE 3 HVAC ACTUATORS (at least on the 2005 model).

One is the BLEND ACTUATOR that opens and closes the door to control cold and hot. You will know that this one needs to be replaced when you have either hot or cold, but the door is stuck so that you can not have both. For this one, you need to remove the entire dash. It is found to the upper right of the center consul. I read in a post that you can access this actuator by only removing the glove box. While it may be possible, you would have to have a 2" dia arm that is 18-24" long. On top of that, you would need to do the replacement blind as you cannot see it. Point is, you need to remove the entire dash.

Another one is the LOWER MODE ACTUATOR that opens and closes the door to control the dash vents and the floor vents. You will know that this one needs to be replaced when you can use the defrost vent and either the dash or the floor vents. You will not be able to use both the dash and the floor, as the door will be stuck keeping one or the other closed. It is found just to the right of the gas pedal. You access it by removing the small left cover of the center consul (snaps right off). It is easy to access and easy to replace.

The final one is the UPPER MODE ACTUATOR that opens and closes the door to control the dash vents and the defrost vents. You will know that this one needs to be replaced when you either cannot get air through the defrost vents or the dash vents continue to blow when you have your knob turned to floor/defrost only. This one can be accessed by removing the dash panel just under the steering wheel. The actuator is located just above the gas pedal. It is difficult to get to, but with patience, a small 9/32" combination wrench, a 1/4" ratchet with a 7/32" and a 9/32" socket, you can get it out and back in. There are 3 screws. For some reason, on my truck, the two bottom screws were 9/32" and the top screw was 7/32". Chances are, after removing the actuator, the white half-circle cam plate may fall loose. You will need to realign it. When you get your new actuator ($32), you will find that the grooves may not line up. If this is the case, before you put the actuator up to the cam plate, plug in the actuator, turn on the key, and turn on the air. You will find that the actuator will begin to turn. When it does, turn off the air, but do not turn off the key. If the grooves line up, screw in the actuator. If it does not line up, turn the air back on and off until it rotates so the grooves line up. I was able to get it to line up on the first try.

Good luck, and please let me know if you have any questions.

 

[JRW160]

I've now done this twice, so I figured I should post up some pictures that might help someone else out. It's kind of a pain, but not all that bad once you figure out what you are doing. Getting the factory amp out of the way makes replacing the actuator much easier. I couldn't figure it out the first time I did this. I also purchased the wrong actuator, so I just took the old one out and left it that way. My defrost didn't work all that well, so I decided to get back under there and finally replace the actuator.

Here's how I replaced the actuator. My truck is a 2006 LE with NAV and the rockford fosgate system
1. Remove the front seat by removing the trim pieces and the four 14mm bolts. Mine also had 3 harnesses connected underneath.
2. Remove factory sub
3. Unbolt gas pedal by removing three 12mm nuts.

I threw a pillow down there the driver's seat was and did the rest of this with my head under the dash and my feet hanging out the driver's side door. I had a decent sized work light laying in the floor beside me to get some light under there.

4. Remove the two 10mm bolts holding the black box in, then disconnect the three wiring harnesses and set the black box off to the side.

5. Remove the three or four 10mm bolts holding the amp in place then disconnect the two wiring harness on the amp.
6. Getting the amp out is the trickiest part. You need to push it up and towards the driver's side of the truck to get it off the rails. It's a really tight fit, but it will go. This is how it will look off the rails. Sorry for the blurry pic.

7. Remove the amp. You may have to disconnect a few more wiring harnesses that are in the way and slide the gas pedal around. Here's what that thing looks like when you finally get it out.

8. You should have easy access to the actuator now. There are two 9/32 screws and one 7/32. The wiring harness is on the top of the actuator. I had to use an open ended wrench on one of the screws because the amp rail was in the way.

9. I ran my truck for several months with no actuator in place. In that time, the white piece that the actuator gears go into had come out of place. I removed the two 7/32 screws that are just below the actuator for better access. You can see one of them in the bottom left of the above pic. I also unplugged the lower actuator because its wires are attached to the piece I needed to move. Here's what it looks like.

10. It took me a while to figure out how to get the white piece lined up because it actually controls two levers. After getting the greasy white piece back in place and the two levers on track, replace the black piece that covers it and insert the two 7/32 screws.

11. Now you need to get the gears on the actuator turned the right way, so that it will line up with the gears on the white piece. Look at the gears on the white piece and figure out where the keyed piece needs to be on the actuator to get it in there. I had to plug in the black box from step 4 to get the truck to turn on. I then plugged in the actuator and turned the key. When the actuator got where I wanted it, I disconnected the actuator wiring harness and turned the truck off. If you just turn the truck off, the actuator will sometimes keep spinning. I then mounted the actuator by replacing the 3 screws, then plugged its wiring harness back in.

12. Replace the amp, black box, gas pedal, and any other wiring harnesses you had to disconnect.

13. Replace the sub then the front seat.

14. Your airbag light will probably be on, so you will need to go through the procedure outlined here to get it off.
http://www.titantalk.com/forums/titan-faq-howto-area/52426-air-bag-light.html#post768747

This took me about 2 hours this time. I think I could get it done in an hour and a half or so if I had to do it again. Getting that amp out of the way makes it much, much easier to get to the actuator.

 

[chadp82]

^^^^ Awful timing on that post, jk.

I did this today. Took me about 2.5 hours.

I left the amp in place, but unbolted it. By slightly moving I was able to access all the bolts. Getting the actuator in and out was tricky, it is like a nasty game of tetris, but I was able to do it.

It is done now though!

 

[Shane06fl]

I will throw this link back up.I posted it many pages back when I did mine. Remember this is for 2005 non RF. http://www.titantalk.com/forums/tit...ms/titan-faq-howto-area/141828-replacing-vent-control-actuator.html#post2651242

I will say it again. Take the seat out. If you have to pull the dash take everything out. So much nicer having all the room.

 

[Thatsgr8]

I did all that and also had to replace the one up under the dash on the passenger side so I had to remove the dash. That took me awhile. The two actuators I bought were the right ones, but did not fix the problem. The one on the upper driver-side when I plugged it in to get it correct alignment just kept spinning and spinning. Unplugged and plugged in, it spun the other way. I did get it to line up, mounted it, tested it. It rotated as far as the white gear would allow it and stopped. I could never get it to turn the other direction again. I took it off and left it so I could get air. The upper passenger side was still doing the same thing, going to far and the levers coming off track and no heat. So as many others have done, I left it hooked up and now only turn it slightly until I get heat. If I here the pop, I have to go back to cold and start over. I think it is the Controls themselves that need to be changed. There is nothing else left. Has anyone had to change the actual controls to fix the problem? Let me know. The control switches control the actuators which in fact are stepper motors. Anyone else have to do this?

 

[drparkwood]

subscribing to this thread

 

[Taz]

Thanks for the detailed instructions and pics....I am now more dangerous. Wish me luck, I'm going in!

 

[core2]

I still haven't fixed my blend door actuator that requires the dash removal. For you lazy guys with no heat, I do my little "code" I call it to get the heat to come on. Turn knob to cold as it will get, let it do the 10 clicks until it stops, turn 3 "points" towards hot and wait for pop sound. After pop sound, turn 2 points back towards cold side. Wait a few seconds, usually you'll hear a quieter pop (actuator cam plate lining up with lever again) and then you turn towards hot side and it will catch and heat should come on. I have it down so good it doesn't really bug me other than the clicking sound.

 

[Thatsgr8]

Core2 I thought mine was down to a science as well. I was afraid of breaking one of the blend door arms up under the pass side dash. I did R&R the actuator but it did n't fix the problem. I think it it the controller switch that needs replacing. I am asking for feedback if anyone else had to replace the main controller switches.

 

[chevyeatr]

Just got a dealer quote on replacing the one that controls the temperature. $530. I said **** you and hung up on him. When I went in to get my truck back he said it was behind everything, that it takes a day and a half to get the dash apart.

Did mine as it wouldnt stop clicking,, top actuator! 2 beer and 18volt Dewalt sawsall 6inch blade took top screw I couldnt get....
:bangit:Nissan engineers!! I win..lol
No more clicking!!

 

[Merritt52]

I paid 550 dollars to have mine fixed a couple years ago and it is doing it again. I am going to try and whine a bit at the dealership to get them to replace for cheaper this time. Maybe it is the second one that is bad now, but they should be smart enought to just replace the two switches when the dash is out when they are 35 dollar parts!!!

 

[jdangler]

I have to replace the dreaded air mixture actuator - I have the dash loose with the exception of the parts that connect the passenger side air bag to the dash

what is the best way to remove the air bag