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New theory on engine break-in?

4.2K views 16 replies 16 participants last post by  sndmn2  
#1 ·
Coming from a life of owning who knows how many motorcycles, i recently read (i will try to refind the article and post a link) that the new thinking in engine break in is not to baby it the first 500-1000 miles but basiclly to rev the sh*t out of it!!!! DON"t baby it. The basic premis (I think if i rmember right) was something to do with the high temps than help better seal the rings and pistons and such and in return give better engine life and such.

Well I was wondering. if this new thinking might also apply to car/truck engines?

Like i said. i will try to find the article to better describe the theory behind this so all you techy's and such can offer various opinions (feel free to agree or disagree here)
 
#3 ·
well i think i agree with this because i broke my truck per manual and my buddy broke his in per the lead foot method and i know his truck is faster. hard to believe but i think its true. i could be wrong :teethmast by the way the trucks are the exactly the same
 
#4 ·
I am very sceptical about this site. He gives no facts. There is no data on engine longevity or oil analysis to determine engine wear. All his testing was done on race bikes who's engines get rebuilt quite often. And last but not least he has no sponsership giving credit to his theories.
 
#5 · (Edited)
Pugsly said:
Coming from a life of owning who knows how many motorcycles, i recently read (i will try to refind the article and post a link) that the new thinking in engine break in is not to baby it the first 500-1000 miles but basiclly to rev the sh*t out of it!!!! DON"t baby it. The basic premis (I think if i rmember right) was something to do with the high temps than help better seal the rings and pistons and such and in return give better engine life and such.

Well I was wondering. if this new thinking might also apply to car/truck engines?

Like i said. i will try to find the article to better describe the theory behind this so all you techy's and such can offer various opinions (feel free to agree or disagree here)


From day one I've driven this thing like I stole it, as not to say that's the right thing to do.
I've allways heard something of the sort of which you refer to but nothing difinitive in that regard. Just opinions from buddies that were into racing.
My Titan after some peliminary testing seems ( yeah yeah I know, the G-Tech contreversy, http://www.titantalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16451 notice I said SEEMS) to perform "better than average."
"I'll know for sure once I get it to the strip and dyno for the "real" proof. I'm judging right from the tools and experience at hand such as : roasting the tires not even trying(pisses me off, I CAN'T TAKE OFF FAST W/ OUT 4WD ENGAGED, I CAN'T WAIT UNTIL SOMEONE COMES OUT W/ A REAL LSD FOR THE TITAN), testing w/ various means, from a G/Tech to stopwatch, and racing experiences...
This thing will run it's azz off for what it is in my opinion having owned and driven all types of vehicles.

I guess my point is up to now the performane of my Titan only seems to be getting better and hasn't suffered any detrimental effects running hard as the engine get's more miles even after I've driven it like a sports car from day one...

...just my 2 cents...Peace
 
#6 ·
I've always broken them in the same way I intend to drive them, I don't baby them but neither do I drive the crap out of them, I probably do drive them a little harder than most though.
One thing that I will do, and that is to not drive at a constant speed for an extended time.
 
#7 ·
I have broken all of my vehicles in with the lead foot method and have never had any problems. I have always been told to break it in the way I'm going to always drive it.
 
#8 ·
my breakin was a 400 mile trip from the dealership at 50 to 80 mph shifting back and forth 4th - OD yes that included shifting to 4th at 80 mph and now I drive it the same each day heavy throttle most of the time ( the gas companies luv me ) . As for other vehicles I bought an 03 accord V6 6spd the dealer told me to drive it like I would the last day so I left the lot with the tires smokin and the tach on the redline ( not a proble with the car yet 15000 miles later ) GOTTA luv Japenese motors
 
#9 ·
This was posted before a while back with everyone chiming in on their break in preferences. The hard break-in produces faster engines quicker because as they are wearing in, more metal is removed from the surfaces for more clearance, reducing the friction so that the engine does make more power. However, that wear will have long term effects that will show up a few years down the road when the normal wear piled on top of the excessive wear from a hard break-in will clearance things too much and the rings don't seat as well, etc.

Indeed, for a race motor, once you get 3-4 heat cycles into it to relieve the stresses in the metals, run the crap out of it. Guaranteed results. Despite the fact that I run NOS now (and once a month, if that) I broke mine in slow to keep it tight so that it will last a while longer.

I'm sure a search will turn up the thread. People's opinions vary as much as the oil threads that start.
 
#10 ·
Pugsly said:
Coming from a life of owning who knows how many motorcycles, i recently read (i will try to refind the article and post a link) that the new thinking in engine break in is not to baby it the first 500-1000 miles but basiclly to rev the sh*t out of it!!!! DON"t baby it. The basic premis (I think if i rmember right) was something to do with the high temps than help better seal the rings and pistons and such and in return give better engine life and such.

Well I was wondering. if this new thinking might also apply to car/truck engines?

Like i said. i will try to find the article to better describe the theory behind this so all you techy's and such can offer various opinions (feel free to agree or disagree here)
I agree 100% with you. I've always broke my vehicles/toys in hard and they always perform far better. I have a seadoo with the 580 rotex motor and the thing is 10 years old now, purrs like a kitten and is faster than most 700's! I think it should be broke in how you intend to use it.
 
#11 ·
I have always broken-in everything I bought hard. Being sure that you allow the rings to cut in both directions (meaning, if you accelerate hard, you need to put the pressure on the cylinders deccelerating too). To do this in the titan, the first 500 miles I have been downshifting manually to keep the R's up above 3 grand using the engine to brake and provide the pressure needed. Every bike I take to the race track, snowmobiles, 4 wheelers, vehicles...go through the same regiment. I also change the oil and filter after the initial 400 miles to get all the manufacturing and cut metal out of the engine. In the big scheme of things, most vehicles come off the assembly line with very similar horsepower (within 5 HP either way). The big difference is, depending on how you break something in, you determine if you will eekk out that last 2-3 HP's and be in the upper percentile of that 5 HP or be in the lower with the guy who follows the book. Just my $.02.

ECHO: Break it in the way you intend to use it!!!

MaXX
 
#12 ·
the head said:
This was posted before a while back with everyone chiming in on their break in preferences. The hard break-in produces faster engines quicker because as they are wearing in, more metal is removed from the surfaces for more clearance, reducing the friction so that the engine does make more power. However, that wear will have long term effects that will show up a few years down the road when the normal wear piled on top of the excessive wear from a hard break-in will clearance things too much and the rings don't seat as well, etc.
QUOTE]

Right on. Though I don't have a titan, first thing I did with my truck was tow. I know for a fact mine is not as fast as my friends tundra, and he's stock. Now I'm at 95k.
 
#13 ·
the head said:
This was posted before a while back with everyone chiming in on their break in preferences. The hard break-in produces faster engines quicker because as they are wearing in, more metal is removed from the surfaces for more clearance, reducing the friction so that the engine does make more power. However, that wear will have long term effects that will show up a few years down the road when the normal wear piled on top of the excessive wear from a hard break-in will clearance things too much and the rings don't seat as well, etc.

Indeed, for a race motor, once you get 3-4 heat cycles into it to relieve the stresses in the metals, run the crap out of it. Guaranteed results. Despite the fact that I run NOS now (and once a month, if that) I broke mine in slow to keep it tight so that it will last a while longer.

I'm sure a search will turn up the thread. People's opinions vary as much as the oil threads that start.
Completely agree. I believe people who make the products know best about their products (unless proven otherwise), so I follow the instructions. All cars I have been driving, the harder you drive, the better they get so I have no problem believing that it performs better with hard break-in, but again, it's the long term effects.
 
#14 ·
Pugsly said:
I have broken in every single new sportbike that way, and I have broken in every single new car that way. They usually dyno higher than the average bear.

BUT.

Think about this. If you dyno higher, things have worn down just a little more than the average car. Think about where you will be at 100k or 200k miles, probably with less power? maybe with less compression with the rings that were worn down faster?

I don't keep my cars/bikes for more than say 2 years. So I'm not worried about longevity. Now to go back in time, and find those cars, that would be fun to check out!
 
#15 ·
syntrix said:
Think about this. If you dyno higher, things have worn down just a little more than the average car. Think about where you will be at 100k or 200k miles, probably with less power? maybe with less compression with the rings that were worn down faster?
I second that!
 
#16 · (Edited)
I broke mine in the same way just like i stole from the dealership. my body has 03 chevy, chip kn intake magnaflow i have 04 TITAN magnaflow mod air box the only time he beats me is when i hit 112 and he can keep going (when are they going to get something to take that off)love the truck just dont like little problems but you got to deal with that on any new truck i still love the truck :cheers:
 
#17 ·
ATV"S, dirtbikes, snowmobles, Yeh, run the snot out of those puppies . After all thats why we buy them. New piston and rings in a 2 smoke 250, $120.00 every year or so depending on how hard you push it. Takes a couple of hours on a Sunday. Little longer if its one of the newer four strokes. Re- bore and nickesil cylinder. $250. To rebuild your Titan motor. ? I"ll pass on the what little performance gains there might be in the hopes my engine is still running strong at 200.000 miles.