I finally got around to installing my newly purchased Doug Thorley ceramic-coated shorties this weekend. Just thought I'd give a step-by-step of the process for those who are considering the same install. Instructions are available online from Stillen, but they are not very detailed and the instructions are mainly for 2WD Titans.
I would have included pics, but it was dark and I only had my iPhone to take pics with. My hands were greasy so that wasn't going to happen.
Required tools:
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Jack stands
Jack
3/8" Socket wrench
3/8" Short (Stubby) socket wrench (not required but useful)
Various 3/8"-drive sockets (10, 11, 12, 14mm)
Various 3/8" socket extensions (2 - 6" ext., 1 - 4")
3/8" Socket universal joint
Various sized box-end wrenches (preferably with a ratcheting end)
O2 socket or equivalent crows foot
Small piece of 2x4 lumber
Rubber mallet (not 100% necessary but might prove useful)
Mechanic's Gloves - I consider this a MUST HAVE if you don't want scratched and beaten knuckles (trust me)!
CHEATER BAR - A DEFINITE MUST HAVE - 80% of the bolts will be very difficult to remove without the use of a cheater bar. A piece of 1" pipe or square tubing around 15" long will work. Anything that can slip over the end of your socket wrench for more leverage.
Required tools for shorty header installation:
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Reciprocating saw or grinder with cut-off wheel
Die Grinder or Dremel tool (for de-burring and cleaning the surface of the cats)
Flux-core or MIG welder/equipment
Step 1:
Park truck near a useable electrical outlet. This might not be needed with a longtube installation but if you are installing shorties and plan on doing the welding yourself, this is not something you want to overlook. Chock rear wheels and apply parking brake.
Step 2:
Slightly loosen front wheel hub nuts. Jack up the front end of each side of the truck. Jack points are just behind the wheel on the frame of each side. Once each side is up, support that side with a jackstand. I placed the jack stands just behind the stock jack point.
Step 3:
Once the vehicle is supported, remove both front wheels. Then remove the wheel well liners by removing screws and any clips holding them in. Keep each set of screws and clips in a labeled ziploc bag for safe keeping.
Step 4:
Unbolt both b-pipes on the exhaust. There are 2 bolts on each end of each pipe. It is not necessary to remove the O2 sensors from the b-pipes. For now, leave the b-pipes attached...only remove the bolts. Save and label them.
Step 5:
Remove both skid plates from underneath the engine. This is pretty self-explanatory, just unbolt them. Again, save and label your bolts.
Step 6:
Some people have recommended dropping the front differential at this point. I opted not to and it worked out just fine. It would probably make accessing some bolts easier and would give you more clearance to jack up the engine, but to me, it wasn't worth the trouble. If you choose to do this, you are on your own!
Step 7:
Cut a piece of 2x4 approximately 3"x5". You will use this to jack the engine. Crawl underneath the engine and look for an opening on the front side of the differential. You'll see a flat portion of the aluminum floor pan. This is the jack point for the motor. There is a ridge towards one side of the pan. I chose to cut the 2x4 so that it fit perfectly on the flat part beside the ridge. Make sure that your 2x4 and jack will clear the power steering line that runs through the area. I used the stock jack and had to use a cinder block to achieve the height needed. Use common sense here.
Step 8:
Once you have decided on jack placement, place the 2x4 between the jack and the pan and jack up the engine slightly to relieve pressure on the motor mount bolts.
Step 9:
Look directly above the front differential on either side of the engine block and you will see a black piece of square tubing going from the frame to the engine block. These are the motor mounts. A flange on the end of the tubing connects the motor to the frame via 4 bolts. You will need to use your creativity to access these bolts, especially with the driver's side which is slightly more concealed. I used a combination of extensions and a universal joint to break the bolts and backed them out a few turns. After being broken, they should turn easily by hand if the motor has been supported enough by the jack to take the weight off of them. Back them out until they almost come out of the block, then turn them back in a few turns. You can remove them completely, which would allow you to jack the motor up more later and while this might make some things easier, it could be difficult to get them threaded into the block later. I opted not to remove them.
Step 10:
Now that the motor mount bolts have been backed out, continue jacking up the motor, keeping an eye on the motor mount bolts to make sure that you do not jack the motor up farther than they will allow.
Step 11:
Once you have reached the maximum height allowed by the bolts (for me it was around 1 to 1-1/2"), you may now begin to remove the heat shields. Unbolt them from the exhaust manifold and remove them from the vehicle. They can be somewhat difficult to pull out and some people cut them into pieces. I found that I was able to get them out in one piece by bending them flat with my hands and a pair of pliers. It took me maybe 20 minutes for both shields.
Step 12:
Now that the shields are gone, remove the O2 sensors from each manifold. The easiest tool to accomplish this would be an O2 socket, available at your local auto store for around $10. I used a 22mm crows foot, which worked perfectly. If you've never seen one, it is basically a box-end wrench with a square hole for a 3/8" ratchet. I used an extension to reach the sensor. Once removed, rest each sensor in a safe place. I placed them on top of the motor in a stable position. Be careful not to hit the delicate tip on anything.
Step 13:
Remove the bolt holding in the dipstick tube. You will not be able to fully remove the tube until the exhaust manifold is free.
Step 14:
Unbolt the passenger side exhaust manifold from the motor. Again, you will need to use your creativity here. Some bolts are hard to reach and will require the use of socket extensions and a universal joint. Once the bolts are removed, pull the dipstick out of the engine block. Then pull the manifold away from the block and move it toward the front of the truck to pull it away from the b-pipe. Now rest the b-pipe on the crossmember that lies directly beneath it and move it slightly to the side to allow the exhaust manifold to be removed through the space that was previously occupied by the cats.
Step 15:
Repeat Step 14 on the driver's side, omitting the step for the dipstick tube.
Step 16:
If you are installing long tube headers, which replace the front cats, skip to Step 19. If you are installing short tube headers, take the stock manifolds and, using a cutoff wheel or reciprocating saw, cut off the catalytic converter 3/8" above the weld that connects it to the exhaust manifold, just underneath the O2 bungs. Mark each cat "driver's side" and "passenger side" so you don't get them mixed up.
Step 17:
Install the shorties without cats onto the motor using only 3 of the 8 bolts. Once they are on, jack the motor back down. You may choose to tighten the motor mount bolts to make sure you are aligned properly, but I just eye-balled it to make sure the mounts sat flush with the engine.
Step 18:
Once the motor is down, place the cats into the flange of the header and align with the b-pipes. Don't skip bolting everything up here, as it needs to be aligned perfectly before welding. Once everything is aligned and bolt it up, triple-check alignment, disconnect the truck's battery, then tack weld the cats to the headers. I put three tacks on each header and it held fine. Jack the motor back up. Now you may remove all of the components again and complete your welds.
Step 19:
You're almost done! Installation is the reverse of removal, but for sake of order, I'll run through it quickly. Reinstall exhaust manifold gaskets and headers and o2 sensors (long tubes may require lengthening the 02 wires), reinstall the dipstick tube, connect the headers to the b-pipes, lower the engine (still allowing the jack to support the motor slightly), tighten motor mount bolts and remove the jack, tighten all bolts on the b-pipes, reinstall wheel well liners and skid plates, bolt on the wheels, lower the vehicle from jack stands and connect the battery.
Step 20:
Crank her up and enjoy your improved power and throaty growl!
Was this installation tough? Yes.
Did I curse and swear? Yes.
Did my fingers bleed? Yes.
Did I cry? A little. :crybaby:
Would I enjoy doing it again? Can't say I'd look forward to it.
Would I do it again if it meant saving $600 in labor costs? You bet your arse I would.
:cheers:
I would have included pics, but it was dark and I only had my iPhone to take pics with. My hands were greasy so that wasn't going to happen.
Required tools:
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Jack stands
Jack
3/8" Socket wrench
3/8" Short (Stubby) socket wrench (not required but useful)
Various 3/8"-drive sockets (10, 11, 12, 14mm)
Various 3/8" socket extensions (2 - 6" ext., 1 - 4")
3/8" Socket universal joint
Various sized box-end wrenches (preferably with a ratcheting end)
O2 socket or equivalent crows foot
Small piece of 2x4 lumber
Rubber mallet (not 100% necessary but might prove useful)
Mechanic's Gloves - I consider this a MUST HAVE if you don't want scratched and beaten knuckles (trust me)!
CHEATER BAR - A DEFINITE MUST HAVE - 80% of the bolts will be very difficult to remove without the use of a cheater bar. A piece of 1" pipe or square tubing around 15" long will work. Anything that can slip over the end of your socket wrench for more leverage.
Required tools for shorty header installation:
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Reciprocating saw or grinder with cut-off wheel
Die Grinder or Dremel tool (for de-burring and cleaning the surface of the cats)
Flux-core or MIG welder/equipment
Step 1:
Park truck near a useable electrical outlet. This might not be needed with a longtube installation but if you are installing shorties and plan on doing the welding yourself, this is not something you want to overlook. Chock rear wheels and apply parking brake.
Step 2:
Slightly loosen front wheel hub nuts. Jack up the front end of each side of the truck. Jack points are just behind the wheel on the frame of each side. Once each side is up, support that side with a jackstand. I placed the jack stands just behind the stock jack point.
Step 3:
Once the vehicle is supported, remove both front wheels. Then remove the wheel well liners by removing screws and any clips holding them in. Keep each set of screws and clips in a labeled ziploc bag for safe keeping.
Step 4:
Unbolt both b-pipes on the exhaust. There are 2 bolts on each end of each pipe. It is not necessary to remove the O2 sensors from the b-pipes. For now, leave the b-pipes attached...only remove the bolts. Save and label them.
Step 5:
Remove both skid plates from underneath the engine. This is pretty self-explanatory, just unbolt them. Again, save and label your bolts.
Step 6:
Some people have recommended dropping the front differential at this point. I opted not to and it worked out just fine. It would probably make accessing some bolts easier and would give you more clearance to jack up the engine, but to me, it wasn't worth the trouble. If you choose to do this, you are on your own!
Step 7:
Cut a piece of 2x4 approximately 3"x5". You will use this to jack the engine. Crawl underneath the engine and look for an opening on the front side of the differential. You'll see a flat portion of the aluminum floor pan. This is the jack point for the motor. There is a ridge towards one side of the pan. I chose to cut the 2x4 so that it fit perfectly on the flat part beside the ridge. Make sure that your 2x4 and jack will clear the power steering line that runs through the area. I used the stock jack and had to use a cinder block to achieve the height needed. Use common sense here.
Step 8:
Once you have decided on jack placement, place the 2x4 between the jack and the pan and jack up the engine slightly to relieve pressure on the motor mount bolts.
Step 9:
Look directly above the front differential on either side of the engine block and you will see a black piece of square tubing going from the frame to the engine block. These are the motor mounts. A flange on the end of the tubing connects the motor to the frame via 4 bolts. You will need to use your creativity to access these bolts, especially with the driver's side which is slightly more concealed. I used a combination of extensions and a universal joint to break the bolts and backed them out a few turns. After being broken, they should turn easily by hand if the motor has been supported enough by the jack to take the weight off of them. Back them out until they almost come out of the block, then turn them back in a few turns. You can remove them completely, which would allow you to jack the motor up more later and while this might make some things easier, it could be difficult to get them threaded into the block later. I opted not to remove them.
Step 10:
Now that the motor mount bolts have been backed out, continue jacking up the motor, keeping an eye on the motor mount bolts to make sure that you do not jack the motor up farther than they will allow.
Step 11:
Once you have reached the maximum height allowed by the bolts (for me it was around 1 to 1-1/2"), you may now begin to remove the heat shields. Unbolt them from the exhaust manifold and remove them from the vehicle. They can be somewhat difficult to pull out and some people cut them into pieces. I found that I was able to get them out in one piece by bending them flat with my hands and a pair of pliers. It took me maybe 20 minutes for both shields.
Step 12:
Now that the shields are gone, remove the O2 sensors from each manifold. The easiest tool to accomplish this would be an O2 socket, available at your local auto store for around $10. I used a 22mm crows foot, which worked perfectly. If you've never seen one, it is basically a box-end wrench with a square hole for a 3/8" ratchet. I used an extension to reach the sensor. Once removed, rest each sensor in a safe place. I placed them on top of the motor in a stable position. Be careful not to hit the delicate tip on anything.
Step 13:
Remove the bolt holding in the dipstick tube. You will not be able to fully remove the tube until the exhaust manifold is free.
Step 14:
Unbolt the passenger side exhaust manifold from the motor. Again, you will need to use your creativity here. Some bolts are hard to reach and will require the use of socket extensions and a universal joint. Once the bolts are removed, pull the dipstick out of the engine block. Then pull the manifold away from the block and move it toward the front of the truck to pull it away from the b-pipe. Now rest the b-pipe on the crossmember that lies directly beneath it and move it slightly to the side to allow the exhaust manifold to be removed through the space that was previously occupied by the cats.
Step 15:
Repeat Step 14 on the driver's side, omitting the step for the dipstick tube.
Step 16:
If you are installing long tube headers, which replace the front cats, skip to Step 19. If you are installing short tube headers, take the stock manifolds and, using a cutoff wheel or reciprocating saw, cut off the catalytic converter 3/8" above the weld that connects it to the exhaust manifold, just underneath the O2 bungs. Mark each cat "driver's side" and "passenger side" so you don't get them mixed up.
Step 17:
Install the shorties without cats onto the motor using only 3 of the 8 bolts. Once they are on, jack the motor back down. You may choose to tighten the motor mount bolts to make sure you are aligned properly, but I just eye-balled it to make sure the mounts sat flush with the engine.
Step 18:
Once the motor is down, place the cats into the flange of the header and align with the b-pipes. Don't skip bolting everything up here, as it needs to be aligned perfectly before welding. Once everything is aligned and bolt it up, triple-check alignment, disconnect the truck's battery, then tack weld the cats to the headers. I put three tacks on each header and it held fine. Jack the motor back up. Now you may remove all of the components again and complete your welds.
Step 19:
You're almost done! Installation is the reverse of removal, but for sake of order, I'll run through it quickly. Reinstall exhaust manifold gaskets and headers and o2 sensors (long tubes may require lengthening the 02 wires), reinstall the dipstick tube, connect the headers to the b-pipes, lower the engine (still allowing the jack to support the motor slightly), tighten motor mount bolts and remove the jack, tighten all bolts on the b-pipes, reinstall wheel well liners and skid plates, bolt on the wheels, lower the vehicle from jack stands and connect the battery.
Step 20:
Crank her up and enjoy your improved power and throaty growl!
Was this installation tough? Yes.
Did I curse and swear? Yes.
Did my fingers bleed? Yes.
Did I cry? A little. :crybaby:
Would I enjoy doing it again? Can't say I'd look forward to it.
Would I do it again if it meant saving $600 in labor costs? You bet your arse I would.
:cheers:
