Yeah, you need to take the wheels off. And you need a helper to push and release the brake pedal while you open and close each bleed screw. If you change the factory caliper bleed screws to speed bleeder screws (which have a check valve), you can do it by yourself.

1. support truck on jack stands
2. remove wheels
3. slip a tight fitting plastic hose over brake caliper bleed screw and immerse other end of tube in a little bit of brake fluid in a jar
4. loosen bleed screw and instruct helper to depress brake pedal
5. tighten bleed screw and instruct helper to release brake pedal

Repeat steps 4 and 5 a few times until you don't see any bubbles coming out the end of the tube

6. replenish brake fluid level in master cylinder as necessary

7. repeat the foregoing steps around the truck at each caliper. In my experience, three times around yields a firm pedal.

8. reinstall wheels and torque lugs.

There are some vacuum bleed devices that you can buy. (search Amazon for brake bleed) I have never tried anything except speed bleeder screws.

 

Thanks, best. Do the bleeder screws that you referenced eliminate any of the steps or just make it easier instead of loosening and tightening the stock bleeder screws?

 

The speed bleeders have a check valve so that you don't have to keep loosening and tightening the screws as your helper pumps the pedal. You put the plastic hose on the screw, loosen the screw, insert the end of the hose in a jar with some brake fluid, get into the truck and pump the pedal a few times, get out, tighten the screw, replenish the master cylinder fluid level, and move on to the next caliper. It becomes a one man operation, which is essential for me as I can't stand to listen to the wife whining about being compelled to operate the brake pedal upon command.

 

Little known tip here. First off, no need to remove the wheels. If your willing to crawl under......you judge what is easier.

Second, you can do this alone without speed bleeders. It is called a gravity bleed and it works! just remove the cap on the master and crack open the bleeder for the RR. After the RR has dripped for a bit (use a hose) close it and move to the LR, then RF then finally the LF. I have done this to many many cars through the years and it works almost 100 percent. Make sure the truck is somewhat level. Periodically make sure the master cylinder stays full of NEW dot 3. Don't pull the old stuff off the shelf....it absorbs moisture as it sits.

I actually prefer to do it this way as the pedal pump method forces the rubber cups inside the master cylinder to travel through all of the crap that builds up in the end of the master.....it can, and has caused the master to fail shortly after bleeding.

 

in the manual it mentions that the torque for the bleed valves are 69 ft - lbs (front bleed valves) and 73 ft - lbs (rear bleed valves.)

is that right?? It seems a bit much for a tiny little bleed valve




BTW, I bought the speedi-bleed Ultimate Brake Bleeder & Fluid Flush Tool. That thing is totally awesome.

1. first I killed the pressure to the abs by taking the negative cable off the battery. (the speedi bleeder ADDS pressure to the system, so remember to take the battery cable off!!)

2. Then I got 4 gatorade bottles.. drilled 5/16 inch holes in them and ran 2' 6'' clear hose. The clear hose was 5/16 OD... I attached them to the bleed valves...

3. then I filled up my speedi-bleeder with a quart of dot 3

4. attached my speedi-bleeder to the front tire for pressure

5. hooked up the other end to the reservoir

6. set the pressure to 15 psi

7. then I bled the brakes 1 by 1... rear right, rear left, front right, then front left.

It was easy as cake.

Don't forget your towels, nitrile gloves AND a water supply just in case you get any on your eyes!!!

Having a water supply is the most important thing.. for your own safety.

 

in the manual it mentions that the torque for the bleed valves are 69 ft - lbs (front bleed valves) and 73 ft - lbs (rear bleed valves.)

is that right?? It seems a bit much for a tiny little bleed valve[/COLOR

It is 69 inch-lbs since it says 7.8 N-m, which is around 5.7 ft-lbs.

 

you dont have to take any wheels off. i did mine just by laying under the truck with a small wrench that fits the bleed screw. one of the bleed screws broke off though so i just loosened the brake line that goes to the caliber and it worked the same. only took about 10 minutes with someone pumping the brakes for me.