Front wheel hub bearing replacement procedure - Nissan Titan Forum
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#1 (permalink) Old 01-15-2012, 08:02 PM
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Front wheel hub bearing replacement procedure

I just replaced both of the front wheel bearings on my 04 4WD with 95K miles. For the record, this can be done without removing the front axles, and without a press. Here are the tools you should definitely have on hand: breaker bar, needle nose pliers, large pry bar, BFH, assortment of metric sockets (deep well and standard, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, 21mm, 22mm and that might not be all of them), ĹĒ torque wrench, penetrating oil, large pittman arm puller or ďpickle forkĒ (either works but I recommend the puller), assorted metric wrenches, 32mm axle nut socket, and assorted wood blocks. In addition, I highly recommend a strong impact wrench and a propane or MAPP torch. Front wheel hub bearing replacement procedure-bolt-removal-tools.jpgI didnít see a how-to here on the forum so here goes:
1. Jack up frame and support with jack stand, remove front wheel, brake caliper, torque plate, sway bar link, and separate upper control arm from spindle. There are plenty of existing how-to articles for these steps.
2. Remove tie rod end from spindle: remove cotter pin, loosen the nut until it sits just beneath the top threads of the bolt, and give it a sharp rap with your BFH. It should un-seat pretty easily. If youíve got a small pittman arm puller you could use that too.Front wheel hub bearing replacement procedure-010.jpg
3. Disconnect wheel speed sensor wiring harness. Believe it or not, this was probably the most frustrating part of the job for me. My theory is that microscopic grit accumulates in all the tiny cavities in and around the harness interface, which after 95K miles makes it incredibly difficult to pull apart. That or I just really suck at separating wiring harnesses. Once you get it, unclip the wire from all the securing points and let it hang out of the way.
4. Remove the bolt that goes through the bottom of the spindle (it secures the ball joint to the spindle). Itís in there pretty snug so youíll probably have to pop it out with a hammer and a punch after you remove the nut.
5. Remove axle cotter pin and axle nut. Like you did with the tie rod end, give the axle a sharp BFH rap when the nut is almost off of the shaft. This should separate the axle from the hub.
6. Since you already separated the upper control arm, you should now be able to grab the top of the spindle and move it all around pretty freely. Itís still seated on the ball joint shaft and the axle is still going through it so itís not going anywhere yet. Your goal is to move the top of the spindle as far away from the wheel well as possible. As youíre doing that, pull (by hand) the axle out of the hub. Youíve got to pull it pretty hard and the spindle has to be swung outward to the correct angle at the same time. This is not really that hard to do, just hard to explain.
7. At this point you need to temporarily secure the top of the spindle somehow (temporarily re-connect it to the UCA or have an assistant hold on to it, because youíre about to un-seat the ball joint and the spindle will drop to the ground if unsupported). Un-seat the spindle from the ball joint. You can either do this with a pickle fork separator or a pittman arm puller. I used both methods (one on each side of the truck), and I prefer the puller since itís a little easier to control and it wonít trash your ball joint boot. Note to reader Ė if youíre considering changing out your ball joints, nowís a great time for it.Front wheel hub bearing replacement procedure-axle-out.jpg
8. The whole spindle should now be ready to come off the truck. Set it on the floor with the lugnuts facing down and spray the backside of the spindle liberally with penetrating oil. You should soak the three bolts that secure the hub to the spindle, and also soak the circumference of the hub where it joins the spindle.
9. The three hub nuts are torqued tight from the factory (155 ft-lbs, I believe) and they also have high strength thread lock applied. Combine those two factors with 95K miles and youíve got a job ahead of you. My impact wrench is a BEAST and it didnít have enough *** to remove them by itself. I had to heat the bolts up with a propane torch, one at a time, and simultaneously hit them with the impact. This is actually the most satisfying part of the job IMO.
10. With those three bolts removed, you now need to un-seat the hub from the spindle. I did this by building a cradle out of two stacks of wooden blocks and then setting the spindle lugnuts-down on the blocks (see pic). Pay attention to how the brake dust shield is aligned because youíll want to reinstall it the same way later. Once youíve got the spindle securely supported, hit the **** out of the bearing with your BFH. On the first wheel I was being kind of a **** about it so it took quite a few whacks to get it out. On the second wheel my confidence was up so two solid hits and it was out. Donít worry about damaging the bearing since youíre tossing it anyway.Front wheel hub bearing replacement procedure-bearing-removal-tools.jpg
11. Toss out your old bearing and inspect the mating surface inside the spindle. If thereís any irregularity, sand it a little until itís smooth. Then oil or grease it a little all the way around.
12. Set the new axle hub lugnuts-down on a sheet of plywood (to protect the threads) and gently lower the spindle down on to it. Take your time and make sure the three bolt holes line up just right. You should be able to seat it just a little bit by hand, without any tools.
13. Now insert the three hub bolts and tighten them by hand until they begin to snug. If youíre re-using your old bolts, apply some high strength thread lock to the threads beforehand. If you bought new OEM ones like me, they already have thread lock on them. With your socket, tighten each one a little at a time. Just keep going around in a circle, giving each bolt a couple of turns at a time. You want to keep the spindle fairly parallel to the hub so it doesnít bind up or distort. This is easy to do if you resist the urge to tighten each bolt a whole bunch at a time. Once the hub is fully seated into the spindle, torque each one to 155 ft-lbs (bracing the spindle while you torque them might give you a workout if you donít have a large prybar and an assistant).
14. The spindle is now ready for re-installation. Re-seat the spindle on the ball joint stud. I did this by supporting the spindle with a floor jack and wiggling it a little on the ball joint as I slowly raised the jack. Donít over-seat it or the through-bolt wonít be able to get through the spindle. Just look through the hole in the spindle while you raise it with the jack and youíll see what I mean.
15. If you got this far, then the rest of the re-installation is a breeze, just follow the reverse order of the above steps.
I got my bearing/hub assemblies from Rock Auto. I got the Timkens which is the same brand Nissan used for OEM. Front wheel hub bearing replacement procedure-new-timken.jpgThey come with new Bosch wheel speed sensors pre-installed. I also bought new OEM hub-to-spindle bolts, but after removing the originals I realized they still looked decent and might have been suitable for re-use. Re-use at your own risk; I was little skeptical of doing so after putting them through the torch/impact wrench cycle. You might also need some new cotter pins for your axle nut and tie rod end. If youíre a non-mechanic like me then I would budget a whole day for both wheels. If youíre super handy and it all goes well, then maybe just a few hours. Good luck.
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#2 (permalink) Old 01-16-2012, 06:00 AM
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Re: Front wheel hub bearing replacement procedure

thanks for the write up very detail and informative... Im ready to tackle mined if I need too...

what was your T doing that you had to replaced the bearing ?


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#3 (permalink) Old 01-16-2012, 02:31 PM
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Re: Front wheel hub bearing replacement procedure

Was getting a pretty consistent humming from the front end that developed over the last 5K miles or so, so I figured I'd change them out before they became an issue. The noise has improved greatly but I still hear it a little, so I'm thinking maybe the rears in the spring when it warms up a little.
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#4 (permalink) Old 06-06-2012, 06:10 PM
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Re: Front wheel hub bearing replacement procedure

I just got done this job, and it was a mild pain, but I figured I would add my $0.02. I have previous experience with this from changing my lower ball joints, and I learned from my mistakes and refined my method this time around. I personally found it MUCH easier just to unbolt the front cv axle from the dif to gain clearance to access the 3 bolts to mount the hub to the spindle rather than removing the spindle to get the hub off. You don't even have to remove the axle from inside the LCA/dif area (you can't get it out anyway without loosening the balljoints), but if you just unbolt it, you can get that extra inch of clearance you need to get onto the hub mounting bolts. This way you don't have to unbolt any ball joints or tie rods if you do it this way, just immobilize the hub and remove the axle nut, and the six bolts from the axle/dif flange, then tap your axle in about an inch in order to gain enough clearance to get your breaker bar onto those 3 hub mounting bolts. After the bolts were removed, I just wailed on the hub with a bfh and chiseled the other side by the dust shield to get the hub off the spindle, while the spindle was still attached. It is much easier to unbolt the front cv axle IMO because then you don't have to deal with potentially damaging your ball joints, or your c-clip in the dif by pulling the axle out of the dif while removing the spindle (learned that one last time).


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#5 (permalink) Old 06-13-2013, 12:05 PM
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Re: Front wheel hub bearing replacement procedure

Replaced mine last night. Didn't have to disconnect the spindle or the axle shaft. Used a long extension with a shallow socket to fit by the outer shaft. Stuck a pipe between the hub and the frame and used the power steering to crack the hub loose, hammered it out from there.

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#6 (permalink) Old 06-14-2013, 05:11 PM
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Re: Front wheel hub bearing replacement procedure

Do you know if the bearing/hub would be covered under the 5 yr powertrain warranty?

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#7 (permalink) Old 08-08-2013, 08:28 AM
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Re: Front wheel hub bearing replacement procedure

I just finished doing both front hubs/bearings on my 2006 Titan 4x4. A quality double hammer impact wrench makes this job much easier, even though I was fighting corrosion from 7 Pittsburgh Winters. I spent $60 on a 750 ft/lb, double hammer, China made wrench on eBay. If I did this work every day, I would buy a Mac/SnapOn model, but I don't, so I didn't. The POS impact wrench that comes with most compressors will have no effect on these bolts.

Before doing anything, I soaked all of the bolts with PB Blaster. This is the best penetrating oil I have used and I will not do a job without it. After pulling the wheel, caliper, and torque plate, I did the following.


1) Remove cotter pin and axle nut (32MM socket). Impact wrench makes this easy.

2) Remove cotter pin and tie rod end nut (22MM socket). Again, an impact wrench makes this easy. Reinstall nut to protect the threads and smack with a hammer to unseat the tie rod end.

3) Remove lower shock bolt (19MM socket and wrench). Remove three strut nuts on top of UCA (14MM socket). Remove entire strut assembly and set to the side.

4) Since the TRE has been removed, the spindle will move easily. By positioning the spindle at 90 degrees left and then 90 degrees right, and pushing in on the axle about an inch, clearance is gained to get the 21MM socket on the three bolts that hold in the bearing/hub assembly. Again, a good impact wrench makes the removal of these bolts easy.

5) Knock out two studs, on opposite sides of the wheel hub. Insert 1/2" bolt (3"long) into the hole and slide a washer and nut on the back side of the hub. Tighten the nuts against the back of the hub a couple of turns each. As the bolt makes contact with the spindle (and heat shield on the other side) they will push the bearing out a little at a time. Continue to tighten the nut on the back of the hub until the hub assembly falls out. Easy!

6) Install new bearing and reverse disassembly instructions 1-4.

Last edited by BearTitan; 08-08-2013 at 08:31 AM.
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#8 (permalink) Old 08-08-2013, 09:49 AM
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Re: Front wheel hub bearing replacement procedure

My 2WD hubs were replaced a few months ago, and I watched the mechanic. All he used was a BFH and rotated the hub as he whacked at it. It took about 15 whacks for each hub.

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#9 (permalink) Old 08-09-2013, 11:40 AM
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Re: Front wheel hub bearing replacement procedure

I've worked on a lot of stuff over the years, but have never heard of a "Torque Plate" WTF is that???

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#10 (permalink) Old 10-12-2013, 05:51 PM
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Re: Front wheel hub bearing replacement procedure

Hi everyone, this is my first post here. I picked up a high miles 2009 a month ago for a good price and am going through a list of repairs, both front hubs are part of that list. Just thought I'd add a few notes on my install - did the right side yesterday, was going to do the left side today but found a leaking CV boot so I'm going to wait and do it all at the same time when the boots arrive.

I used a combo of the instructions BNissan and BearTitan posted. Thanks so much to both of you for posting these notes, they were very helpful. These notes are the few things I had trouble with and/or learned along the way.

- I did not need an impact wrench, but do have an extra big breaker bar which came to good use.

- I was able to remove the 3 hub bolts without removing the spindle, but in the end the spindle had to come out because the hub was simply not coming out of the bore. I tried BearTitan's method but it wouldn't budge. Like BNissan, BFH was the ticket there! Also I installed the new hub after reinstalling the spindle - that way I could get good torque on the 3 bolts.

- I had trouble getting the upper ball joint reconnected as the UCA wouldn't come down far enough, so I disconnected the strut at the bottom. Big mistake as then I couldn't get the strut bolt through upon reinstallation (it was extending too far and the lower arm wouldn't drop. Now I'm guessing that was because I didn't disconnect the sway bar link?

- After disconnecting the tie rod end with the nut/tap method, I couldn't spin the nut the rest of the way off due to tightness from the rust (or back tight for that matter). The ball just spun. I fixed this by placing the jack under the arm, pushing the ball back to the spindle (not too much pressure though). This stopped the ball spinning, allowing the nut to be loosened. Used the same method when reinstalling.

- I loosened and tightened the hub nut with the wheel on and on the ground - the socket fit through the wheel's center bore with the center cap removed. This made removing and tightening the nut very easy.

- The sensor socket was a total write off for me...there was simply no separating the connector without destroying it. Ended up cutting and soldering the wires with dual wall sealing heat shrink. If you do this be sure to leave the "knob" on the wire on the hub side - this leaves less than 1/2" of wire to connect to. Also the wire colours reverse - black on the harness goes to white on the hub, black on the hub goes to orange on the harness.

Last edited by canuckmark; 10-12-2013 at 05:53 PM.
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#11 (permalink) Old 11-18-2013, 05:27 AM
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Re: Front wheel hub bearing replacement procedure

I did the other side this weekend. I got to all the nuts and got the bearing out without taking anything else apart. Took pics this time.










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#12 (permalink) Old 03-01-2014, 10:49 AM
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Re: Front wheel hub bearing replacement procedure

Currently doing drivers side wheel bearing on my fathers 08 cc se 4x4 and of course its snowing and cold out but its Saturday gotta gitrdone.. lol. Just in warming up the fingers by the fire and I gotta say.. dam them bolts were tight lol. Big bar is your best friend on this job. Maybe a little anger and some frozen fingers helps too

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#13 (permalink) Old 03-01-2014, 04:03 PM
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Re: Front wheel hub bearing replacement procedure

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#14 (permalink) Old 05-09-2014, 11:54 PM
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Re: Front wheel hub bearing replacement procedure

Not sure if anyone else has done this. But I've done this to my truck 3 times now, 2 driver side, 1 passenger.

As for disassembly save yourself a lot of time and only remove the main nut, and brakes and 3 bolts. Nothing weeks major needs to be removed.

You can get to the top and right side bolt of the hub assy by turning the wheel right as possible and pushing the axle in a little by hand if needed. Same for the bolt on the left but steering wheel goes left.

Removal of the assy required a hammer.

Smack the top til it seperates a little then smack right side, left side, top, repeat.

I did it yesterday and took 1 hr 10 minutes from Park to drive away. Hand tools only.

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#15 (permalink) Old 05-31-2014, 11:02 AM
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Re: Front wheel hub bearing replacement procedure

So I just finished this job, not to bad. Just hand tools, no puller, 1 1/4 socket for axle nut. Didn't take anything off except brake calipers and rotors. Just turned the wheels to get to the 3 bolts. Had to jack up all the suspension, on the side i was working on, from under the lower control arm to get the socket on the top bolt, that's all.

Last edited by KWAZ!; 05-31-2014 at 07:24 PM.
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