I would think you need a bigger amp for both. Is the amp bridgeable? If so, you might try hooking just one speaker up bridged to both channels and see if the one hits like it's supposed too, if it does, then you know the amp might be too small for both speakers.

 

Sounds like you need more oomph... I had two JL W3 12" subs wired at 2 ohms from a 500w RMS JL 500-1v2. Hit pretty damn hard.

Sold one sub, so the other w3 was wired at 4ohm. It hits almost as hard as before, with just one sub. I vote new amp!

 

Well the main reason why i purchased what i did, was my buddy has a honda accord with the same amp, pushing 2 kicker 10s. and theyre the cheapest kickers you ca buy. i think they push 150RMS to each. The ones i bought are rated at 400 a piece. So i figured it would hit even harder then his, but im not getting the same results. I know a car, and a trunk helps the sub because it acts as a second enclosure and all, but im just dissapointed.

 

If I am reading this correctly, your amp is rated at 500 watts @ 2 ohms. I do not know of very many alpine amps that are 1 ohm stable. First I will need to know what ohm the voice coils are on the subs. I know they are dual voice coils but at what ohm. If they are 4 ohm DVC then you will have to wire them in series and net a 4 ohm load to be safe. If they are 2 ohm DVC then you can wire them in parallel and net a 2 ohm load. Regardless, the subs are capable of 800 watts total and you will only be able to get 500 watts from that amp. You need an amp that will push 750 watts at whatever ohm load you wire your subs at.

 

i have a mono alpine that is 375 rms and rated at 1 ohm. it used to push 2 12" kicker comp VRs and it did the trick just fine. Plus if your listening to that type of crap you would be better off with a ported box. It works with that type of bass better. A sealed box is better for music that uses real instruments, not the synthesized rap bass

 

Give more specs on the amp and subs. Model number of the amp specificsly

 

Sorry about that. here ya go,

Alpine MRP-M500
500W RMS x1
2Ohm

Heres a link
Alpine MRP-M500 Class D Monoblock Amplifier (MRPM500)

and my subs

Kicker CompCVR 10:
800watts peak power/ 400RMS
CVR104 4ohm DVC Woofer
ITEM: 07cvr104

Link: Kicker 07CVR104 (07CVR10-4) 10" Dual 4 ohm CompVR Subwoofers

and heres the deck im running then off, if this matters at all:
Kenwood Excelon KDC-X496 CD receiver at Crutchfield.com

 

So if my amp isnt pushing enough to my subs, should i look into buying another higher rated amp, and ditch the aline i have now, or should i just buy another alpine 500 and power each sub with 1 amp?

thanks for the helpfull input guys^^^

 

I agree with the ported box scenario. They will need 1.5 cubic feet of air ported.

Option 1: (if you have 4 ohm DVC's) Replace the box with a ported box, replace the amp with something that is 1 ohm stable and can push 750 watts at 1 ohm, and wire your subs at the 1 ohm load.

Option 2: (if you have 2 ohm DVC's) Replace the box with a ported box, replace the amp with one that will push 750 watts @ 2 ohms, and wire your subs to a 2 ohm load.

Option 3: Keep the box you have and follow the remaining steps in the above options to maximize what you already have.

 

This is the specs on the Alpine MRP M500:
V-Power Series Class D Monoblock Car Amplifier
RMS Power Rating:
4 ohms: 300 watts x 1 chan.
2 ohms: 500 watts x 1 chan.
Max power output: 1000 watts x 1 chan. approx.
Pulse width modulated (PWM) MOSFET Power supply
Blue LED power indicators
Tuned Bass EQ (0-12 dB bass boost at 50 Hz)
STAR Board circuitry (minimizes internal noise and prevents ground interference)
Continuously adjustable gain control
Speaker level inputs and flush mount controls make installation a breeze
Dual sided glass epoxy PC Board
Thermal management control
Heat sinks along with the thermal processor monitor the amplifiers temperature
Gold-plated RCA level inputs
Gold-plated screw terminals
Adjustable low-pass filter (50-200Hz, 24 dB/octave)
Subsonic Filter (24 dB at 15 Hz)
CEA-2006 compliant amplifier
Frequency response: 20-200 Hz

 

if your running a 1 ohm load you will burn that amp up in no time. 1 ohm is alot more stress on the amp than a 2 ohm. there is too much current going through it for what its rated at. If the subs are 500 rms, and the amp is 500rms it should be fine. I never put more than 80% power to the speakers, but thats a personal preference. when you overload the subs, they will hit harder, but they wont last as long.

People will say they have a 1200W amp pushing their 400W speakers and they sound great, but for how long is the question. I would recomend getting differnt subs if you dont like the way they hit. dont forget there is also a break in period for subs, so dont blow them if you do return them and get something different. i got the kicker Cs (i think thats what they were) and didnt like the way they sounded, so i took them back and got the comp VRs. this was 5 years ago so i dont know what they call them anymore. My point is a good shop will stand by their product and if your not happy they should swap them for you.

 

With a 4 ohm DVC you can run a 4 ohm load (series) or a 1 ohm load (parallel). You need an amp to push 750 watts at either 1 ohm or 4 ohm. Your current amp is only pushing 300 watts at 4 ohms (series) and is not stable (will burn up) if you wire your subs to a 1 ohm load. You need a better amp to optimize the efficiency of those subs. 750 watts at 1 ohm (parallel) or 4 ohm (series).

 

^^This guy knows whats up..

I have the same issue - need a bigger AMP for me

 

The subs are wrong for that amp. get an amp thats one ohm stable or atleast one that produces its max power at 4 ohm like the jl amps.

 

slwilson6, thanks for the responses and awesome info. It got me a little lost because im not radio smart at all, but i think i know what your saying.

and TECH, is there a reasonable amp that you suggest me to look into? brand, etc?


Im just confused because my buddy has the same set up with 2 lower rated subs and his POUNDS. Im just an audio newbie so not everything makes sence to me. thanks guys

 

It's due to your buddies speakers pulling the wattage they are designed for. It's like putting door speakers directly to aftermarket radio. The head unit will push them, but sound like crap, however if u add an amp, they will rock


Sent from Goree's Autoguide iPhone app

 

You've got 2 hungry kicker subs that what 400w each for total of 800w to power them properly. You have an amp that is only putting out 300w. That means you need 500 more watts to properly feed those subs. Your buddies systems hit harder because the subs were designed to run off far less wattage. Although the box can highly effect output as well.

IE you are feeding a minnow to a shark, it wants more power.

 

not necessarily because i had a Kenwood Excelon KAC-X10D powering two 12 inch Kicker CompVR's and they pounded. the Kicker's were 400 Watt RMS 800 Watt max. the Kenwood Excelon Amp...

Highlights:

mono subwoofer amplifier
300 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms (600 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms)
stable to 1-ohm loads
CEA-2006 compliant
Dual Sigma Drive eliminates acoustic resonances
variable low-pass filter (40-200 Hz, -24 dB/octave)
switchable infrasonic filter (15/25 Hz, -24 dB/octave)
optional remote bass boost
Class-D amplifier design
frequency response: 5-200 Hz
preamp inputs and outputs
fuse rating: 40A x 1
8-gauge power and ground leads recommended — wiring and hardware not included with amplifier
12-1/2"W x 2-9/16"H x 11-11/16"D
warranty: 2 years
Our 60-day money-back guarantee

the subs hit correctly and this amp isnt sendin 800 watts rms.

 

So i talked to my buddy and he says that he wired the subs to 4 ohm. So after doing some reading and getting comments from you all, i put the radio all at 0 (even) on the sub bass, etc and then did the 3/4 volume and played with the gain, sub and etc untill it almost sounded distorded then tunes it a little lower then that, then got on the deckand fine tuned it. Its sounding alot better, but i do still think i will upgrade to a higher rated wattage amp (hifonics, JL, etc) so i can push the subs to what they can handle.

 

It is just the nature of a 10" woofer, I have tried a couple different setups and none impress me. Thinking about trying a 12" set up, heard DD 8's in a crew cab that hit, but not impressive.

I want the windshield wipers to dance.

 

I did not mean to go all audio geek on you. Here are some amps that I would suggest that will push the hell out of those subs:

Rockford Fosgate: 2 models R750-1D ($250) and P700-1BD ($380)
Precision Power: PPI S850.1D ($180)
Pyle: PLA1800 ($100)
RE Audio: DTS-1000.1 ($180)

These are just some that I found and by no means an all inclusive list. They are all on Sonic Electronix for the prices that I listed. I am a firm beleiver in the RE products and would encourage you to get it. It will give you the 800 watts RMS @ 1 ohm. Have your buddy wire the subs to 1 ohm and drop that amp in and you will be much happier. Let me know if I can help any further.

 

Think of it like your battery being low in your truck. If you turn the key on you can play radio, turn lights on, roll up window, but if you try to crank it, it goes dead. Same applies here.

 

Does anyone know what subs hit harder out of 2 kicker rt 10 4ohm, or 2 kicker cvt 10 4 ohm or skar vd10s d4 ?

 

i have zero experience with kicker because back in teh 90s, when i did systems, kicker wasn't a brand you used for deep window shaking bass but, here is what google says on the question you have..

Kicker CompRT
The Kicker CompRT is Kicker's best performing, thin-profile subwoofer and one of our favorites. The shallow mounting depth of the Kicker CompRT is perfect for installations in tight spaces or installs that need to work within small volume enclosures. Many thin, or low-profile, woofers on the market sound like shallow mount subwoofers. The CompRT is one of the few exceptions. These subwoofers offer full-size bass in a low-profile, compact package.

Kicker CompVT
The Kicker CompVT subwoofer is the older, legacy, low-profile subwoofer from Kicker. The CompVT subwoofers are the same woofers that come with Kicker's VSS subwoofer packages for new vehicles. We feel that the CompRT is a much better low-profile subwoofer. It is newer, hits harder, can handle more power, and it just sounds better.

and Crutchfield says the rt can be run as a 1 ohm sub so there is that little bit of difference, too.

 

Same, we always used Fosgate around here. Looks like the CompRT is the obvious choice between those two.

 

Yup, fosgate here too