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No Heat...Fixed

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#121 ·
For a temporary fix, get a ball valve with suitable sized ends and connect the inlet hoses to it. Crack the ball valve an amount that gives you the required heat in the cabin. This is a temporary fix and will get you by until you want a more elegant fix. I used a brass ball valve from HD on a 94 Altima for two years and managed without a fix until I donated the car (with disclosure of the rigged fix) to a tech school.
 
#123 ·
I found this thread after my heat went out last week. Then the next day it was fine. Then it went out again today. Plus, I've had the classic grinding sound in the dash when the heat is on for a couple of years now.

Rather than messing with a temporary fix, I ordered the part brand new, the Nissan Hose Assembly Inlet.

So my question is.... how hard is the install?
 
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#124 ·
The part you ordered is under the hood, right? That's not the source of your dash clicking noise. The hose swap looks relatively painless depending on your abilities. I was going to replace the hoses back there on my 2006 but they looked OK so I left them

Sent from my G3123 using Tapatalk
 
#125 ·
titan14 said:
The part you ordered is under the hood, right? That's not the source of your dash clicking noise. The hose swap looks relatively painless depending on your abilities. I was going to replace the hoses back there on my 2006 but they looked OK so I left them

Sent from my G3123 using Tapatalk
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Thanks. Will I have to do anything as far as water levels and such?
 
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#126 ·
I just want to make sure I’m reading all this correctly, I think I’m having the same problem. My blower works, in all settings (defrost or floor or vents etc.) the engine temp is normal, no leaks but as of tonight (it was working last night) it will not blow hot air! (Not even like warm). The hose going to top of the radiator and to the over flow container are hot as expected. The heater core hoses on both/either side of the black block (the one pictured above) that is connecting them are NOT hot!!! Is this the same problem/solution everyone is having??
 
#127 ·
Schruminator said:
I just want to make sure I’m reading all this correctly, I think I’m having the same problem. My blower works, in all settings (defrost or floor or vents etc.) the engine temp is normal, no leaks but as of tonight (it was working last night) it will not blow hot air! (Not even like warm). The hose going to top of the radiator and to the over flow container are hot as expected. The heater core hoses on both/either side of the black block (the one pictured above) that is connecting them are NOT hot!!! Is this the same problem/solution everyone is having??
Click to expand...
In my case, the hoses on both sides of the above unit are hot, but the blower is blowing cold air (sometimes).
 
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#128 ·
HighMilesTitan said:
Thanks. Will I have to do anything as far as water levels and such?
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If you can use a catch pan, collect the coolant that drains, and dump it back into the rad or overflow tank when finished. If not, service as normal which will require an amount equal to what you spill
 
#129 ·
Schruminator said:
I just want to make sure I’m reading all this correctly, I think I’m having the same problem. My blower works, in all settings (defrost or floor or vents etc.) the engine temp is normal, no leaks but as of tonight (it was working last night) it will not blow hot air! (Not even like warm). The hose going to top of the radiator and to the over flow container are hot as expected. The heater core hoses on both/either side of the black block (the one pictured above) that is connecting them are NOT hot!!! Is this the same problem/solution everyone is having??
Click to expand...
I dont know what picture your referencing, but hoses should be hot.
 
#130 ·
Schruminator said:
I just want to make sure I’m reading all this correctly, I think I’m having the same problem. My blower works, in all settings (defrost or floor or vents etc.) the engine temp is normal, no leaks but as of tonight (it was working last night) it will not blow hot air! (Not even like warm). The hose going to top of the radiator and to the over flow container are hot as expected. The heater core hoses on both/either side of the black block (the one pictured above) that is connecting them are NOT hot!!! Is this the same problem/solution everyone is having??
Click to expand...
The most common cause of no heat, to the best of my knowledge, is the hot/cold air mix actuator , under the dash, malfunctioning. Its typically associated with a clicking noise from the actuator mechanism slipping.
 
#131 ·
Update: I sent a cancellation request on that heater hose order. I want to try the "tweak" in this thread first, since I don't technically know if this is the problem. If it is, I'll probably go ahead and get the part.
 
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#132 ·
Update #2 : Took the shaft out and turned the top gear counterclockwise. Drove several miles, switching between heat and A/C. All appears well.

It's 63 degrees here right now. If I find that the A/C isn't up to muster when the hot weather arrives, I'll probably buy the part from Amazon for $104.00 and have a dealer install it.


Or.... if my cancellation doesn't go through in time, I'll have the part anyway.

:)
 
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#133 ·
I took the cover off the box on the heater core hoses, pulled the shaft that goes top to bottom at an angle with gears on both ends,lost one of the gears in there and used a screw driver to turn it counter clockwise and it instantly started flowing and heating. That was the problem in my case. Cycled back and forth several times from hot to cold and it worked like normal. Tried the ac and it seemed to work. ?? Thanks for the input and help. Much appreciated!!??
 
#134 ·
Schruminator said:
I took the cover off the box on the heater core hoses, pulled the shaft that goes top to bottom at an angle with gears on both ends,lost one of the gears in there and used a screw driver to turn it counter clockwise and it instantly started flowing and heating. That was the problem in my case. Cycled back and forth several times from hot to cold and it worked like normal. Tried the ac and it seemed to work. ?? Thanks for the input and help. Much appreciated!!??
Click to expand...
I've posted earlier about this. It's a simple stuck water (coolant) valve, stuck because it was left in one position too long. In my case in SC, closed, for Air Cond. Sorry you lost the little gear. The other problem is because Nissan's nomenclature calls it a hose assembly, instead of a control valve, which it is. BTW, yes, some vehicles have hot coolant flowing in the coil in the cabin at all times, but they deflect the heat with doors. Ours does not. If coolant is flowing, you will feel the heat.
 
#136 · (Edited)
Lost my heat as well. Dealer says it is a heat pump and wants $450 to RR. I find nothing, no pump or part number for anything remotely called a heat pump. I am thinking that the Hose-Heater, Inlet, which has the electronic valve in the middle, PN# 92400-ZT10A for my 2010 Titan LE will do the trick.
It is an easy test taking off the cover to check the worm drive (Shaft) and gears. Has anyone actually replaced the hose and valve assembly? Rockauto has it for $70. Doesn't look hard but just curious if the hose clamps are hard to get to from the engine compartment or if I can do it from underneath.

Thanks in advance...
 
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