I'm no mechanic but the Titan has a timing chain no belt. So no change needed.I am at 90000 and just changed the plugs I am not sure what else needs to be done at 100000 so if anyone has suggestions. I would love to know so I can get after it. Thanks guys

 

I wasn't even sure. Will be glad it is a chain. Had to replace the belt on our accord recently, pricey.

How did your plug change go? I did my own plugs on my 01 expedition and it was a chore. I had someone guiding me or I would have had trouble with the back 2, I didn't have the swivels/sockets to reach them.

 

I'm at 90K as well...been thinking plugs, all the fluids and maybe the serpentine belt. The other issues I've been dealing with is fluid leaks (yoke, trans cooler line, front diff, power steering line, etc) and shocks. Can't think of anything else.

 

I have to be honest i hate to change anything (though I know I need to). the truck is strong and has no leaks, knocks or issues. I've been really pleased with everything except the notorious brakes, but I ordered the Frozen Rotors and Hawk pads Saturday night so I'll put those on hopefully this week.

 

Changing the plugs on the Titan is pretty easy, but you're right about needing the swivels, and couple different lengths of extensions IIRC. I used the OEM NKG platinum plugs that I got from a local Kragen/O'Riely's. They come pre-gapped. Also used a small amount of anti-seize on the threads, and some of the dielectric grease on the tips. Still way cheaper than paying to have it done. There's probably a how-to write-up on here somewhere.

 

Most of the plugs were very easy. The back one on the passenger side you have to change blind but even then its not bad. I also went with the NGK and a little anti sieze on the plugs.

 

Did you guys also go ahead and replace plug wires. What brand did you use? I've not used the dielectric grease before but will read up on it and give it a whirle.

 

The Titan does not have plug wires, it has individual coil packs. You will see that when you pull one out. If you want replace them, it would be very expensive. They are about $125 each and you have 8 of them.

TK

 

thanks Todd, as you can tell I haven't had to do anything to this truck other than change the oil. I won't be changing the coilpacks, my 5.4 expedition had coilpacks too.

I appreciate the info

 

its not a 100,000mile thing but change your cab filter im sure its ditry as hell you can clean it for cheaper or theres alternitives

 

anyone running the ngk iridium plug instead of the platinum? I think AZ had the platinums for 9.99 and the iridiums for 23.99.

I bought a gatorback belt today to put on. Love my new slotted Frozen rotors and Hawk pads I put on last night.

 

I used the Iridium NGK pugs - and have not noticed any difference

 

Oh man, 100k for me was expensive!! I did most of this between 100k-110k YMMV Most I did myself except the headers.

Stuff I would do unless you recently had them done.
- spark plugs NGK PLFR5A-11 $80
- front/rear diff 75w-140 Mobile 1 $100
- Tranny drain and fill Matic-S I did a drain and fill (5-6 qts). $10/qt
- Mobile 1 5w30 and M1-110 filter $60
- Cabin filter FRAM CF10388 $25
- Goodyear 4070975 Serp Belt $35
- Radiator Flush $20

Stuff as a result of cracked/broken/worn parts - inspect yours
- JBA LT Headers $485
- Cajun b-pipes $385
- Bosch 17204 Oxygen Sensor $125
- Stillen Radiator/flush $360
- UpRev $500
- Bilstein 5100 Front Shocks $215
- Brake fluid flush $35
- Front/Rear Pads $70/$140 (rotors weren't replaced)

This is just the truck. My car needed some love as well. 2013 has been an expensive car parts year for me.

 

I know I'm reviving an old thread but is bigjimbo's list basically what needs to be done? I just hit 100k today and haven't taken it into the dealer for service since 55k-ish.

What I've done so far:
Headers/exhaust/uprev
DIY Cabin Filter cleaned when needed
AirAid
Keep oil changed regularly
Rotate tires regularly
1 year old battery
1 year old serpentine belt
1 year old brakes/rotors (cheap though will probably replace in a year or two)
Rear axle vent

What I need to do:
Changing over to full synthetic oil from now on (just got in a position where I can easily change myself)
Spark plugs
Potential O2/AF sensors as I'm throwing a code from my current header install
Brake fluid
Transmission fluid
Diff fluid
Radiator flush
Bilsteins (dragging it out until I lift it most likely)

For the transmission, differential, and radiator are these difficult? Only fluids I've ever changed on a car is the oil. I've also noticed some play in the steering (typical of older vehicles). Is there a way to tighten this up easily? Everything else on the truck is running fine as soon as I get the O2 sensor code fixed.

 

For the transmission, differential, and radiator are these difficult? Only fluids I've ever changed on a car is the oil. I've also noticed some play in the steering (typical of older vehicles). Is there a way to tighten this up easily? Everything else on the truck is running fine as soon as I get the O2 sensor code fixed.

For the transmission, differentials, transfer case, and radiator all have drain and fill plugs, and they are all about as equally tasking as changing your oil...piece of cake! The transmission can be completely drained by disconnecting one of the oil cooler lines. Or, you can do what alot of guys do: a spill and fill. Personally, I just do a spill and fill, which pulls out about 4 quarts at a pop, top it off, drive it for 500 miles and repeat the process for a total of 4x. You can take it to a dealer and they can do a fluid exchange as well

The differentials are as simple as cracking the fill plug (make sure you do this 1st, you don't want to drain your oil only to find out that the fill plug is seized up), then remove the drain plug. Let them drain for an extended period of time to ensure all oil is out. Inspect drain plug for metal shavings; excessive metal shavings could indicate that you may have a problem with gear wear. Lastly, clean and install plug, fill with proper weight oil via the fill plug until oil comes out the fill plug hole, then install the fill plug.

Now, the transfer case is pretty much the same process; however, you will have to buy a cheap hand pump that screws onto the oil containers so that you can pump the oil into the fill hole (just not enough room under there to get a quart container)...if your totally unsure of how this process is done, hit up YouTube for differential and transfers case oil change and see just how easy it is.

Finally, the radiator is, in my opinion, the easiest fluid to change. Wait till the fluid is cool, relieve pressure on the cap, then back off the drain plug (plastic , which is located at the bottom of the radiator.

 

I'm curious as well as I recently rounded 100k.

I did the front hub assemblies as one was confirmed bad by the dealer but I think they were both bad. Amazon had them for about $140 a piece.

I'm curious about the PCV valves - should they be changed as well?




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