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New coilovers and arms in action!!!

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#2 ·
HEY! Your truck is dirty.. Is that allowed? :D

Looks like some dusty fun! Where were you, on the moon? All those jagged little rocks... Gotta be tough on tires, if you're not careful....
 
#4 ·
ooooo, nice! So how does the ride compare to stock with the SAWs and UCAs? Did you replace your back shocks too? I already have my order in with Greg on new SAWs w/ PRG UCAs and DR rears. I can't wait until they arrive!! I need details man, DETAILS!!:lol:
 
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Discussion starter · #5 ·
No its in Johnson Valley. The vid was before the pics.

I also have bilsteins in the rear but the are probably worn out. The rear end just cant hang with the front end now, it just bottoms out and hucks the truck.

I am just simply effin amazed at how much the truck changed for offroading capabilities. Replacement coilovers and a-arms at least double the travel and I only have 2.5 inches showing of thread on the coilover.
 
#6 ·
Do you just have the leveling kit, or do you have the 4" Performance package?
 
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#10 ·
TitanRider said:
No its in Johnson Valley. The vid was before the pics.

I also have bilsteins in the rear but the are probably worn out. The rear end just cant hang with the front end now, it just bottoms out and hucks the truck.

I am just simply effin amazed at how much the truck changed for offroading capabilities. Replacement coilovers and a-arms at least double the travel and I only have 2.5 inches showing of thread on the coilover.
Click to expand...
titrider, when we cruising out to the J-valley shack of yours again? had a blast out there!!! that's J-Valley in my sig when we had that SoCal offroad meet out there!!
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
hooligan said:
titrider, when we cruising out to the J-valley shack of yours again? had a blast out there!!! that's J-Valley in my sig when we had that SoCal offroad meet out there!!
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Man I wish I was a titrider. lol I'm down for whenever. I bought the goodies off of djalex. He and I want to plan another offroad trip. Probably sometime after the baja 1000.
 
#12 ·
I have some questions for you TitanRider, or anyone who has this setup. I just got my package in for PRG Greg containing my SAWs w/ PRG UCAs and the DR rear shocks w/ billet spacers. I need any helpful advice when it comes to installing this baby. Anything you guys found that would make the process quicker with less hassle. On the pages I got from Greg with the instructions on how to install the SAWs, I'm missing #'s 6 - 10 for some reason. I don't know how criticle those steps are, but I would like to know them just in case. I'm looking forward to getting the setup installed and I don't want anything to be wrong with the installation (#1. I'm anal #2. I paid damn good money for this setup so I want it to be done right). Thanks fellas and hopefully you can understand my concerns. T.I.A. :cheers:

Also, any pictures of this setup that any of you might have would help me out tremendously, for I am a visual learner.
 
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#13 ·
I was thinking you was going to show pictures of the parts you installed. Not the truck... lol
 
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#14 ·
Also, is there really any point to installing the billet blocks under the leafs if I'm just going to level Titan (via SAWs w/ PRG UCAs)? I believe the blocks are 1" (not sure cause they're at home and I'm at work right now). Will this keep the raked look? If so, then I don't want them on there. Or, is there an advantage to having these on there? Also, does anyone know the length of the U-bolt for the 4WD application? I just don't want to dissassemble this truck and find out I have the 2WD U-bolts. Sorry for so many questions, I just want to make sure everything goes smoothly and hassle free.:cheers:
 
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Discussion starter · #15 · (Edited)
The install is pretty straight forward. The tricky part is taking out the sway bar. Jack one wheel up and disconnect it. Remove the whole thing you don't need it. The only real advantage for installing is to get some space for the control arm bolts which would require taking off the plastic liner or removing the fender but not necessary. Once the sway bar is disconnected break the ball joint with a jack underneath the lower arm. Zip tie the spindle to the frame. Unbolt the stock coil. Bolt in the plate of the SAWs. Mount the top with the allen bolt, I believe the correct way for the coil is the body of the shock in the coil bucket. Bolt the bottom. And the upper arm is just 2 bolts.

The rear spacers are really only used for clearing bigger tires and to raise the rear. There is no offraoding advantage, more of a disadvantage.

Feel free to ask anything else.
 
#16 ·
I need any helpful advice when it comes to installing this baby.
Click to expand...
Here's a quick hint...

When installing the red upper shock "hats" to the top of the stock coil buckets, make sure the big stainless steel washer ring goes underneath the bucket(to act like one big washer) and those 3 bolts per side that attach the "hats" should be torqued. As you torque those bolts, they're flattening a dimple that's embossed into the bucket, and if you don't torque them you won't get the correct crush needed, and could have issues later.

When I installed mine and used a torque wrench, I kept tightening the bolts, as if they were stretching. But I kept snugging them up, and finally they held the torque.
I suspected the dimple was crushing, and when I spoke to Greg later he confirmed it...
 
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#17 ·
Awesome! Thanks for the advice fellas. One other thing if you don't mind; could one of you take a picture showing the connection of the new coils to the coil bucket and the "big stainless steel washer rings" I just want to make sure I don't screw something up. Thanks again fellas! Keep the helpful advice coming!!:cheers:

Also, Greg told me to adjust the new coils to 1-3/4" pre load? Does this mean adjust it to 1-3/4" ride height, put the tires on, then lower the truck to get them "broken in", then adjust them to 2.5"?
 
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#18 ·
Awesome! Thanks for the advice fellas. One other thing if you don't mind; could one of you take a picture showing the connection of the new coils to the coil bucket and the "big stainless steel washer rings" I just want to make sure I don't screw something up. Thanks again fellas! Keep the helpful advice coming!!

Also, Greg told me to adjust the new coils to 1-3/4" pre load? Does this mean adjust it to 1-3/4" ride height, put the tires on, then lower the truck to get them "broken in", then adjust them to 2.5"?
Click to expand...
You'll know what S.Steel washer/ring I'm talking when you see it!

The preload number is the distance the adjuster ring is from the bottom of the shock body where the threads start.
 

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#19 ·
loufish said:
You'll know what S.Steel washer/ring I'm talking when you see it!

The preload number is the distance the adjuster ring is from the bottom of the shock body where the threads start.
Click to expand...
I understand the preload adjustment. What I don't understand is do I adjust it to the 1-3/4", put the truck back down on the ground with the wheels on, the lift the truck back up, take off the wheels and adjust it to 2.5"? That's the only thing that's confusing me. Also, about the "hat" on the coilovers. The hat goes on top of the coilbucket? then the huge stainless steel spacer go beneath the coilbucket and I then tighten them down to get rid of that crush, correct?

This is why I need pictures please! If I see it mounted, it'll all be a piece of cake I'm sure. Thanks again for the advice!
 
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Juday
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