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No, I am saying do the mod regardless of what you do in your truck, this is a must, OEM vent is crap and it clogs up very easily with dust and rust from normal everyday driving.
 
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BTW I had axle seals go out in my old 01 F150 and my sons 05 F150, very common in those trucks too, not sure if it is due to a bad vent or just bad design.
 
You can do it one of two ways. Buy the kit from Cajun (~$40) or do some sourcing on your own and save a few bucks. If you self-source, just be sure you get the right fitting (I ordered one from Nissan, a perfect fit) and plan on going to multiple parts stores to find a fuel filter without the check valve. I think, all told, I spent about $20-25 and a couple of hours sourcing time, plus 20min to install it.
For the DIY inclined, you can use either Nissan part #38323-C601A and 3/16" ID tubing, or Toyota part #90404-51026 and 1/4" ID tubing (this is the fitting commonly used in the complete kits), or Toyota part # 90404-51319 and 3/8" ID tubing. Get a cheap filter - no check valve - for the open end of the tubing such as O'Reilly's Part # 7-07103 (for 1/4" ID tubing).

The threads on these fittings are 1/8 BSPT (British Standard Pipe Taper thread), NOT 1/8" NPT (as you will find in your local hardware store) and NOT M10 straight thread metric. You might be able to force a 1/8" NPT fitting in - some folks have - but I wouldn't recommend it. There is a very slight difference in thread pitch - the correct 1/8" BSPT has 28 threads per inch, and the common 1/8 NPT is 27).

The Nissan and Toyota parts should be available for around $5 at local dealers. If you have trouble starting the new fitting, you can chase the threads in the axle with a 1/8"-28 BSPT tap (Sears has them for about $7 http://www.sears.com/vermont-america...-SPM8597308225).

Easy mod - hope this helps.
 
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Cajun has the Axle vent kit in stock and ready to ship. I use the Toyota nipple which works. Shoot me a pm, call or text number is on the website Cajun Bpipes | shreveport, LA 71129.
 
Uhhhhhhhhhhmmmm, nobody is adding any holes to their axle...folks are just changing out the thing the factory clogs the hole with, for something which lets it vent as it should. If this were a hoax, why'd the factory vent the front axle the way we're now venting the rear axle? Either you're being obtuse on purpose, or you have no idea what you're talking about.

Feel free not to mod yours. Just keep your dadgum mouth shut about having to swap your axle seals when it happens.
 
owns 2011 Nissan Titan Pro4X Crew Cab
Biggest hoax ever. The early seals leaking problem was supposedly fixed but either way another hole in your axle is just gonna cause more problems...
You would think that somebody that puts that much time and money into building a quality overland vehicle would actually know more about it, but apparently not...I would hate to buy one of your builds and have my seal fail (potentially out in the middle of nowhere) because you thought $30 worth of parts were a hoax.
 
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This is what my axle vent looked like at about 25k miles, completely clogged and rusted shut, no air could go in or out. After the issue was "supposedly fixed on earlier models"
Image
 
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Wow. I missed the sight link for "tactical overland vehicles." I'd have to call you a poser if you're building so-called overland vehicles and you're not high-venting the axle vents. First time you ford a stream, you'll have water intrusion and you'll only find out a few thousand miles later. Yeah, you really know your stuff.
 
owns 2011 Nissan Titan Pro4X Crew Cab
WOW This BoneTac guy is quite the clown. He has another post where he has a 1/4 ton Titan. HUMMMMMMM. I have never seen one. Mt axle vent picks were earlier in this post. Rusted completely shut.
 
As a new owner of a beautiful, slightly used (12,000 miles) Titan 2-wheel drive, I would like a bit more detail on the mod before I destroy my axle seals.

Is there a YouTube video on how to do it or pics of the steps?

Thanks a bunch.
 
Step 1. Unscrew rear axle vent which is between the differential and passenger wheel.
Step 2. Screw in Cajun's supplied vent.
Step 3. Run tubing along the back of the truck to the passenger rear light, secure along way with zip ties.
Step 4. Plug in Cajun's breather vent.
Step 5. Drink beer.

If you order Cajun's kit it comes with instructions and I think it has pictures. Should take 10-15 minutes.


For giggles here's the link to BoneTac's website for those of you that missed his BS. Overland Expedition Vehicle - Bone Tactical
 
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Cheaper option which is what I did.

Step 1. Remove cap from existing axle vent.
Step 2. Spend about $10 on some hose a filter and a hose clamp
Step 3. Attach hose to existing axle vent and run it along the back of the truck to the passenger rear light, secure along way with zip ties.
Step 4. Pat yourself on the back for spending $10 instead of $40
Step 5. Drink beer.
 
As I have said in several places, there are options for this mod. You can do as PRJ and others have done, and use the short stem of the existing vent, some hose, and be totally on the cheap. You can, on the other end of the spectrum, use the Cajun kit and spend about $35-40. Or you can do what I did, for about $15-20. I bought the Nissan hose barb ($4 at my local dealership), bought some fuel line and a few hose clamps ($10-12) and a fuel filter ($2-3 - just get one without the check valve) and DIY it. The choice is basically two things. Do you want to spend the time driving to grab the parts, or just spend the coin to have them delivered to your door? And do you want to use the short stub and risk disconnection or a longer barb and secure it better? All depends on what you do with your truck. Street driver with no off-roading? You likely could go the short stub route. Do a lot of off-roading in mountains or wooded areas? You might want the security of a longer barb. Only ever play offroad in the sand? Might get by with the short stub, since you won't have limbs and sticks to grab at the hose.
 
owns 2011 Nissan Titan Pro4X Crew Cab
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