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Heater valve part number and...

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173K views 83 replies 27 participants last post by  abnatare  
#1 ·
hi,

so i discovered last week when i needed to defrost my windshield that i had no heat. of course i checked my coolant level and it was good. the next step was to jump on here and search. sure enough, i'm not the first.

Yes, it is the in-line heater (whatever) valve.
Yes, I was able to manually adjust the valve to get heat.

so... i took note of the part number and have searched several different ways, but without luck.

Does ANYONE know where to get this part? I'd really prefer not deal with the local dealerships.

Part No.
PA6T/XT-GF35

I found this, but I'm not sure it's the correct part:
2006 Nissan Titan AIR CONDITIONER & HEATER Heater components Expansion valve Parts

Thanks for any help!
rex
 
#3 ·
thanks baseballfanz.

yea, i found that. actually, i went there first. i used them last month for the evap valve - gonna order the filter too next week.

i'm not the best parts diagram reader... i don't (now or two days ago) see anything on that page, in any diagram that looks like the part i need, has the part number that i pulled of the part or has the name *valve*.
 
#9 · (Edited)
Image


Page ATC-36. It calls it the 'water cut valve'.

Seen it called 'water valve'.

I've also seen it called "water cut off valve" elsewhere.

On another page it states that this valve is really only used to turn off flow of hot water to the heater while running a/c; i presume to allow the a/c to do more cooling.

Still no luck finding it for sale on line; have sent email to site sponsor to see if they have a part#.
 
#6 ·
i'm planning on getting in there tomorrow. i still haven't been able to find the part, i have tip, but i've been too lazy to follow-up on it. i'll most certainly post a couple pics.

as a temp fix, you can pull the cover off the valve and manually turn the top gear (closest to the end that bolts to the firewall). i think counterclockwise opens the valve to allow hot water into the core. i did mine about half way. it works okay... i get heat, not hot, but enough to defrost. someone else actually posted this tidbit... thanks to whoever that was...
 
#8 ·
I need this part number as well.

I know i found it online about a year ago, but since the manual adjustment worked i never ordered it.

But i'm tired of having it in the back of my mind, so i want to order it now.

Seems like thse "OEM" online places aren't so OEM anymore, just kinda sorta.

Wonder if my truck is still under warranty....
 
#10 ·
Hey Guys...

This is a tough one to match up...the part i'm coming up with is the Hose Assembly Inlet (aka Heater control valve) -- Part number 92400-7s52a. It lists for $125.87. My price is $100.70 plus shipping.

Scott
 
#12 ·
That's what it looks like in my picture...unfortunately I don't have one in stock to look at. If you place your order, and it doesn't look like that when I receive it...I will gladly reimburse your purchase and not ship out!

Scott
 
#13 ·
I havent even had time to open up my hood yet, but the manual adjustment is on that valve somewhere? Is it basically a solenoid then, that fails closed and cuts off hot water all together?
 
#14 ·
It's not a manual adjustment; it's a matter of taking it apart and disconnecting the motor from the valve's stem; and then manually turning it.

Not a solenoid, it's an electrically actuated valve. Doesn't 'fail' closed, but closes on a call for a/c (supposedly) and opens on a call for heat.
 
#24 ·
Got the part in today. Looks like this one is direct drive... with a significantly larger motor (gonna have to check amp draw and see if i need bigger fuse/wires or even a relay, gonna have to figure out if it is the same voltage i guess too). It does have the same plug though it seems, so i'll probably just hook it up and see if it works (my truck is still under warranty anyway; but dealing with my local nissan stealership sucks!). Atleast this one doesn't have the double helix volkswagen engineered overly complex ridiculously inept and overthought design the original one had. This one will be a bit more involved to manually open it... or atleast more screws; star screws. Either way this one looks much stronger/better than the original design. The clamp that holds the bolted-to-firewall part to the valve/motor is a bit cheesy; and kinda looks like it is meant to have a plastic cover over it all... maybe i'll check out and 09' or 10' and see what it looks like on new vehicles... probably not though.

Don't have time to install it today/tonight, but maybe tomorrow. But first i reckon i'll take it apart and see how it works!

As far as "bosch part number" perhaps: 1 147 412 187 or 050527 B. Made in France. Bosch.
These numbers don't cross to anything as far as i have found.

Seems it comes as an assembly with the hoses because of the plastic hose clamps... not likely able to install these without equipment, and removing them would destroy the clamps. (and that would cost you a whopping $2 at the local auto store for regular hose clamps, $8 for anodized ones). So i can't just look inside it and see what type of valve is in it (cuz i don't have $2).

:hi:
 
#25 · (Edited)
Part fits great.

But the electrical connection is different!

Bummer.

:ftard: :bangit:

Think i need part #: 92400-A60003 ?maybe? or 92400-A60005 ?maybe?

But i'd rather not get the same junk part as original. I guess i'll have to find out what voltage this thing is and find a plug for it, and wire in a relay for it...... :(


Took it apart today. This new one is a solenoid, not a motor. And since the motor is energized for +/- 20 seconds on heat call... a solenoid won't work. Definitely don't get this part; totally incorrect. I'm gonna bring her in and get it fixed under warranty now; i'm done. $100 lesson.

Went and looked at an 09' to see if it had a different valve. Same valve... but it had been crushed somehow (salesman started believing my story at this point). Test drove another 09', the heat didn't work (lol); didn't look at that valve though. Looked under hood of a 10'; same old valve; that one worked. It's being fixed on mine; under warranty (one month left on warranty).
 
#26 ·
Knights of Columbus what is the deal with this friggin piece? Thank you for the update T.D., I'm sorry it came by way of you throwing away $100, can't Fontana take it back? Or did you mangle it?

TD, I don't understand how you mean that a solenoid would present a problem if energized for +/- 20 seconds? Isn't that the function of almost all solenoids, just to energize for a duration to allow whatever medium to flow through.

How can this replacement part not have the correct wiring plug? Can you splice over the one off the original? That is, if I'm following you correctly in assuming it was the plug you meant when you said "electrical connection"....
 
#27 ·
The plug: very different (and that is what i meant basically). Sure it could be chopped off the original wiring harness (not something i want to do) and solder/crimp in a new one.... but where to find such a plug... that's the problem. And then i don't even know if the voltage and ampacity of the circuit is the same anyway.

Typically a solenoid would be energized (or de-energized) for the duration of medium flow, not just for 20 seconds. Such as a liquid line solenoid valve on an air conditioner... energizes to open the duration of runtime, de-energizes when a/c not running (and during pumpdown cycle blah blah blah); and also serves to remain closed during a power loss to prevent liquid migration of refrigerant to crankcase.... blah blah blah blah.... So basically a solenoid energizing for 20 seconds would not be a problem; if this were it's intended purpose; such as on a pump out cycle on an a/c (which would close a valve, typically the txv, for a brief time to reduce the pressure in evaporator and therefore boil off any migrated or settled liquid in evaporator; therefore preventing the liquid from entering the compressor and destroying it). (btw: i work on a/c stuff; and i'm sure this whole paragraph just bored you to tears.)

Solenoid vs valve: The original valve was driven for approx 20 seconds. On a need for hot water it would drive it open for 20 to be sure (heh) it was open, and then it remained open. And on a call for no hot water it would send opposite polarity for 20 seconds to ensure it closed (heh) and remained closed. This solenoid; which by my estimation is normally open (that is, the 'valve' is open when power is not applied); well this solenoid, if only energized for 20 seconds (reverse or normal polarity) would close the valve for only twenty seconds, and then reopen. (from my brief peek at this new valve i figured it was normally open; and closes by the solenoid magnet pushing the valve in; by way of attracting a larger metal mass at the 'other' end. So basically this solenoid would act same as manually opening the original valve (clockwise to open per my original thread)... except with a monkey under the hood closing it for 20 seconds at initial heat or initial cool call.... basically useless in this application. Oh and btw: this new valve flows considerably less fluid than the original valve (according to my approximations).

My guess is this new valve is for a vehicle with a completely different a/c heat controls package... i don't know.

As far as returning the part: no i haven't mangled it. But i did use it. And I very rarely ever return something... unless it's just plain broken. I bought it, i assumed the risk, and i lost this time. (although it would be nice if Fontana offered it...) (but i haven't asked directly, and won't. and perhaps he/she hasn't seen this thread again since my last posting(s).) (no biggie)
 
#32 ·
I have the same problem, the only difference is when I feel both hoses, they are hot. I get very little heat, if any. I have the new style valve. Can that valve be manually opened for heat. What part did the dealer replace, and did that fix the problem? I am tempted to cut the hoses, and bypass the valve. Has anyone tried that yet?

Scott
 
#34 ·
If you have hot water on both sides of the valve... then the valve isn't the problem... atleast not the main problem.

Is the other hose (the one that returns from the heater back to the engine) hot also? If it is, then you're not getting airflow over the heat coil... either a very dirty coil (not likely) or the air flap isn't opening fully.

You have the new style valve? What year/model do you have (if it is in your sig and i missed it, nevermind).

My heat is working great now; they replaced it with the same one as original. Warranty is done now though. :( Time for some mods.
 
#33 ·
See, with what info you provided and the recent strings of bad actuators/cam gears associated with our cabin ventilation systems, I'm thinking the two problems may be linked and possibly piggybacking one another.
 
#37 ·
my ventilation actuator or gear grinds too, even when I leave the climate knobs alone (as I do in winter anyway). I took apart my motor assembly yesterday and it works correctly so I'm thinking the same thing-that the flap isn't opening up all the way. I don't really want to tear into the dash but it looks like I may have too