As far as I know there is no fix, only replacement.

 

Replacement caliper assemblies aren't stupid expensive. As long as you have it apart, replacing the assembly is the easiest way to go.

If the caliper was overheated then the seals in the cylinder may have been damaged. Replacement is a good idea. If this was regular maintenance at say 150,000 miles with not brake issues I might say replace the seals yourself. But if it's already damaged? Probably not.

Rotor might be cooked too. If so, rotor and pads need to be replaced, which means both sides.

If it's really just a sticky slider then you can disassemble that and grease them up.

 

Of note is that Nissan recommends replacing the caliper slide pins every time you do brake pads. If you're still running the original slider pins, a new set from the parts store is about $6 per side. Also get a tube of high-temp brake grease while you're there, and lube the new pins well. Once you do that, reassemble and see if the problem is gone. If it's not, replace the caliper.

 

Thanks for the quick replies - very helpful. Stupid thing is I was up to the dealer last weekend for the same thing and they checked it out and didn't notice anything out of order (it drove great all the way there and they couldn't replicate it). I drive it for ten miles today, was fine, then after braking a few times, it starts again, with the steering wheel wobble and feel a bit pulsing when braking.

Jacked it up and it spins freely and rotors still look good with plenty of pad - although I'm a weakling and can't get the lug nuts off to take a closer look. Might be time to get some new calipers (originals on 125K).

 

It sounds like your front rotors are warped too.

 

It all happens together. Normal braking - no pulse, but as soon as it locks up, then it all starts up. Maybe a slight warping is what's causing it to stick? Truck is getting to the point of having these types of issues every few months. I suppose it's still cheaper than a car payment, but not fun to deal with.

 

It's never a bad idea to service or replace the slider pins, but that isn't usually the problem. That problem typically causes warped rotors and premature inside pad wear.

If you take your caliper pistons out you'll see the O-rings that the piston slides on. Underneath those o-rings is where moisture causes rust to grow and push on the O-ring. This prevents the piston from completely letting go of the rotor.

I've taken calipers apart and successfully re-assembled them with the old parts, but I don't recommend it.

 

Excellent advice - thanks. I'll be taking it back up in the a.m. and see what needs to be replaced and hope nothing catches fire on the way up. It was spinning freely when jacked up - try to avoid braking on the drive. :eek_surprise:

 

I had the same problem with my 06 Titan I replaced everything it wound up being a stupid thing I replaced the brake light switch underneath the panel I had to pushed in too far so it was riding the brakes

 

My current 2017 SL gets what feels like a death wobble time to time. I felt like it happened once after applying the parking break but that would be odd that it would randomly cause shaking. I am planning on taking all four tires off today to inspect the slide pins and shoes. Brakes feel fine other wise and I don’t feel a shake in the steering wheel when applying the brakes. 105,300 miles on the truck. Just had it to the dealership yesterday and finally got them to update the TCM for the stupid shifting issues and they said the front passenger and rear driver brake lines need to be replaced soon. It’s odd that I look at those lines and don’t see what they might see so could it be when they bleed a line it doesn’t flow good?

 

My brakes were warped before I hit 90K miles. Replacement rotors and pads were so much better that I regretted not making the change sooner.

It seems odd to me that a brake line would need to be replaced. If you're in the rust belt, maybe. More often, the brake lines rust from the inside out when the fluid isn't replaced often enough.