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When does the dreaded cylinder 7 problem appear?

19K views 71 replies 24 participants last post by  mazdaspeed  
#1 ·
My 2017 only has 36k miles but it’s out of warranty now. So far it’s been fine but there's a chance this one has the cylinder 7 issue that’s just waiting to appear. I’m trying to decide whether to start putting away $$$ for an engine replacement or maybe trading for something else while it still has such high trade value.

When does the issue usually show up? At what mileage could I reasonably assume that my engine isn’t one of the defective ones? Yes, I realize I’m probably being excessively paranoid. And doing the math against new truck prices makes me think I would pay more to trade than it would cost to have a new engine installed by a dealership at full retail pricing. So really I’m just thinking out loud here…
 
#2 ·
My 17 got rhe engine replaced at 29k miles. Low oil pressure iasue.


If you were to 70k, i would say tou are peobably ok but 36k.... i would still worry.

My new engine has 40k right now and i still listen for it. I really like my truck but if i had to replace the engine out of pocket for a factory caused issue, i would be done with that brand.

Or i would trade it for newer one which doesnt have the trouble
 
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#3 ·
2017 and still no issue pretty sure you are good.

my 2017 the problem appeared at 16,000 km, thats 10k miles… in 2019…

also a few users on the site reported running the engine a few years with the knock and never had an issue except the knock.

if it starts to knock just check your oil levels more often and check for metal particules in the oil when you change it. I mean unless it start to really drive bad thats pretty much it. Of course that is my opinion.
 
#4 ·
I think the smart and most economically sound thing to do is keep the truck and just continue to drive it, while still putting away money. If I don’t have to use it for a repair then I can use it to help pay for my next vehicle.

And if it gets a knock I’ll just keep driving it until it dies, since it doesn’t cost any more to replace a completely dead engine than one with just one bad cylinder.

How much does a new engine cost?
 
#6 ·
Where are you located in the US? My brother is a master tech here in GA and he has not had a single knocking Titan come through his door. He is certain it’s a colder weather issue. Sure we see some months in the 30s and the occasional drop into the Teens but it is a short burst.
 
#14 ·
I drive my truck until I have a problem, I can’t worry about the what if as they may never occur. My 2018 was awesome until I traded it with 67,000 and my 2020 is at that mileage now and still just fine. Forums create more problems than they solve.

Clint
 
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#15 ·
I bought mine with 72K miles and I noticed it soon after. Possibly it was there the whole time. If you're thinking ahead and cost is an issue I would consider sourcing a used engine from a non 17-19 Titan that would fit in your truck. You can generally source good low mileage engines from wrecking yards for a reasonable price. I recently sourced a 27K mile replacement Toyota Prius engine for $1700 dollars with a warranty that the dealer wanted around 6K for same used engine.
 
#16 ·
You cant get a pre 16 engine because the first gen engines are different. Just drive it
 
#19 ·
No no the NTB identify an issue with 2017-2019 that was cause wih a manufacturing defect (lastest quite a while). They fixed the manufacturing issue at the plant and now new engines are ok in regards to the chlinder 7 and 5 scoring.
its not impssible thwt post 2019 engine gets a similar issue but most likely it will just be a freak incident and not nissan rolling out defective engine Like they did.
 
#20 · (Edited)
@Elkins45 , as best I can tell from reading every knock thread on this site during my first year here, mileages vary widely.

For my part, I first noticed mine around 70,000 miles. It was most obvious when going through a bank or restaurant drive-through with the truck in gear, the AC off, and my foot on the brake. After finding a dealer with the wherewithal to listen, my short block replacement took place at 70,955 miles.

So far, no new issues. Every once in a while I do go through the Diary Queen drive-through and order a blizzard just to make myself take a listen.

I have thought about the idea of "okay, let's say this happens again - which route would I take: a full engine (long-block) replacement, or a new truck?" That's a tough one, as I mostly have this truck like I want it.

Back to your question, you can always just have it scoped to see how the cylinder is looking.
 
#23 ·
So in understanding engines, what I take from the forum is that the cylinder gets scored and so it may use a bit more oil as the piston/cylinder wear away over time. I have tried searching the forum to no luck because not many people have kept a bad block long enough to see how many miles they get before the real fun begins.
I wonder if this problem was present in older blocks but heavier oil masked the issue and then 0w-20 is allowing the oil to move off the wall fast enough to cause an issue.
 
#24 ·
There are several knowledgeable wrenches who are members of the forum. At least one of them went to a 0w30 oil and as best I recall, has never had an issue.

Unfortunately, it's been a year since I last read all those threads, and I just don't recall the specifics of who was doing what.

Paging @busemans @Clint @dubyam and @KenedyTXTitan . Do any of you recall who might be taking the approaches @Shin Ramen is asking about above?

On an aside note, basketwife and I just a quick, overnight road trip from home to Huntsville and back. Round trip was 332 miles. The trip included several forays into town with the son-in-law driving.

I refueled last evening when we got home and the mpg's (manual calculation) were 19.35 mpg. The trip computer showed 20.9, making for a 1.55 mpg optimism factor. Last evening's refueling brought the total to 24,049 miles on the new short-block since I got it back this time last year.
 
#25 ·
I can't imagine the long term affect of that scoring and knocking is going to be anything but a dead cylinder (zero compression) and a short block at least. I'd be on the horn with Nissan asking about a replacement. If they won't cover it, drive it til it gets really bad or breaks, then replace at your expense. Or trade out.
 
owns 2011 Nissan Titan Pro4X Crew Cab
#29 ·
But the Titan is already 5yr/100k. While I understand the lack of desire to replace a motor even at 101k, the issue should be almost always discovered before 5yr/100k elapses.
 
#33 ·
I dont imagine going to a 30w oil will cause loss of mpg. Maybe you will drop to tundra gas mileage, maybe not

I still have the 7 year 100k mile warrsnty so the dealer is still putting 0/20, or whatever they use.

South texas also and no issues on my new engine with 40k since the swap
 
#45 ·
Why specifically do colder climates have this issue?
No idea. Maybe the metal expansion and contraction is different enough in the very cold north that it causes and issue?

Where the engines are built is warm. Warm enough that the assembly area might not be climate controlled enough to make sure the tolerances are what is actually called for at whatever temp?

Working aviation, our temps for inspection and assembly call for climate contolled at 58-62 degrees and thebparts have to come in and sit for 24 hours before being measured for anything. They have to be thermally stabilized because we work with tools that read at .0001 (ten thousandths of an inch).

Maybe the cylinder and piston tolerances are built similarly but the climate control is not tight enough?
 
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