Just R&R-ed the front differential on my Titan this weekend, and at least from my reading and searches there isn't a lot of info on any Titan forum in reference to this.
#1- If you've been asking yourself "can I really do this", the answer is probably yes. Many probably already know/believe this, but I just wanted to re-assure those who may be doubting themselves. If you do your own brakes pads, coolant flushes, and stuff of that level, then this should be no problem at all.
#2- You don't need much, but you will need:
#3- Assuming you get the fasteners lubed-up with the penetrating oil in advance, there's really not much to the job:
#4- Like I mentioned earlier, if you like OEM torque specs, here they are (thanks to DodgeDerek for this info):
Sorry, I didn't take any pics because I just wanted to 'get 'er done', but suffice to say it's so simple that me taking pictures of this and making a full DIY would be like doing the same for a tire rotation. :teethmast
#1- If you've been asking yourself "can I really do this", the answer is probably yes. Many probably already know/believe this, but I just wanted to re-assure those who may be doubting themselves. If you do your own brakes pads, coolant flushes, and stuff of that level, then this should be no problem at all.
#2- You don't need much, but you will need:
- Buddy with an extra set of hands
- Can of penetrating oil
- Impact wrench with a swivel attachment
- Metric short and long sockets up to 19 mm
- Rubber deadblow hammer
- Torque wrench with an upper limit that can handle at least 135 ft/lbs (only really needed if you like to get your torque values back to the OEM spec)
- About 1.5-2 hours of free time, maybe less
- You DON'T need any 75w90 diff fluid- it comes filled from the factory
#3- Assuming you get the fasteners lubed-up with the penetrating oil in advance, there's really not much to the job:
- Unbolt/remove the underbody skid plate below the front diff housing.
- Unbolt the front driveshaft (the one coming from the transfer case) from it's diff flange. You can leave it to hang from the end still attached to the transfer case.
- Unbolt the left and right driveshafts from their diff flanges. You can also leave these to hang.
- Unbolt/remove the crossmember towards the rear of the front diff housing. Don't worry, this is a small, lightweight, stamped sheet metal part that is bearing no stress while you do the job.
- Unbolt the single rear, rubber-isolated housing mount from the truck frame.
- Place your floor jack under the pumpkin portion of the front diff housing, and elevate the jack pad to support.
- Unbolt the two front, rubber-isolated housing mounts from the truck frame.
- Carefully and slowly lower the unit.
- To re-install, simply reverse the above. There really are no tricks or nuances, it's just that simple. Excluding simple stuff like the skid plate and driveshaft flanges, there's only a total of 7 bolts (3 for the unit, 4 for the crossmember) keeping your diff from dropping straight onto the ground without obstruction.
#4- Like I mentioned earlier, if you like OEM torque specs, here they are (thanks to DodgeDerek for this info):
- All 3 rubber-isolated frame mounts- 135 ft/lbs
- L & R driveshaft flanges- 54 ft/lbs
- Front driveshaft flange- 44 ft/lbs
- Crossmember- 96 ft/lbs
- If you don't have a torque wrench, and just want to approximate, then remember that Torque = Force x Length of Lever Arm (in feet, if you're measuring ft/lbs), which can be converted to Force = Torque / Length of Lever Arm. What that means, for example, is that for the 135 ft/lbs spec used on the frame mounts, your actual hand needs to exert 135 lbs of force with a 1 foot wrench, 67.5 lbs of force with a 2 foot wrench, or 270 lbs of force with a 6" wrench, etc.
Sorry, I didn't take any pics because I just wanted to 'get 'er done', but suffice to say it's so simple that me taking pictures of this and making a full DIY would be like doing the same for a tire rotation. :teethmast