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noob here. my first nissan. 2008 titan le dual climate control passenger side wont blow as hot as driver side with both set at 90*. both will switch from hot to cold when i select between 90* to 60* but passenger is merely luke warm compared to the drivers side. blend door sticking ? location of actuator motor under dash ? any help appreciated. thanks.
 
It's in the upper 30s today here in NE Georgia and this entire winter my family has suffered in the 06 Armada with intermittent heat. This past weekend I was all gung ho ready to tackle this job and discovered I was just low on coolant. Filled the reservoir up to the max line and had head instantly. Just hoping I'm not leaking coolant anywhere.
 
Here's a picture of what it looks like installed it works if you don't mind turning it on and off manually in winter/summer. Save $100+ on the same cheap nissan part. $10 and call it a day.
The second pic in this makes me wonder if i could just buy the replcment part and take it apart as well and just swap out the acuator....anyone done this yet????
 
I also opted out of buying a new plastic piece of junk and spend a few hundred dollars and a day at the dealer.(thanks by the way for pointing out the fix)
I looked into installing a ball valve as well but found it to be too much work (Im extremely lazy)
My solution was to take out the cover, cut the top of where the valve gear sits inside the cover (pivot point) just enough to open it up but not ruin the weather seal and make a slit on the plastic gear using a dremel or a hot knife to fit a flat head screwdriver (in order to use it as a handle).
Put everything back together leaving out the useless shaft.
Use a small flat head screwdriver to operate it (quarter turn) ( I _ )
Should take about 10 minutes and works good

PS if you plan to drive your truck underwater it might be a good idea to put some silicon around the pivot point but it doesn't really matter because you are no longer using the electrical part. You might also want to remove and seal the plug to the bottom right of the assembly
Hope this helps someone
 
Anyone got an old actuator assembly lying around? Doesn't matter if it isn't working. The valve on mine quit on me because the tiny worm gear on the electric motor broke and slid out of place. Tried to superglue it back in place but it flew off to oblivion while I was trying to put it back.

Let me know if you have one lying around, all I need is the tiny white worm gear....

Thanks!!

-S

P.S. Gates (the hose and belt manufacturer) now manufactures the entire hose/actuator assembly for around $60-$70. Saw some floating around on ebay - gates part number 23797
 
Has anyone ever heard fluid moving from what sounds like under the dash, prior to losing heat? I have a 2011 Armada that has been making that noise for a bit, then today, no heat. Thanks for the post, I will look into the shaft tomorrow, I am just curious if (how) the two are related.
Thanks
 
Discussion starter · #107 ·
Sounds are often produced when there is air in the coolant lines. No air in the line means no space for fluids to slosh around.
 
Do you have the pictures on this, I can't see them in the thread. I have this problem on my 2011 Titan. thanks Don

I found that my heat isn't working, work perfect last winter.

Water valve or control valve (whatever you call it) is junk. Made of all plastic.

I found it here. Against the firewall and easy to reach.
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Opened it up, turned the heat on and it did nothing. I touched it and the gears began to turn. Did this a couple times to "loosen it up".
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Took it for a test drive. turned the heat off and on several times and it died again.

So I manually opened it by removing the shaft and turning the top gear counter clockwise.
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I put it all together, minus the shaft piece. And there you have it just save $$$$.

This will go in the glove box for future use. :)
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Discussion starter · #109 ·
Photo bucket has turned into the biggest rip-off on the web.:flame:
 

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So I did this 2 weeks ago and had really good heat. Now, I don't have heat again. Everyone just say to turn it "counter-clockwise" but how far? If you take the plastic gear in front of the valve control off, you can see a slot that a screwdriver would fit in and you turn, which position should this be in?

I believe I turned the longest part towards the left last time but when I checked again today, it was still in the same position. Can anyone confirm?

I am going to burp the system in the meantime.
 
Discussion starter · #112 ·
Open the valve all the way. Half turned is only half open and could be restricting water flow.
 
I have been driving all winter with mine broken, turned to on. now its hot here in GA and i have 2 questions:

1) during normal operation (valve working as it should), with the valve closed (warm weather running A/C), is there Zero Flow through the core? does the return end from the heater core just suck air?could it damage anything if i do a ball valve (here in GA i dont use much heat)?

2) people have said the dont see "much" differance in A/C performance with it permanently turned to open, but does anyone know just how "much". if it isnt worth it, ill just leave it open, if not, i will probably turn mine back to closed for summer, but i dont want to starve the core/ engine of coolant: see question 1.

thanks a lot!
 
Discussion starter · #114 ·
I have left my valve open for years now.

The problem with closing it during the summer is that your defroster will not work with it closed.
 
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Having this problem with the 04 Armada, but mine has the solenoid valve instead of the plastic parts. I was driving along, stopped the car, and when I started up again no heat. Is there a different fix for the solenoid type or do I need to change the type of valve? Or could it be a problem with the actuator on the driver's side? Any help would be great!
 
Remove that long molded hose and shut off valve, replace with a piece of hose from local parts store and leave the valve out. Problem fixed for under $10


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