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Workin'Titan

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
The first question is this:
Do you recommend the synthic oils over standard oil and why?
I have heard synthetics can actually be bad for an engine. True or false?


The second question is this:
I have seen a magnet that is attached around the oil filter to stop small pieces of metal from traveling inside the engine.

Is this for real? If so, how effective is this?
 
The second question is this:
I have seen a magnet that is attached around the oil filter to stop small pieces of metal from traveling inside the engine.

Is this for real? If so, how effective is this?
I read about that also and bought and use one. Although curious, I have never been sufficiently curious to deal with the mess of cutting a used oil filter up to inspect.
 
As long as the engine has had time to seat the rings, break in the cam, ect,,,synthetic oil has great friction fighting formulas, but modern dino oil, with all it's detergents and additives is an excellent choice also. It just comes down to preference really. Modern oil filter media is great, and I just don't see the need for a magnet. The oil coming out of the filter has already been filtered before it goes in the engine...
 
The first question is this:
Do you recommend the synthic oils over standard oil and why?
I have heard synthetics can actually be bad for an engine. True or false?
False. There are a couple of origins of this old-wives tale.

1) Back in the early days of synthetic there were some issues with it causing seals to shrink, but with advancements in synthetic oils as well as advancements in seal material (Synthetic rubbers) this hasn't been an issue for decades.

2) Synthetic oil has great cleaning properties, conventional oils are now catching up, so people would blame new leaks on synthetic oil as being the cause. The reality is that between synthetic's ability to clean crap out of the engine and its shorter carbon chain would expose pre-existing leaks that had been plugged up by conventional oil sludge and crust. The shorter carbon chain means it can "leak" out of smaller holes than conventional, so while it didn't CAUSE any leaks it does expose one you already have and didn't know about.

The second question is this:
I have seen a magnet that is attached around the oil filter to stop small pieces of metal from traveling inside the engine.

Is this for real? If so, how effective is this?
It doesn't hurt, but how much does it help? If you have enough metal running through your system that it's going to collect in a filter between changes then I think you've got bigger issues. :D

:cheers:
 
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I have owned two trucks with magnetic oil drain plugs. I make the
first oil change at about 1000 miles. There is a good sized "pile" of
metal particles on the magnet at that low mileage.
At 5000 miles there was much less........after that, none noticeable.
 
I've used synthetic oil on my 08 for nearly 30k miles with no issues.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Thanks to all of you. So the final decision is a yes to the synthetics and a no to the magnet.

BTW daptech, I was down in Biloxi, Mississippi helping people rebuild after Katrina. We spent weeks working with people who got screwed by their insurance companies and helped them rebuild at no or little cost--God is good and provided the necessary funds to help--America Rocks! I grew up in Houston, and I have never seen anything as big as that storm! Not even close. I drove HWY 90 from Biloxi to Louisiana about 2 months after and everything for 2 to 4 blocks was leveled. WOW! Stay safe.
 
Some excellent posts in this thread that I totally agree with. I just wanted to add that not all oil filters are made the same. Do a little googling and you'll discover some have worst reputations than others. (FRAM vs Motorcraft for example)
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
Some excellent posts in this thread that I totally agree with. I just wanted to add that not all oil filters are made the same. Do a little googling and you'll discover some have worst reputations than others. (FRAM vs Motorcraft for example)
Funny. I never even thought of looking at different filters. I grew up using Fram-- and now? Look at this comparison on line.

Opinions and Recommendations - Oil Filters Revealed - MiniMopar Resources

Good info!

Have a great day everyone. :)
 
Howdy. I'm new here and found this discussion interesting - it popped up in a google alert this morning for me. :lol:

Without saying who I work for, I sell used engines, and I always recommend fully synthetic oil - not a synthetic blend. I don't care what brand folks use, though I personally use Amsoil both in my A4, which has a Turbo and in my CR-V.

Now, here's the thing. The VK56DE engine, both the VIN A and VIN B variants seem to always have a lot of sludge in the failed engines. These engines are great, but we sell a lot nationally so we see a lot of extreme cases on cores. I've seen these things where it looks like clay in the oil pan, maybe an inch thick. Without exception, this is from drivers who do not use synthetic oil. In fact, overall, at least three quarters of these engines that fail that I've dealt with have had owners not using synthetic oil.

I can't think of an engine in the last ten years that hasn't been designed specifically for synthetic oil. That's just the way the cookie crumbles. Use it - you won't regret it.

BTW, imho the magnetic plug thing won't hurt... but it won't help.
 
Funny. I never even thought of looking at different filters. I grew up using Fram-- and now? Look at this comparison on line.

Opinions and Recommendations - Oil Filters Revealed - MiniMopar Resources

Good info!

Have a great day everyone. :)
I did not know either until I got into a more performance oriented car and become concerned with it. Heck, I won't lie I'll still use a Fram in my SUV if there is a special on them or something. However, I refuse to allow them to go the least bit over 3K. My other dailies might slip to 3500 or something. I've seen a lot of articles like the one you linked, but I like that one cause it straight up seperates them.
 
Corvettes, Porsches and Cadillacs initial oil fill at the factory is synthetic. I changed my new 05 Mustang to synthetic at 500 miles and my 2009 Harley-Road King at 300 miles. My 2001 Harley got synthetic at 500 miles and had 69K miles on it when i traded for my 09. I made a cam change at 55K and the internals looked like new.
 
About 80% of the oil performance and cleaning properties are based on the additive package, not the base oil stock…Every manufacture has their own blend of additives that get added to the base oil…So synthetic oils still have additive packages which dictate how they will do most of their job…

EXCEPT….when what you need is based on that oil stock such as cold starting, synthetics flow better at low temps which means all things equal they will do a better job in extreme cold…likewise synthetics hold up MUCH better to heat, and they also hold up better to shearing forces when they get thinned out and today’s oils as you know are 5-30 and sometimes down to 0-20…

I believe today’s engines running much thinner oils, and higher revs need a synthetic base more than ever….

Magnets?....sure can’t hurt….
 
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