Ford added dual fuel injection systems to deal with this issue.
From my research, catch cans are snake oil.
The best prevention is keeping up with regular maintenance and a little spirited driving from time to time (full throttle applications on on-ramps for example).
Older oil breaks down and create more particulates which stick to valves.
Cleaning valves (if it gets to that point) is still much cheaper than repairing a secondary injection system.
I have also read that these cans will void warranty.
Save yourself $300.


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I never gave one thought for my trucks but do have one in my Challenger, it collects about 3/4-1 inch of oil in the cup every 1000 miles. If you’ve ever seen an engine tear down comparison of a can vs a non can, you’d be amazed at how much cleaner the entire valvetrain and intake is. No, they do not void a warranty as they don’t alter anything and if you had to take the truck in for repair you’d simply remove it for that period of time and they’d never have a clue it was ever there. I had one on each bank of my Mustang Coyote engine and you know who placed them there? They were put there by Rousch Racing when I trailered the car there to have the engine done, Nissan techs will never know a fraction what that shop knows. What a great experience it was going there.

Clint

 

Use this every 10 to 15k as preventative...

 

On a boosted engine they make sense as there is a lot of blow by.
I’ve seen videos where guys pull what looks like 1/2 a cup of liquid but this is usually just water as there is significantly more moisture in the incoming air than oil particulates.

I don’t know about the teardown comparisons though but I would be skeptical unless I was sure the person doing the comparison was not motivated to sell these cans.

What Kenedy posted could be just as good as having port injection.

I’m not saying the cans won’t make a difference, I just don’t think they’re required.


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I had a catch can on my '12 F150 with 5 liter V8 and was always amazed/concerned on how much oil it collected every 1000 miles.

 

I had the intake off my 14 not long ago and was disgusted as to how much gunk had built up. I do regular maintenance at more frequent than recommended intervals and drive with a spirited heavy foot. I can't talk for the direct injection aspect, but imagine a catch can couldn't hurt. I plan to install one on mone soon

 

When I was looking at trucks the F150 was high on my list and I found many videos/comments/reviews on how those engines really needed them because of the buildup on the valves. Seems like it was always the just the valves right next to where it was being routed back in and it did take quite a few miles for it to happen.

Whether the 5.6 needs one would (I'm guessing) probably depend on where it's being routed back in. I plan on having mine around for a long while so it seems like a smart move, but $300 seems a little pricey for such a simple product. I guess these are universal fit?

 

Just read this in an article about the 3.5 eco boost motor (this year range pre dates the port injection update they added in 2017).

Induction Cleaning Mistakes
The 3.5L has not had many issues with carbon build-up on the intake valves. But some DIY owners will use induction cleaners that are injected into the intake. These types of cleaners can damage the turbochargers’ bearings, seals and turbines. The best advice is to use high-quality fuel. Also, Ford has released new PCV parts and PCM calibrations to reduce the amount crankcase vapor ingested into the intake. See TSB 15-0003 for more information.

Source
https://www.underhoodservice.com/ford-3-5l-ecoboost-common-problems/

If this boosted engine doesn’t need a can, I imagine our engines are fine. Good fuel appears to help.

Does anyone have a scope they would be willing to shove into the intake of their engine?
[emoji16]



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Just read this in an article about the 3.5 eco boost motor (this year range pre dates the port injection update they added in 2017).

Induction Cleaning Mistakes
The 3.5L has not had many issues with carbon build-up on the intake valves. But some DIY owners will use induction cleaners that are injected into the intake. These types of cleaners can damage the turbochargers’ bearings, seals and turbines. The best advice is to use high-quality fuel. Also, Ford has released new PCV parts and PCM calibrations to reduce the amount crankcase vapor ingested into the intake. See TSB 15-0003 for more information.

Source
https://www.underhoodservice.com/ford-3-5l-ecoboost-common-problems/

If this boosted engine doesn’t need a can, I imagine our engines are fine. Good fuel appears to help.

Does anyone have a scope they would be willing to shove into the intake of their engine?
[emoji16]

I do and plan on looking once I find a way to route

 

Safest routing would be to pull the throttle body and go in that way. Or, if your camera is small enough to get in through one of the vacuum ports without breaking the port (or the camera), that's an option.

 

I think it's a great idea in race cars, forced induction and high performance cars that see a lot of time at 100% WOT and high rpm's more that 50% of their time.

I think of it this way, with our Titans. If you don't have to add oil between oil changes and the oil level on the dipstick is always on the full line. You aren't getting blow by so no catch can required. If you're driving your vehicle hard enough that you are using oil and it doesn't appear to be exiting through the exhaust or dripping from a leaky oil pan a catch can seems like a item you should put more thought into.

 

In my experience catch cans are a good thing to have. On my mustang I saw how much oil was getting into the intake. And after installing one there was zero.

 

Direct injection will always have buildup. Inherent design theme if not port and di. Dude how will you look at them?

 

Will see if I can wiggle this baby thru the intake...

 

Ok I tried.... Could not get the camera head to slip down any of the intake runners.

Need a slimmer extension with smaller camera head. The camera head would get ****ed when I tried to push down a runner..

Good news is the interior of the intake seems really clean with no sludge or deposits. I checked my 17 Titan with 26k

 

^^ Yikes, I'm thinking I would have removed the TB. I'm not sure if the procedure on the 2nd gens is the same as the first, but I'd try the pedal reset procedure for the ECU and the throttle position relearn after moving the throttle plate.

 

Shes good.. U can move that plate all day long just gotta make sure ignition is off....

Im seriously thinking about drilling a hole above a runner so the camera will have a straight shot down to the valve.. Will tap the hole for a bolt so I can inspect regularly..

 

Check this thread out.....

https://forums.nicoclub.com/intake-valve-and-port-pictures-t612859.html

 

More good info...

https://www.enginebuildermag.com/2015/01/direct-injection-engines-carbon-deposits/

 

Also the BMW guys use walnut blasting at pretty frequent intervals on their DI engines, and the valves come out looking like new. You'd need to fashion some sort of shroud that fit over each LIM runner to do so, but that shouldn't be too hard.

https://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1437656

 

Based off all im reading I think I will wait until I get the deposit symtoms then just pull the intake and manually clean...

Seems like we are good until about 100k...

 

Kenedy



Direct injection does squirt gas or additives onto the intake valve. This product won't work.

Port injection does this. Not DI.


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No, I did not but will look into it.

 

Has anyone had issues with the carbon build up on their Titans? Can anyone take a picture to show where you should spray the intake cleaner spray? Thanks.

 

The cleaner does nothing. There is a post of blasting it off with walnut shells.

 

you can google cell phone boroscope and get one that plugs into your cell and is small enough to go through a port on your intake manifold. that big inspection camera is way to thick to make any tight turns and is more similar to a sewer pipe inspection camera, or for looking in large things. just get a small 20 dollar boroscope from amazon for your phone, they are really a hell of a deal for the cost.

i have one i bought, probably 7 or 8 years ago, just messing around. it showed up and the cord is five foot in length and the thickness of your cable for charging your phone. the lens head is a hair thicker and it goes down ports on engines and through runners very easily because it is very flexible.

we use 10-15k dollar boroscopes at work for inspecting oil passages on helicopter transmissions, gearboxes, and looking into the hot and cold sections of turbine engines for damage or contamination. they break very easily because the heads are steerable to make very tight turns in the passages and let you zoom and video/snap pictures. that 20 dollar one, minus the steering, does all the same stuff. its not a 1 or 2mm head, maybe 4mm but that's pretty good for anything us home guys are doing

 

Idk about the new VK's but I run an oil catch can on my '05. I've had it installed for yrs and it helps IMO.

I definitely won't call them "snake oil".

Mine works great and I empty it out every time I do an oil change.

I have pic's of what comes out of mine after about 4-5K miles.

It's also good maintenance to replace the PCV valves every so often.

 

Just a thought, and correct me if I'm wrong. Can't we just plug the hose going in to intake and just let the pcv hose vent to atmosphere? No need for a catch can, and not gumming up valves?

 

The system needs manifold vacuum to work.

 

Yup. That vacuum from the intake is what releases the excess air pressure from the block so you don't get leaks at each seal and o-ring. That's why when people don't keep up on replacing their pcv valves, the engine runs bad and then starts leaking oil from different places.

That vacuum pulls the little ball up in the pcv when the engine is running so the heated expanding air in the crank case goes somewhere. That's why the easy check for a malfunctioning pcv valve is to shake it. No rattle means the valve is stuck open or closed. Rattle means everything is working properly