I have the "mushy" brake problem also. I am old enough to remember driving full size cars without power brakes and this is exactly what my Titan brakes feel like. Besides being "mushy" it takes a considerable amount of pedal force to bring my Titan to a halt. I will probably go to a Nissan dealership soon for a Titan test drive to see if every Titan brakes like mine.

 

Sorry guys, mine brakes are fine.

Haven't noted any brake problems, SE CC 2wd. I couldn't belive the stopping power of my truck in comparison to the Tundra. WOW! Toyota has had alot of complaints about their brakes yet still kept the drum brakes on the back. I bet they change nest year.

You should check you brake levels and make sure it is full. If it is not then it is likely that what you are sensing with you foot is a small, small leak. I believe that there is a sensor to warn you of low brake level but it wouldn't hurt to check. The only other reason for a fading brake pedal are: air or water in the lines, both of which are easy to compress. (I would like to see how the bleed the brakes and lines at the factory, I bet it is neat). Good luck to you both.

 

My brakes have felt "mushy" also. I also had some vibration in the steering wheel from the brakes. See the "Brake/steering wheel vibration" thread. I took the Titan in yesterday and they found "warped pads and rotors" on the front. They replaced the pads and turned the rotors. The "mushy" feeling is gone and the brakes do feel more firm and solid. Actually feels better than when it was new. Wait and see........

 

My brakes are smooth and firm. Of course I'm comparing the Titan's to a Silverado............ :jester:

 

Mine are smooth and firm too. Lots of stopping power. It used to be a workout to get my old Ford to stop.

 

If your brakes are mushy, bleed the system.

 

:cheers: :cheers:

Anybody else have this problem?

At a dead stop, I can push hard on the brake pedal and it will keep going until it gets pretty close to the floor, or I run out of patience.

The truck stops okay, it's just that the pedal has no 'hardness' to it. It's 'kinda like stepping on a plum', to paraphrase C.J. McCall.
:eek2:

I mean, I've driven stuff with air brakes and it has this kind of feel - where the vehicle stops, (wow does it stop!) but you don't have anything 'pushing back' on your foot.

If this were not a vehicle with antilock brakes, I'd have it right in to the dealer for a safety defect. But with this one, I dunno.

Thanks in advance for your help!

Steamguy

:cheers: Nice and firm,,,so far,

 

If your brakes are mushy, bleed the system.

Has anyone tried this yet and, if so, did it help? Mine are not firm either and it does feel like air in the lines.

 

It's your brake booster, I just had mine replaced

 

I know this may sound strange, but if you have mushy brakes try this:

Turn the ignition off. Press the brake pedal as hard and as far as it will go at least a half dozen times. The manual states that with 110 lbs of force, the pedal should be within 3" of the floor. Start the truck and check the brakes. They should feel normal.

I tried this on mine and it cleared up the mushy brake problem. Now they feel normal. The Titan has self adjusting brakes...I think this might have something to do with it.

I would drive my truck with the mushy brakes, then drive my wife's car and almost throw everyone through the windshield because of the difference in stopping power.

 

no mushy brakes here. they work with almost no effort and will whip heads if pressed just a bit to far, it stops with little effort like my ol 2000lb sports car lol. not as fast but with as much ease. unlike my pissy s-10 where i have to stomp on it get it to stop lol.

 

Straight from the service manual

Has anybody experience "mushy" brakes tried this:

BRAKE BURNISHING PROCEDURE
Burnish brake contact surface according to the following procedure after refinishing or replacing rotors, after
replacing pads, or if a soft pedal occurs at very low mileage.
CAUTION:
Only perform this procedure under safe road and traffic conditions. Use extreme caution.
1. Drive the vehicle on a straight smooth road at 50 km/h (31 MPH).
2. Use medium brake pedal/foot effort to bring the vehicle to a complete stop from 50 km/h (31 MPH). Adjust
brake pedal/foot pressure such that vehicle stopping time equals 3 to 5 seconds.
3. To cool brake system, drive the vehicle at 50 km/h (31 MPH) for 1 minute without stopping.
4. Repeat steps 1 to 3, 10 times or more to complete the burnishing procedure.

 

Haven't noted any brake problems, SE CC 2wd. I couldn't belive the stopping power of my truck in comparison to the Tundra. WOW! Toyota has had alot of complaints about their brakes yet still kept the drum brakes on the back. I bet they change nest year.

Amen on the Tundra. Brakes were a major reason I am now in the Titan. I had the brake system replaced three times under warranty and had to have the rear drums adjusted every time I did an oil change.

 

Has anybody experience "mushy" brakes tried this:

BRAKE BURNISHING PROCEDURE
Burnish brake contact surface according to the following procedure after refinishing or replacing rotors, after
replacing pads, or if a soft pedal occurs at very low mileage.
<SNIP>

This is for new parts break-in. New brakes should always be broken in by the shop, never the Customer unless you have a particularly knowledgeable customer.

The conditions we're describing here indicate air in the system, or possibly a bad booster.

The post about bleeding the power from the booster and then allowing it to come back has a lot of merit. Come to think of it, I had a Hydra-Vac (GM) booster that I recovered this way. Was just a stuck valve, came unstuck once recovered.

Will let you know,

Steamguy

 

This is for new parts break-in. New brakes should always be broken in by the shop, never the Customer unless you have a particularly knowledgeable customer.

The conditions we're describing here indicate air in the system, or possibly a bad booster.

The post about bleeding the power from the booster and then allowing it to come back has a lot of merit. Come to think of it, I had a Hydra-Vac (GM) booster that I recovered this way. Was just a stuck valve, came unstuck once recovered.

Will let you know,

Steamguy

If we only lived in a perfect world, all services tech would do all steps required in service manuals. If the shop does break-in the brakes wouldnt they have also bled the system? I did have mushy brakes. I followed the steps to burnish the brakes and now they are as good as my wife's honda accord.

 

I know this may sound strange, but if you have mushy brakes try this:

Turn the ignition off. Press the brake pedal as hard and as far as it will go at least a half dozen times. The manual states that with 110 lbs of force, the pedal should be within 3" of the floor. Start the truck and check the brakes. They should feel normal.

I tried this on mine and it cleared up the mushy brake problem. Now they feel normal. The Titan has self adjusting brakes...I think this might have something to do with it.

I would drive my truck with the mushy brakes, then drive my wife's car and almost throw everyone through the windshield because of the difference in stopping power.

ALW, I don't know if it's "strange" :jester: but I tried your method and it's much firmer for 2 days now. Actually I can hear the sound of released air from somewhere down by the brake pedal right after the first pump. Good tip, thanks.

I have a feeling if you do mainly streets driving with lots of light brakings (my case), it'll go mushy. But I know how to "adjust" it now :cheers:

 

Anybody else have this problem?

At a dead stop, I can push hard on the brake pedal and it will keep going until it gets pretty close to the floor, or I run out of patience.

The truck stops okay, it's just that the pedal has no 'hardness' to it. It's 'kinda like stepping on a plum', to paraphrase C.J. McCall.
:eek2:

I mean, I've driven stuff with air brakes and it has this kind of feel - where the vehicle stops, (wow does it stop!) but you don't have anything 'pushing back' on your foot.

If this were not a vehicle with antilock brakes, I'd have it right in to the dealer for a safety defect. But with this one, I dunno.

Thanks in advance for your help!

Steamguy

Steamguy,

Any luck with this problem? I seem to have the same condition. Truck stops fine but at a stop it feels like I can bottom out the pedal if I keep pushing harder. I did notice that on hard braking on the freeway I really had to put my foot into it. I may get it checked out soon.

Alan

 

Read this post guys!! http://www.titantalk.com/showthread.php?t=10535

When i first read it i figured a isolated insident because all breaking systems are designed the same way on all vehicles. after reading your post's i would definantly have this checked out. It could be a design problem. Sounds like not large enough master cylinder for size of vehicle. Or if its computerized it needs a flow adjustment. dont take it lightly. Get it fixed...

 

ALW, I don't know if it's "strange" :jester: but I tried your method and it's much firmer for 2 days now. Actually I can hear the sound of released air from somewhere down by the brake pedal right after the first pump. Good tip, thanks.

I have a feeling if you do mainly streets driving with lots of light brakings (my case), it'll go mushy. But I know how to "adjust" it now :cheers:

i also tried this procedure and there was a difference. not sure what happened but that sure goes with the adjustable brake theory

 

I am glad it works for you too. Mine made a huge difference and is still firm from the first "adjustment".

Edit: I just noticed the brake fluid resevoir was low after the "fix". Don't know if it had been low before but it may comfirm air was in the lines.

 

it works..... tighter brakes

Thanks alw,
My brakes were not bad, but I did try the ignition off stomp 6 times....
My brakes have been firmer for a couple days now.

 

Thanks alw,
My brakes were not bad, but I did try the ignition off stomp 6 times....
My brakes have been firmer for a couple days now.

hey guys my breaks got mushy after 2500 miles all i did was pump my e brake a dozen or so times , its the way you adjust many rear disc cars or trucks just give it a try ,my pedals right on top again and no longer going down as far .

 

There is a procedure in the owners manual for the pumping/checking of the brake system...its also in the doc that was just posted over in the towing thread currently running (328 page doc). Chris

 

There is a procedure in the owners manual for the pumping/checking of the brake system...its also in the doc that was just posted over in the towing thread currently running (328 page doc). Chris

Where is the towing thread that you refer to?? Can't seem to find it.

 

any way you cut it, these brakes are a little mushier than they should be. should be able to achieve a hard pedal high up. Its designed in but probably not on purpose. You can do that procedure and they feel better but it still ain't right. nissan is unlikely to do anything for us. after I get some other stuff done this first year, I'm gonna get some braided steel brake hoses and DOT 4 brake fluid and see if that makes any difference. It has on other vehicles I've owned. I pinched the stock hoses on the Titan and they do feel a bit softer than others so maybe there is some element of mushiness that can be taken out by changing them.

juma