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Sounded to me like the fuel pump from the beginning the way it was acting. Run for a while then stop... Like the IPDM used to do, as well. ;)
 
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Thank you very much for the information Robkar!

It very well may be the fuel pump?

Definitely worth checking. It's not throwing any codes on the dash.

If it is the fuel pump I don't see how I was able to get the truck to run and drive perfectly for 10mins after I installed the new IPDM.

I believe something, possiblity electrical, is causing the IPDM relay to go out. I just don't know what would cause that?

I'm going to go pick up a few more IPDM relays and try installing a new one into the new IPDM and see if it starts up and runs again.

At least it will start up and run for a few mins when I have it towed to the dealership. That way i can repeat exactly what is happening when it shuts off on me.

Does that make sense?
 
One symptom of a fuel pump problem, is that once it warms up it stops or slows down.

There also could be something in the tank where the debris block the intake to the pump and once you stop they float away, but then in a few minutes are back to blocking the intake.

So the time it is taking you to replace the relay gives the debris enough time to drop away or the pump to cool down.
 
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Thanks again for the info Robkar. 👍

I've got 3/4 of a tank of gas in the truck at the moment. Anything is possible though.

I'm going to try running Up/Rev Cipher this evening to see if there's any codes stored in the ECU?

(It's not throwing any hard codes on the dash)

Maybe that will give me some insight as to what is going on?

If don't find anything I guess I'll have it towed to the dealership for diag.

-GW77
 
(Another Update)

So after reading a article that my stepdad sent me about the factory anti-theift system issue the other day it gave me an idea.

So today I went out to my T, put the key in the ignition and turned in to ACC, then hit the unlock button on the key fob, then turned ignition to On and the truck started right up!

Weird stuff I know.

It's throwing the "check engine light" now. So this evening I'm going to check the code with Up/Rev Cipher to see what is says?

I'm just happy it started! Hopefully when I read the code(s) tonight I'll get my insight?

Wish me luck y'all 😎👍
 
(Update 2 for the day)

More Insight! 💡

Since my truck is starting up now and the "check engine light" came back on for the first time since my truck originally shut off on me. I got out my old laptop and ran my Up/Rev Cipher to read what codes were stored in the ECU?

I got (2) codes, both are the same.

P0335,CKP (crankshaft position) sensor

I'm going to go ahead and order a new crank position sensor and while I'm at it I'm think I'll get a new cam position sensor also.

I was excited that I was able to get a new development on my situation today. It's an adventure! haha 😁👍
 
(Update)

Today I installed my new crankshaft position sensor. Located on the bottom of the bell housing of the trans. Super simple only 1 bolt.

Truck is no longer throwing any codes. Started up and let it idle for 10-15 mins. So I went out and put 5 miles on the odometer so far so good!

(ran and drove longer than it did after I replaced the IPDM )

I'll report back when I get some more miles on it.

Fingers crossed! 🤞😊
545198
545199
 
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Hello my Titan Fam!

I just wanted to give y'all an update.

I've put a little over 200 miles on my truck since I replaced the IPDM and crank position sensor.

No issues whatsoever. I'm SO Happy I was able to do it myself and not have to take it in to the dealership!

Big thanks to Robkar and everyone else who helped build this thread! Couldn't have done it without you guys. 💪😎
 
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So I know I'm really late for this party about IPDM's,ECU's etc...I posted about my Bully Dog tuner a few weeks ago thinking that was the culprit. The truck did run better with it disconnected. I doesn't go into limp mode any more but it still falls on its face at full throttle. My IDPM is black in color so from what I've been reading here is that it been upgraded already. I'm like the 3rd owner. I went to the Nissan website and plugged in my VIN and came up with no open recalls on this truck. So after losing my mind reading all of these threads, I choose to go for the ECU relay and if that does't help, the fuel pump.Oh, the fog lights don't work either. Hmmm! The plot thickens.
 
Ok so I went to the Nissan dealer today to pick up the relay and they told me that you can't just buy the relay, you have to buy the whole IPDM for over $600! So I asked for a part number so I can try Auto Zone and they told they don't give out part numbers. WTF! What a scam! I used to be so loyal to Nissan but I'm thinking of getting rid of them all (3) and going Chevy or Ford.
 
Ok so I went to the Nissan dealer today to pick up the relay and they told me that you can't just buy the relay, you have to buy the whole IPDM for over $600! So I asked for a part number so I can try Auto Zone and they told they don't give out part numbers. WTF! What a scam! I used to be so loyal to Nissan but I'm thinking of getting rid of them all (3) and going Chevy or Ford.
I ordered 2 from Courtesy Nissan with no issues, that dealer is lying to you.

 
Ok. Update: I received the ecu relay,swapped it,and reset the ECU. I must say, now she runs like a raped ape! I made sure it was warmed up to full operating temp and ran it through the paces while keeping my head on a swivel for the police. I have a loud cat back installed. Lol! Off the line acceleration was awesome. Good throttle response like it should. The truck has fooled me before thinking I fixed it and then it starts it’s **** again. But this time it didn’t let me down. I’ll keep posting. Like everyone else, I’ve been pulling my hair out trying to figure it out. I’m taking a trip into Connecticut tomorrow to look a bed for the truck at a salvage yard since my rear fenders are rusting out.
 
Does it say Panasonic? If yes then it probably was original.
 
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