Info on the Truck?
Year? Big tow that kind of thing.
If 05 or older did you get the TSB done?

 

2005 Crew Cab, Off Road, Tow Package...

What's TSB?

 

does it blow with every trailer you hook up to?

blowing fuses means something is wrong and more often than not is the towed vehicle having the problem.

The TSB was for not having running lights at all on the 7 pin connector or something to that effect.

 

It just started giving me problem this past weekend...I haven't gone out fishing since...I been just towing my boat. My uncle has a trailer, I'll try to hook up with that trailer, go for a drive and see if it the fuse blows...

 

Shane's right. You most likely have a problem with the boat trailer wiring. A lot of the time those supposedly "waterproof" taillights aren't and the socket gets full of rust - conductive rust - as the trailer sits. Salt water's especially good for this.

Fun story, since I used to do auto electric as part of my Journeyman skills: Had a customer that swore up and down at his tow vehicle because the boat trailer lights kept blowing fuses. (Sound familiar?) I troubleshot it and had it down to one of the trailer lights, but he was standing right there and swore to me that the trailer couldn't possibly be the problem. (The boat was worth about three times what the car was worth) So I went in and borrowed the big Starter-Cart (two golf cart batteries in series, so about 80 amps continuous available) and came out with it. "I'll make you a bet..." I put a five dollar bill on the top and said, "If this makes the light work for ten minutes, that's yours." Good enough... I hooked up the batteries to the trailer light connector. I noticed the lamp went on, and thought, Oh crap, there goes that five bucks... But suddenly, the lights flickered a bit, and then went out. Then... one of the taillight housings started to smoke...

 

Did a search and it seems like a lot of us are having problems with the 10 AMP towing fuse....

I had this problem from Day 1 with my '05. I regularly tow a well-maintained car hauler, that hasn't shown any problems with other tow vehicles. After a couple fruitless trips to the dealer, I finally put a 15 amp fuse in place of the stock 10 amp fuse. Normally, I wouldn't advocate such a change, but it TOTALLY solved the problem. I've been towing every other weekend for 2 years now with zero problems.

-Steve

 

If it doesn't blow when not towing then it's the trailer..Why would that circut be useded in a boat trailer? Is there a battery to be charged?
Why would that circut be used on a car hauler?
These are the clues...

 

My 10a tow fuse blew this weekend ton my pre trip inspection,I noticed that I did not have running lights on TT.Figured no big deal the sun was up,dont need the running lights.Come to find out this fuse also supplys 12V to the camper for battery charging and refrigerator power.Needless to say 4 hours later, my fridge was still hot.Now I am going to replace the fuse and see what happens before I begin extensive troubleshooting.:huh:

 

I went through 3 10A fuses on my '06, but didn't care because I was only towing in the day.

However, coming home from a race in NY, I had to fix it as I was going to be driving through the night... and blew my last one. At a rest area, I put in the spare 15A... it didn't blow, but the lights still didn't come on.

I was going around, tapping the lights, and I reached down to check one, and upon touching it, the wire was really, really hot. Pulled the connector from the truck. Pulled the light apart and found a small piece of wire that was exposed and touching the trailer. 'The Short'.

Got some electrical tape out of my tool box, wrapped it up, put the light back in, and viola. Lights.

So, if you can't see every piece of wire, break out a mulitmeter and do some poking around and testing.... in my case, it definitely wasn't the truck.

However, if there's a TSB, I'd still like to see it.

 

A little off topic but I figured you could use a laugh.

I have a 5x8 enclosed trailer, with marker lights on the fenders. I kept blowing fuses to. It only did it on my 5x8...I started at the plug and started changing and following wires back...2 hours later and a lot of cussing and fuses, some jerk unscrewed my fender markers lights and grounded them out. at first glance they looked ok but I noticed the other side had 2 wire nuts and this side only had one.:gunz:

 

I had this problem from Day 1 with my '05. I regularly tow a well-maintained car hauler, that hasn't shown any problems with other tow vehicles. After a couple fruitless trips to the dealer, I finally put a 15 amp fuse in place of the stock 10 amp fuse. Normally, I wouldn't advocate such a change, but it TOTALLY solved the problem. I've been towing every other weekend for 2 years now with zero problems.

-Steve

Oh, BTW.. Hi Steve. It's amazing how many autocrossers tow with Titans vs other trucks.

--kC

 

Update

Replaced the fuse, hooked everything up. The fuse did not blow. Cant fix what wont break. Maybe it was just a fluke.

 

Re: Towing fuse keeps blowing! Found the problem!

Found out what the problem was...

There was a light on the Shorelander trailer that was dead. Behind the swing tongue, on the driver/port side. I took off the light and one of the connecting was shorted. The male connector wasn't fully connected/inside the female connector, it was just barely touching and it caused the rubber that covers the wire to burn. There was about 3 quarters of the wire showing.

Cut off the wire where it was burnt and solder a new male connector, plugged it in and made sure the connection was tight and it works now.

No more blown fuses.

Thanks for all the info.

 

Ok,my blown fuse problem came back.It is the 10 amp tow fuse that powers the running lights,charges the battery and runs the refrigerator. I am not sure where to start looking,but I dont think 10 amp is enough to run all those things?ideas are welcomed.Thanks

 

I called my local Nissan dealer today and talked to the service manager.He told me to replace the 10 amp fuse with a 15 amp.I said whoa,what gauge wire runs that circuit?He said he didnt know,but thats what they usually do and they havent had any problems.Anybody have any idea what gauge the wire is?I dont want to burn the wire or my truck up!Thanks

 

Come on you guys must have an opinion. Should I trust the service guy and up the fuse from a 10 amp to a 15 amp?Nissan built it with a 10 amp for a reason,right?

 

I had the problem when I replaced my OEM tail lights with the LED tail lights. I did not want to give up the LED tail lights, so I wired a relay up with a switch (there was one blank switch panel in my dash) , ran a wire all the way back to the plug and spliced in where the original wiring for trailer running lights goes. I put a 10 amp fuse in line up by the battery and now have fully independent trailer running lights.

 

Wait... you're running a fridge with a 10A fuse off the regular harness?

Yeah, good luck with that.

Unplug the fridge. Then run the 10A. See if that fixes the issue. If it keeps blowing, I'm convinced there's still a short in the trailer.

--kC

 

The fridge actually runs off propane.It only uses the 12vdc for a control circuit board.

 

Wow! - Watch your trailer plug pins....

Went to Maine last weekend and lost my running lights, then lost my brake lights (just the Rt one worked) No flashers. It was a four hour trip at night in heavy traffic. This was scary. After trying to remedy the problem at 2 rest stops, I decided to ride the brake in the right lane for the remainder of the trip.... I had no other choice.

I got to Maine and noticed the wires joined to the pigtail (trailer end) coming from the 7 outlet trailer connector were fried. Both the 10 amp and 30 amp tow fuses under the hood were also blown. This was after 2 hours....

I finally figured it out..... INSPECT THE PINS ON the inside of your ROUND TRAILER ELECTRICAL PLUG (trailer end). This is where the trailer wires screw onto the connectors. The older versions allow the pins to wiggle around after lots of use (plugging - unplugging) and two + pins were touching and frying all of my trailer wires...... Went to my local parts store. The new(er) 7 pin connectors have a locking channel to keep the pins secure, and a divider between them to keep them from shorting eachother out.

Next time you service your trailer - I recommend that you take the plug apart and look at what you have. The plugs only cost 6 bucks, and can save you a bunch of trouble on a trip.

 

Thanks,I'll take a look.

 

Ok,my blown fuse problem came back.It is the 10 amp tow fuse that powers the running lights,charges the battery and runs the refrigerator. I am not sure where to start looking,but I dont think 10 amp is enough to run all those things?ideas are welcomed.Thanks

What is the letter or number of the fuse that is blowing? not the amp rating but the postion letter or number.

 

Learjet

Thank you for taking the time to help me.The fuses are not numbered on my 2006.Cant find any info in the owner's manual either. I have 2 fuses labeled trailer tow under my hood.One is a 30 amp f/l the other is a 10 amp regular fuse. When this fuse blows,I lose the trailer running lights and the 12 volts to my fridge.

 

Thanks to leerjet,I have been studying the wiring schematic.

Loufish you were correct it is fuse 32 that i am blowing.

Fuse 32 provides 12V@10amps to the N.O. contact on tow relay #1.Tow relay #1 is enegized by the tail lamp relay which is protected by fuse 36(which does not blow). When tow relay #1 is energized, 12V@10amps goes to pin 5 for tail lights.The 12V@30 amps to pin 5 trailer power comes from trailer tow #2 and is energized by the ignition switch.

They are 2 totally seperate circiuts.More troubleshooting to follow........

 

Re: Wow! - Watch your trailer plug pins....

I finally figured it out..... INSPECT THE PINS ON the inside of your ROUND TRAILER ELECTRICAL PLUG (trailer end). This is where the trailer wires screw onto the connectors. The older versions allow the pins to wiggle around after lots of use (plugging - unplugging) and two + pins were touching and frying all of my trailer wires...... Went to my local parts store. The new(er) 7 pin connectors have a locking channel to keep the pins secure, and a divider between them to keep them from shorting eachother out.

Next time you service your trailer - I recommend that you take the plug apart and look at what you have. The plugs only cost 6 bucks, and can save you a bunch of trouble on a trip.

What year is your Titan?