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all multigrade oils have a certain amount of man made stuff. these engines are so well designed and clean running, that any SAE oil will run fine in them. i see more engines with over 100k miles using regular oil, than those using synthetic. just my HMO'
 
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I feel the same way, the engines will last just as long using Chevron oil as they will if your using Mobil 1. There have been plenty of oil test samples done on Chevron in our engines and these Titans just runs great on it.

Here's just one thread where fellow member (got titan) posted his Chevron oil test sample for everyone.

The thread is called (4500 miles on Chveron Supreme 10W-30 wow!)

The oil test results from (Got Titans) Chevron at 4500 miles is very very close to the test sample (Jet Tech) did on his truck with Mobil 1 0W- 40. at alittle over 5k miles on it.

So there is no proof that the engines will last any longer using Mobil 1 then using Chevron.

Just my views on this.

Deep.
 
MOBIL 1 10-30 Sythetic Lasted 6K

Hey guys just wanted to let you know. I finally did an oil sample mostly to see if the antifreeze I smell is in the oil. Well this report shows great news.
 

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Changed my oil for the first time today, 2500 miles. I believe the factory put lock-tight on the filter. I have never seen a filter on that tight. No kidding.

Oil looked in pretty good shape but just could not wait any longer. The German castrol 0w-30 was sreaming at me to put it in.

Went with a Wix filter, and glad I did. I cut open the OEM Nissan filter and to my surprise, Fram-like paper end caps. Cheesy, Cheesy. You would think that Nissan would not cheap out with such a filter on such a great engine. Shame on them.

Another note. It took seven quarts of "the green elixer" to fill the crankcase. The manual said 6.5.
 
RB that looks good man, is that a 7 quart or 6.5 quart fill?

It looks similar to my analysis, only I had a lead streak in mine (they said probably a bearing wearing in) they wanted me to send another sample at 5,000 but Im going 7k again...

I had a little less addative left with my cheaper amsoil 5-30, but I had a bit more miles and it was a 6.5 quart fill on a fairly new motor...

What oil filter were you using?

Thanks,

as far as 6.5 vs 7, 6.5 will put you between empty and full (this is fine), you typicaly don't want to be at max (check the stick again), however ill probably put 7 in since no one seems to be having issues with the little bit of extra oil, and because Im using the longer drain interval.


Truck41, please educate me what makes them so clean vs other motors that dyno will not mess up seals and cause more wear than synthetics? Are you saying Nissan uses some special seals to prevent wear?
 
Justintoxicated said:
RB that looks good man, is that a 7 quart or 6.5 quart fill?

What oil filter were you using?
Just checked 6.5 fill according to your dipstick measure.

They used the Mobil 1 brand filter.
 
Switch to mobil 1

I switched my titan '06 LE to Mobil 1 at 18000kms, I was dissappointed to see a reduction in my mpg since then. I never really correlated it with the oil change as i was running mineral oils prior to that.

I avg 15 mpg with the mineral oils pre 18000kms

now

I avg 12-12.5 with the mobil 1.

I read thru all 9 pages of this tread and no one has really come out an declared a "best oil / filter combo" for our titans.

Can anyone point one out, i am due for a change shortly and want to switch things up 12 mpg is ridiculous.

Thanks in advance.
 
JetTech said:
Just so you know, Valvoline doesn't typically do to well in oil samples. Some of the best dino results are from Chevron Supreme, Texaco/Havoline, and Pennzoil (believe it or not). Concerning synthetics Amsoil, Mobil 1, and Redline usually report back very good results. When it comes to semi-synthetics there are superb oil samples coming in from the Motorcraft 5W-20 and Pennzoil 5W-20. All 5W-20's are semi-synthetic anyway and hold their viscosity very well, usually better than the 5W-30's. I'll look at some more oil samples concerning the Chevron Supreme and report back which grade is doing better i.e. 5W-30 or 10W-30.
Motorcraft is not a TRUE semi synthetic product. Their semi product tests identical to conventional/mineral based products. We use 100% group II+ base oils. Comp. blenders use group I,II,III base oils so they consider it a "semi". They use this term loosely. Its like Castrol and their fully synthetic product which isnt man made but uses a hrdrocracked carbon method for obtaining its product. We deliver the Brookpark Ford engine plant rail cars and its a conventional product. The density,flash point,pour point,viscosity index, high temp shear visc., sulfated ash wt %,TBN and phosporus wt% of their "semi" to our and many other conventional products are the same.
 
"misslelau I just changed my oil, 2000 miles, Mobil 1 5w30 Suv/Truck. Used a Mobil 1 filter. No drive train noises. Also just filled up with 87 octane for 16.1 mpg. I have been averaging 15 mpg. I drive 60-65mph. I've Found my combo. I also have an oil filter magnet on the filter for added piece of mind.:upsidedow

Next oil change is around 5000 miles, then I'll do every 5000 there after.
 
JetTech said:
I will say this though, after listening to Trappers take on the way dino oils stay on the cam chains after shutdown better than synthetics I may just have to change my mind on the whole synthetic oil use. I still may try the Delvac 1 5W-40 BUT will do oil samples along the way to make sure I'm not wearing out my cam bearings or doing any harm by using it. My main concern with dino oils is shearing, something that most synthetics don't do over time. Especially Mobil's Delvac.
This may be a good arguement for a synthetic blend to get the best of both worlds. I also would like to know if any body has used Walmart supertech fully synthetic,:computern or who makes it.
 
Jettech, you a aircraft mech? the only oil samples that i do are from helicopters that i work on, which synthetic is the only lube that is used
 
I run valv synthetic 5w30 it seems to be more expensive but good....I was wanting to know if it would be safe to go from synthetic back to regular non synthetic...please PM me and let me know.

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Black 2004 CC, 20" (mock Harley wheels) TruFlo air filter, 12L7 sub with SUPER BASS probox, interior harley orange accents, full face billet on grill, 4300k headlights, paint matched back bumper, and a led-foot :-D
 
Harley Edition Titan said:
I run valv synthetic 5w30 it seems to be more expensive but good....I was wanting to know if it would be safe to go from synthetic back to regular non synthetic...please PM me and let me know.
wazzup Harley.

Yeah it's safe.
 
JetTech said:
Just in case anyone here is a synthetic nut like myself I don't think I would recommend trying it out in your new Titan. At 1000 miles I drained the factory fill oil and put Mobil 1 10W-30 in it. Yesterday at 2000 miles I dumped it out and put Havoline 5W-30 in it. Why would I waste expensive Mobil 1???? Glad you asked........ever since I put it in the engine it sounded louder at idle, more valve train noise than what it did with the factory fill oil. No noticeable gas mileage drop or other noises during acceleration or cruise, just a whole lot of valve train noise at idle. Now that I put good old dino juice back in it all is quiet at idle now. I guess I may have to change my views concerning synthetics with what I know now concerning the Titan. I'll be picking up a couple of cases of Chevron Supreme, which by the way does awesome in oil sample tests.
why didn't you use 5w30 mobil 1?
 
I'll be doing my first LOF in a couple weeks. I haven't read whole thread, but my reason to use Mobil 1 is added heatprotection in case the coolant system ever fails, no cooked bearing. Over a 100,000 miles, cost diff for using synthetic vs. others is $400 roughly (doing it yourself). Very small price to ensure a major purchase just in case. Ill be going with the Mobil 1 and WIX Filter combo based on what i've learned here at TT.
 
just did an oil change using 5w30 Mobile 1....the engine does seem alittle quiter
 
someone said this on page 7, but it is worth mentioning again.

You never want to use a synthetic oil right away in an engine, especially something high quality like Amsoil and (I guess) mobile 1 syth, the engine needs to be broken in first, using a synthetic that early actually retards the break in process.

Usually I wait until at least 30k miles before using Amsoil in my vehicles, and generally use Chevron Supreem until that point. It is a good idea to change your oil around 1k miles, just not with Synthetic.

FYI: This information was passed down to me from my father, who while taxing on my patience, is a Aircraft engine mechanic, jets and turboprops as well as his own Cessna. The man knows engines.
 
SpiritOne said:
someone said this on page 7, but it is worth mentioning again.

You never want to use a synthetic oil right away in an engine, especially something high quality like Amsoil and (I guess) mobile 1 syth, the engine needs to be broken in first, using a synthetic that early actually retards the break in process.

Mobil 1 claims that this is a myth.

http://www.mobil1.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Synthetics/Myths.aspx

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The dealerships say to wait. Even on motorcycles. I think the higher the compression of motor it is you should be more cautious during a break in period. I waited till after a few 3000 mile changes in my Titan, but merely because of price of synthetics. Now I wouldnt put anything else into it. I don't see why it would hurt anything from an oil standpoint especially if you are upgrading.
 
At the first oil change 3K the dealer talked me into the castrol syntec I did that twice before educating myself on oils so at 9K I switched directly to Mobil 1 full synthetic 10-30 and have never changed. I have 45K now and runs better now than the day I bought her.

Here's my last oil report and this is after Southern Summer heat and a bottle of N20.
 

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