drive in reverse.

 

^^^ That's what I usually try first. If that doesn't work then I go through the process to put it back into 4lo and locking the differential. The reverse the process. I've had the diff lock light come on at times when there is no way that it's locked.

 

Thanks. It did not work though. I also tried going back through the motions but that did not work either

 

Are you sure it's still engaged?

 

You can unplug the locker at the differential...assuming that is what you are talking about.
If it is locked, you will certainly know it if you try to turn on pavement.

 

you`ll have to climb under there and check it out.
put the truck up on stands and spin the rear.

 

Yes. When i turn it skips.

 

Your truck may be different than mine then. I have never heard of this.
Mine always turns off when I disengage it. I may have to drive forward or back just a little bit, but it always releases.

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If there is still power (12 volts) going to the actuator (electromagnet), it won't disengage. Unplug the power from the differential. If that solves your problem, then you have voltage at the connector when you shouldn't. Not sure what controls that (BCM maybe?)
If you unplug the power and it is still locked, then you have an issue with the locking mechanism inside of the differential. Also, if you remove the indicator switch from the differential, you cannot replace it without taking the carrier out of the housing. Don't remove this switch.
If the mechanism is just stuck for some reason, you can probably move the actuating plate away from the differential (remove rear cover to do this). Draining is required :-(

I removed the indicator switch from the differential what is all required to install it correctly. Ever since I took it out it seems like my e locker stays engaged

 

If there is still power (12 volts) going to the actuator (electromagnet), it won't disengage. Unplug the power from the differential. If that solves your problem, then you have voltage at the connector when you shouldn't. Not sure what controls that (BCM maybe?)
If you unplug the power and it is still locked, then you have an issue with the locking mechanism inside of the differential. Also, if you remove the indicator switch from the differential, you cannot replace it without taking the carrier out of the housing. Don't remove this switch.
If the mechanism is just stuck for some reason, you can probably move the actuating plate away from the differential (remove rear cover to do this). Draining is required :-(

 

Thank you for all the help. Turns out that the rear diff lock turns its self off with speed. It is designed to shut off once the truck reaches 15-20 miles per hour. I learned about this from the service department manager at the dealership.

 

Your truck may be different than mine then. I have never heard of this.
Mine always turns off when I disengage it. I may have to drive forward or back just a little bit, but it always releases.

 

I hope your problem is truly solved.

In my experience, the electronic locking rear differential can be a bit flaky. I was towing a 6k trailer at highway speeds when my differential lock light came on. It was flickering, then came on solid. I pulled off the freeway and had to pull a u-turn under the overpass. If it was really locked I kind of doubt that my axle would have survived. There was so much weight on the rear that the tires wouldn't have had much change to slip to release the binding on the axle. It had been at least 2,000 miles since I had used the rear differential locker.

That said, I'll have another electronic locking rear differential in my next truck.

 

I also think if the electronics fail, it defaults to "open."