From my notes, I have 10mm and 14mm

10mm for the skid plate screws

14mm for the oil drain screw.

The oil filter might be screwed on tight if the dealers or shops have been changing your oil.

6.5 quarts of oil.

Any pan/container that has a screw cap will work so it's easy to take for recycling.


Here's what I do.

Warm up engine (2-5 mins) Then turn engine off.
Pop hood and unscrew motor oil cap.
Unscrew skid plate screws. 10mm
Place pan/container under truck.
Unscrew oil drain screw. 14mm
Let the oil drain, clean screw and screw it back on.
Move the pan/container under oil filter and unscrew filter and let it drain.
Get some oil on your finger and run through the rubber gasket of the new filter. Then screw on new filter.
Clean off any oil and replace the skid plate.
6.5 quarts of oil and replace the motor oil cap.
Start up your truck again.

That's pretty much it.

 

Pick up one of these at Autozone: Filter Wrench The one in the link may not be the right size. I can't check the size until I get home. I use a 2" extension to get the OEM filter off. I use K&N filters now with the welded nut so I don't have a need for a wrench.

 

Once you get the skid plate off, this is a good vehicle to learn on.

1. Pull skid plate. 4 bolts. Raise hood. Remove oil filler cap.
2. Position drain pan. Oil will arch out initially, then drip straight down. Move your oil catch as needed.
3. Remove oil drain plug. You will get a bit on your hand. I keep some paper towels and 2 rags within easy reach.
4. Move oil catch under oil filter.
5. Remove oil filter, could be tight. I use a rubber strap with plastic handle, it works ok, it is STP I think.
6. Once everything is finished driping, wipe down with paper towel. Prime new oil filter with fresh oil. Just a bit on your finger, wipe around the rubber casket on the new filter.
7. Install drain plug(snug), and new filter(hand tight). Most people forget to have both installed before adding fresh oil. They usually only do that one time.
8. I use a funnel to add new oil, it is not necessary though.
9. Let truck idle once everything is in (oil and Oil filler cap) Check for leaks.

Good Luck.

 

yeah the first time i did my oil i jacked up the screws on the skid plate that thing nearly had me ready to give up lol its pretty basic nothin to hard. looking forward to the next change as i will be goin synthetic

 

i can't hardly wait to change the oil on mine, it will be soooo much easier than crawling around under a cavalier.

It's also a good idea to run the engine for a minute after your initial fill, shut it off, let the oil settle and check level again. I like to run my oil on the very top of the safe zone.

 

Another benefit of doing it yourself is the cost savings. Locally, Autozone has a deal on Mobil 1 synthetic every now and again, 5 quarts for about 30 dollars, and Mobil 1 filter for free is you buy the oil. So figure about 40 dollars for a synthetic oil change after you buy a couple of extra quarts. On a truck this large, even Walmart will charge close to 60 dollars, and they may not put your skid plates back on (true story)!

 

they got that deal in htown right now i dont need an oil change but i went ahead and bought it. walmart charges 30 bucks for the normal oil change and they vacum out your truck even when you tell them not to i dunno bout you guys but i dont like strangers in me truck

 

For draining, I added this:

QuickOilDrainValve.com - the best way to change oil

It's great, just hold up a 2 liter bottle and be done with it. A couple other members on here are using it as well.

 

I just changed my oil last week using one of these for the first time (put it on last oil change) It takes a little longer to drain the oil out but its nice not having to worry about crush filters and digging the plug out of the oil covered drain pan screen.

Word of caution on the skid plate access pannel... the allen screws are soft and strip VERY easily. Make sure you put a little anti-cease on the threads to help get them off next time.

Also you will make a mess so keep some rags around you like previously stated.

I have been using the Purolator PureOne filter and it has the textured coating on it (like fram does) which makes it easy to get on and off without tools so I would recommend that filter (also a few dollars cheaper than the M1 filter)

lastly DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE FILTER only hand tight!!!

good luck its easy.

 

For what it's worth, I highly recommend using the factory oil filter. Around six months ago I used a Wal-Mart brand filter and noticed a whining sound coming from the engine shortly after that. I mentioned it to the dealership and as soon as they changed the oil and used the factory filter the sound went away.

Apparently I'm not the only one this has happened to. The same dealership said he had 4 others in the past few months with the same results. Others on this forum have expierienced this as well.

 

If you are really serious about your oil change; do research and you will see that the factory filter along with any other premium filter is the way to go. Most fram filters have been tested and just do not hold up over time. IMO, why by synthetic oil and then filter it with something inferior. Hope that helps you out.

 

Hello,
I am the Technical Manager for FRAM filters. I wonder why you make that statement at all. If it is based on people cutting open filters on the net and offering a unscientific and opinion based evaluation, what is that worth? That is simply tribal knowledge with no basis in engineering facts. We make the best filter on the market for those using synthetic oil, the part number is
XG7317. That filter has capacity to go 10k between oil changes and we say so right on the box. It also has filtering efficiency in the 99% range, far superior to any OE style filter. The Extended Guard filter has a stainless steel screen with two layers of full synthetic filter media, metal end caps, silicone rubber anti drain back valves and high flow bypass valve. FRAM filters are OE on many vehicles, including Honda and Subaru.

 

@motorking - It is not hard to find negative press for Fram oil filters, online or otherwise. If you would really like to know how you compare, I suggest spending some time on BITOG forums. This is a highly regarded mecca of oil information. Plenty of technical data so you can see, as the world does, the validity of your claims.

PS - no one cares what you write on the box. To quote Tommy Boy "I can take a crap in a box and slap a guarantee on the side of it, and you still just have a guaranteed piece of crap."



@OP - Be careful of hot oil if you are new to this. You don't have to warm up the truck first, and I might suggest skipping this step for first timers. Hot oil running down your arm = not cool.

On Filters, the OEM is actually very, very, good. Wix/Napa Gold, Purolator PureOne, Amsoil, K&N, are also excellent filters.

 

I have spent plenty of time on the BITOG forum, some good information, some is just simply not true at all. I guess if its on the net, it must be true. I would happily compare our filters performance to any of those you mention.
Amsoil and K+N are not even oil filter manufacturers at all. They source their products and have no filter test labs or oil filter engineering depts.

 

You don't have to remove the skid plate as pointed out by others. Since you have the off-road package...To access the oil filter, you remove the access door on the skid plate using an allen wrench. If you can't get the filter off by hand then purchase a filter wrench to get it off. Once you put a new filter on, tighten it by hand. That is all that is needed.

You will need at least a 7qt or greater drain pan to collect the used oil in. It's also nice to have someone in town that will take the oil. Some of the local oil places may take it. I have a local mechanic in town that takes my oil for his oil furnace that he uses to heat the shop.

The manual says 6.5 quarts, but myself and others on this site have never found that to be enough. I would go with 7 quarts. If you put in 6.5 quarts, start the engine and let it warm up and circulate, then shut it off and wait for 5 minutes for all the oil to drain back to the pan and then check it. You will see that you will be 1/2 quart low.

Since your doing it yourself I would use synthetic oil, since the price of the synthetic oil and a filter will be about the same price as what the jiffy lube charges you for changing your regular oil and filter. Plus with synthetic you can go longer between oil changes. I only change mine twice a year. Once in the spring and once in the fall and I average about 20,000 a year.

Oh... And yes... Stay away from Fram Oil filters.

 

I also replace the copper crush washer on the oil pan nut.

Flat side to the pan.

 

I like Mobil 1 and Valvoline super syn for the oil. I'm willing to try Royal Purple.

For filters I shy away from Fram. I know a few people who have had them come apart. I like the Mobil 1 and Bosch filters. I've heard Purolator is the BEST, but I can't get one around here.

 

I wish some of you guys wouldn't have been so mean to the "fram guy", he seemed alright to me. I was actually hoping his brother "mr. champion", could chime in and tell us how champion plugs are far superior and meet and exceed oem. It's what NASA uses.
Never had a problem with factory nissan filters. Wix are also good.

 

bosch 3323

you'll love it.

even the premium frams leave a lot to be desired. i had the toughguard whatever fancy name they gave that junk once. never again

 

I only run Mobil 1 or K&N gold filters with my synthetic oil changes. I am pretty anal and change my synthetic oil every 7500-8000 miles. To the guy who used a Walmart oil filter, you get what you pay for. Don't jeopardize your expensive engine by trying to save $5. If you wreck your engine, it is entirely your fault for being cheap. This is probably the cheapest yet most critical maintenance item on your truck. Treat it as such.