I know this is ghetto, but I have some pics of my recent sub install but I dont have any place to host them. If anyone may be kind enough to host them for me, please email me at jsills@hot.rr.com or reply here. Thanks a lot. If I cant find anyone, I will delete this thread.

Here you go..Peanutbutter's pictures

 

I know this is ghetto, but I have some pics of my recent sub install but I dont have any place to host them. If anyone may be kind enough to host them for me, please email me at jsills@hot.rr.com or reply here. Thanks a lot. If I cant find anyone, I will delete this thread.

Here you go

 

I know this is ghetto, but I have some pics of my recent sub install but I dont have any place to host them. If anyone may be kind enough to host them for me, please email me at jsills@hot.rr.com or reply here. Thanks a lot. If I cant find anyone, I will delete this thread.

and more pictures

 

Where did you run your low's from? For subwoofer rear with fade?

 

How does that Infinity sub sound? I've been wondering about it for a while, and have never had the chance to hear one.

 

First of all, thank you very much LizardKing.

I used a LOC and just tied it in with the rear speakers. I am very suprised by how it sounds. It sounds great. I am pretty sure it is because of the open cabin, but it is really nice. I used to run this setup in my Altima, and it was good, but not as good as this. You can do better with 2 subs, but not as good as this sub with the space. As you can see, it doesnt really take up any space at all. The back seat is completely down. One of the hardest installs I have ever done due to my inexperience with LOC's. Didnt have a problem with it, just took longer than I thought. Also, my RCA's were pretty short so I had to redesign my whole install.

-Here are the cable colors (for XE CC w/ popular package):
Black/Yellow = Left Rear + This tied into the white cable on the LOC
Blue = Left Rear - white/black on LOC
Red/Blue = Right Rear + Gray on LOC
Orange/Blue - Right Rear - Gray/black on LOC
-All of these wires can be found on the far right plug on the back of the stereo with only 4 wires run into it.
Purple - 12V ignition (remote) Run to the amp down right side with RCA's.
Brown - Ground Brown on LOC
-These wires can be found on the plug next to the plug above.
-RCA's were plugged into the LOC and ran to the amp down the right side of vehicle.
-I tied the ground for the amp into the front right seat. Back right bolt for the seat. Cleaned the paint off.
-Ran 4gauge from the battery to a distro block. The power run was tricky. I had to come from the right side, to the left side (went right behind the front cup holders), then down the left side back to the right side.
-Never want to run power next to audio/video for more than 3 feet unless perpendicular.

Also, I have a question:
During the install, I ran a quick test. Well, the stereo would not come on. I was highly confused. Checked every cable, but to no avail I could not figure it out. I figured I did something bad. I looked at the antenna cable, and it was not plugged in. I did not think this was a big deal. However, I plugged it in and everything worked. Stock or aftermarket, I have never had to plug in an antenna to have the stereo come on. I found this very weird. It seems that the antenna is transferring a signal other than FM/AM. I know it might be a security issue, but I found it odd. May be what is causing the low FM/AM signal. Just a theory.

 

First of all, thank you very much LizardKing.

I used a LOC and just tied it in with the rear speakers. I am very suprised by how it sounds. It sounds great. I am pretty sure it is because of the open cabin, but it is really nice. I used to run this setup in my Altima, and it was good, but not as good as this. You can do better with 2 subs, but not as good as this sub with the space. As you can see, it doesnt really take up any space at all. The back seat is completely down. One of the hardest installs I have ever done due to my inexperience with LOC's. Didnt have a problem with it, just took longer than I thought. Also, my RCA's were pretty short so I had to redesign my whole install.

-Here are the cable colors (for XE CC w/ popular package):
Black/Yellow = Left Rear + This tied into the white cable on the LOC
Blue = Left Rear - white/black on LOC
Red/Blue = Right Rear + Gray on LOC
Orange/Blue - Right Rear - Gray/black on LOC
-All of these wires can be found on the far right plug on the back of the stereo with only 4 wires run into it.
Purple - 12V ignition (remote) Run to the amp down right side with RCA's.
Brown - Ground Brown on LOC
-These wires can be found on the plug next to the plug above.
-RCA's were plugged into the LOC and ran to the amp down the right side of vehicle.
-I tied the ground for the amp into the front right seat. Back right bolt for the seat. Cleaned the paint off.
-Ran 4gauge from the battery to a distro block. The power run was tricky. I had to come from the right side, to the left side (went right behind the front cup holders), then down the left side back to the right side.
-Never want to run power next to audio/video for more than 3 feet unless perpendicular.

Also, I have a question:
During the install, I ran a quick test. Well, the stereo would not come on. I was highly confused. Checked every cable, but to no avail I could not figure it out. I figured I did something bad. I looked at the antenna cable, and it was not plugged in. I did not think this was a big deal. However, I plugged it in and everything worked. Stock or aftermarket, I have never had to plug in an antenna to have the stereo come on. I found this very weird. It seems that the antenna is transferring a signal other than FM/AM. I know it might be a security issue, but I found it odd. May be what is causing the low FM/AM signal. Just a theory.

What do you think of this? I want to disconnect the two wires going into the factory sub under seat and run them to my MONO Subwoofer amp inputs and just run a seperate more powerful sub... I have a Bazooka tube I gutted out and put in a 10inch Rockford Power Sub dual 4ohms putting 500watt RMS and 1000watt peak. The amp I have is rated 1250watts at 1ohm RMS at 12volts.. Of course I will be putting 14volts to it so I'm lookng at 1400watts or more at 1ohm load.. The sub I will wire in parellel for 2ohm load which the amp is rated at 700 watts @12volts with 2hom load... Should thump mighty good

 

Are you gonna LOC the cables off of the amp, or just put them as speaker level inputs? You are gonna run seperate power and ground right? I suggest 4 gauge or bigger. I didnt need 4 gauge, but I may upgrade later on. I used a 1/2 drill bit to get that cable through. It may be different with every wire because I used welding lead. If you get all those bases covered, I think it will sound awesome. Like I said, with the cabin being that open, there is a lot of air movement. Also, with the all the windows down, it sounds even better. Good luck.

P.S: I will never upgrade my stock speakers. Here is my reasoning:
Once you put a sub in, you basically take most of your bass off the stocks. Therefore, you only use them as treble. Now, if you have a big system, then upgrade as the sub will overpower the highs. However, in this case, everything blends nicely. I have the bass at -3 on the head, and it is almost too much. I will probably have to adjust the gains some more.

Note: Best part about this whole thing, it sounds like crap from the outside of the truck. This is an SQ (sound quality) based sub, so it plays rock, classic, jazz, and even rap very well. The sub will drop to 25hz if needed. I just played some test tones, and it is tuned to about 38hz. Sounds great. Very punchy and can get low. Might seats do vibrate somewhat, but my mirror is pretty solid. Great sub. I have the older one, the newer ones have a remote punch bass. A great spot for the controller would be one of the blanks on your dash. By blanks, I mean an controller or accessory that did not come with your truck. I put my wifes by her interior light dimmer. Had to take the bass controller apart and make some mods to the blank, but it fit. This was for a Rockford Fosgate 801s amp and controller. Very clean.

 

Are you gonna LOC the cables off of the amp, or just put them as speaker level inputs? You are gonna run seperate power and ground right? I suggest 4 gauge or bigger. I didnt need 4 gauge, but I may upgrade later on. I used a 1/2 drill bit to get that cable through. It may be different with every wire because I used welding lead. If you get all those bases covered, I think it will sound awesome. Like I said, with the cabin being that open, there is a lot of air movement. Also, with the all the windows down, it sounds even better. Good luck.

P.S: I will never upgrade my stock speakers. Here is my reasoning:
Once you put a sub in, you basically take most of your bass off the stocks. Therefore, you only use them as treble. Now, if you have a big system, then upgrade as the sub will overpower the highs. However, in this case, everything blends nicely. I have the bass at -3 on the head, and it is almost too much. I will probably have to adjust the gains some more.

Note: Best part about this whole thing, it sounds like crap from the outside of the truck. This is an SQ (sound quality) based sub, so it plays rock, classic, jazz, and even rap very well. The sub will drop to 25hz if needed. I just played some test tones, and it is tuned to about 38hz. Sounds great. Very punchy and can get low. Might seats do vibrate somewhat, but my mirror is pretty solid. Great sub. I have the older one, the newer ones have a remote punch bass. A great spot for the controller would be one of the blanks on your dash. By blanks, I mean an controller or accessory that did not come with your truck. I put my wifes by her interior light dimmer. Had to take the bass controller apart and make some mods to the blank, but it fit. This was for a Rockford Fosgate 801s amp and controller. Very clean.

I probably will use my old setup 0-gauge wire to amp and 10gauge to the sub..

 

Sounds killer. I have heard a similiar sub setup with but it had an Kicker CompVR in a basstube. Sounded great. I hope everything works out. Let me know if you need anything or have any questions.

 

Sounds killer. I have heard a similiar sub setup with but it had an Kicker CompVR in a basstube. Sounded great. I hope everything works out. Let me know if you need anything or have any questions.

Will do, like you I worry about overpowering my highs and mids with bass. I should be able to use my gain to adjust level....thanks!

 

P.S: I will never upgrade my stock speakers. Here is my reasoning:
Once you put a sub in, you basically take most of your bass off the stocks. Therefore, you only use them as treble.

Not neccessarily. In my old truck, frontier, i had a sub in it and i upgraded my door speakers. I put in infinity component speakers and the sound was awesome. I did use them mainly for treble, but the sound was so clear and crisp, just incredible. That's the only thing about my titan, i really miss my old system.

 

Not neccessarily. In my old truck, frontier, i had a sub in it and i upgraded my door speakers. I put in infinity component speakers and the sound was awesome. I did use them mainly for treble, but the sound was so clear and crisp, just incredible. That's the only thing about my titan, i really miss my old system.

Well it is really a matter of taste. I think the speakers in the Titan sound fine. The stocks are not that bad compared to other car companies. They give me what I was looking for so I am happy. I just cant justify spending $150 on Infinity 6x9's just for more treble. I love Infinity, very quality products (hence the sub).

Next project, convincing the wife to let me get that Kenwood 2-din screen/receiver. :teethmast

 

Are you gonna LOC the cables off of the amp, or just put them as speaker level inputs? You are gonna run seperate power and ground right? I suggest 4 gauge or bigger. I didnt need 4 gauge, but I may upgrade later on. I used a 1/2 drill bit to get that cable through. It may be different with every wire because I used welding lead. If you get all those bases covered, I think it will sound awesome. Like I said, with the cabin being that open, there is a lot of air movement. Also, with the all the windows down, it sounds even better. Good luck..

Be careful PB. Make sure you use either a rubber grommet or snap bushing where you drilled your hole for the wire. the wire insulation rubbing up against a raw metal edge is dangerous, even though you have a fuse at the battery.

P.S: I will never upgrade my stock speakers. Here is my reasoning:
Once you put a sub in, you basically take most of your bass off the stocks. Therefore, you only use them as treble. Now, if you have a big system, then upgrade as the sub will overpower the highs. However, in this case, everything blends nicely. I have the bass at -3 on the head, and it is almost too much. I will probably have to adjust the gains some more..

Again, be careful PB. Unless you installed some capacitors or "bass blockers" on your highs you have not removed any bass from them. Installing a sub with an LOC does not mean you have removed the low frequencies from your highs. Once you add some capacitors you should be ready to go.

Note: Best part about this whole thing, it sounds like crap from the outside of the truck. This is an SQ (sound quality) based sub, so it plays rock, classic, jazz, and even rap very well. The sub will drop to 25hz if needed. I just played some test tones, and it is tuned to about 38hz. Sounds great. Very punchy and can get low. Might seats do vibrate somewhat, but my mirror is pretty solid. Great sub. I have the older one, the newer ones have a remote punch bass. A great spot for the controller would be one of the blanks on your dash. By blanks, I mean an controller or accessory that did not come with your truck. I put my wifes by her interior light dimmer. Had to take the bass controller apart and make some mods to the blank, but it fit. This was for a Rockford Fosgate 801s amp and controller. Very clean.

The best part is that it sounds like crap from outside? That may just eliminate 99% of the people from wanting to perform the same upgrade. But if it sounds good inside that is what should really matter.... :teethmast

 

Be careful PB. Make sure you use either a rubber grommet or snap bushing where you drilled your hole for the wire. the wire insulation rubbing up against a raw metal edge is dangerous, even though you have a fuse at the battery.

Appreciate the pointer, I have a rubber passthrough, just cant see it as it is behind the black covering.

Again, be careful PB. Unless you installed some capacitors or "bass blockers" on your highs you have not removed any bass from them. Installing a sub with an LOC does not mean you have removed the low frequencies from your highs. Once you add some capacitors you should be ready to go.

I agree, however it is much better than what it was before. You are right, you cant just eliminate bass, however it is much more controlled now. I no longer "feel" the air going against my legs from the 6x9's. I have done similar installs like this, and the stocks tend to last a lot longer.

The best part is that it sounds like crap from outside? That may just eliminate 99% of the people from wanting to perform the same upgrade. But if it sounds good inside that is what should really matter.... :teethmast

You are correct. I hate the fact that people can here "boom" or whatever else from the outside of a vehicle.
1. Increases theft possibilities
2. Doesnt annoy anyone

It sounds outstanding on the inside. I had to turn the gain down a little bit today as it was too boomy.

 

looks awesome, i bet it sounds great. infinitys are real good speakers imo. i have 2 12's in my work car that will rattle your brain, but if you turn the amp down they provide real good sound quality also. here is the link to my infinty system. system

 

Pardon my ignorance, but can anyone please tell me what's an LOC and where can I get it?

 

Never mind! I did my own 30-min research and this is what I found.
LOC = Line Out Converter

The function is to convert a high level audio signal (speaker level) to a low signal (pre-amp, RCA or Din level).

Most LOCs are limited to a maximum input wattage which ranges from 0 to a 30 watts max input. I would also like to point out that I couldn't find any mono LOCs. All of them are either dual or quad channels.

I want connect the amp to the cable going to the sub under the drivers seat using a LOC. (I'm assuming it's only one channel). I don't want to remove the stereo or cut any of the OEM cables. I want to keep the electrical system as OEM as possible (I don't want to have my electrical system warranty voided due to alteration to the original electrical wiring)

Now here comes one question which I couldn't find on my research.

Does anyone know what's the RMS coming out of the amp from the RF sound system going to the sub?

 

Never mind! I did my own 30-min research and this is what I found.
LOC = Line Out Converter

The function is to convert a high level audio signal (speaker level) to a low signal (pre-amp, RCA or Din level).

Most LOCs are limited to a maximum input wattage which ranges from 0 to a 30 watts max input. I would also like to point out that I couldn't find any mono LOCs. All of them are either dual or quad channels.

I want connect the amp to the cable going to the sub under the drivers seat using a LOC. (I'm assuming it's only one channel). I don't want to remove the stereo or cut any of the OEM cables. I want to keep the electrical system as OEM as possible (I don't want to have my electrical system warranty voided due to alteration to the original electrical wiring)

Now here comes one question which I couldn't find on my research.

Does anyone know what's the RMS coming out of the amp from the RF sound system going to the sub?

First: YOU DO NOT WANT TO DO THIS.

Now here's why: The Nissan amp is wwwaaay under powered. Connecting another amp (through LOCs) to the output of this amp is asking for poor sound. Any distortion generated in the Nissan amp will be amplified by your new amp - the resulting sound you would probably not like.

As to your question: Nissan claims 35 watts per speaker (the basis for this claim I do not know). Based solely on how the system sounds, if any one speaker is receiving more that 6 watts RMS, I would be greatly surprised.

If you insist on doing what you described, you will need a dual LOC since both the right and left channel is applied to the subwoofer.

A better way to accomplish your mission is to tap into the rear channels at the output of the HU, before going through the RF amp, using LOCs. This way none of the possible problems in the Nissan amp are sent to the new amp and subwoofer. There are connector kits available which would allow you to do this on a plug-in basis without having to cut or splice into existing wiring. To return to a 'stock' condition just disconnect your added connectors and plug the original connectors back to their original positions.

 

I think sammysandbag already tried tapping at the amp output and it didn't sound good. If you don't want to cut any cables, it is reported that the 1995 & up Nissan car stereo adapters will plug into the factory head unit and the factory harness. The connector to plug into the head unit is Scosche NN03RB. The connector that plugs into the factory harness connector has a different number (maybe it is NN03 ?), but I think they sell it as Nissan 1995 & up. They each consist of a plug and a short wire harness. I am thinking maybe you can use those to splice in your LOC right after the HU, without cutting factory wiring. You would probably want to have somebody that knows what they are doing (e.g. eakes, sammysandbag, smoketitan, peanutbutter) confirm this before going that route. You would have to take out the stock headunit to do this, but that is not particularly difficult.

 

Hey Peanutbutter,

Check your ground cables! I once had the same issue with my stereo not coming on until I plugged in the antenna. Turns out my ground wasn't connected properly and the deck ended up grounding using the antenna. Not good...

 

adjmcloon, havent really got around to it lately. I will be running a new ground to chassis but everything has been fine so far. I will more than likely get a new HU, (Kenwood 7015), new speakers (Infinity Kappas), and a 4-channel amp to run everything, so I will gut everything. As far as factory cables, I spliced into them. I dont see the big deal because they will more than likely never look back there. I butted, taped, and then used the factory tape to cover everything. Most will never know.

 

Thanks guys for the hint!

I will definitely connect it directly to the HU.

As far as the connector kit this is what I found.

SCOSCHE NN03B Wiring Harness for 1995 & up Nissan
http://www.sjgreatdeals.com/sisnn03b.html

SCOSCHE NN03RB Reverse Wiring Harness for 1995 & Up Nissan
http://www.sjgreatdeals.com/sisnn03rb.html

LOC
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-dLZpIZ...dLZpIZ9fJ2G/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?a=0&s=0&cc=01&g=721&id=essential_info&i=101PL2

Thanks guys again for you help!

 

dont make the mistake and get a cheap LOC --if you are going to spend all that money please buy a high end david navone LOC--they out out a clean 9.5V and they do make a 4 channel verison fro 4 channel amps for around $35 doallrs--and yes it does make a difference in noise and sound output this and the rca cabels are the last place you want to skimp on a few dollars ---believe me--and tap the loc at the head unit!!!!

 

I have a Question about were you ran your rcas from i got the fosgate system and i wanna take the sub out and replace it. I have two infinity kappa perfects and i wanna put one under each seat but im not sure were your installing your rcas for your amps.