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Re: two violet (purple) wires

Bman said:
Well, no responses yet, although e2thez may have been trying to tell me to RTM with post #138 in this thread, which is always good advice. Believe me, I've studied Austin's directions and re-read this thread many times, and last night I finally started cutting wires. Unfortunately I couldn't get the mod to work. I tried wiring it up using the stock e-lock switch as Austin documents in post #47 (the green wire). Everything else was wired up as in his diagram in post #65 (at least that was my intent as obviously something went wrong). When I start the truck up there are no dash lights that remain on that would indicate some sort of fault. When I hit the e-lock switch I get the DIFF LOCK light blinking and then going solid, and a second or so later I get the ABS and SLIP lights going on. If I turn off the e-lock switch the DIFF LOCK light goes out, but the ABS and SLIP lights remain on. The only way to clear them is to shut the truck down and restart it. This happens in 2HI, 4HI and 4LO, so I think the diff is locking, but something's not right as I'm getting ABS and SLIP lights.

I did check continuity through pins 1 and 5, and 2 and 6 of the relay, doing that through my pigtails, so I think the relay is good, and I know I've got 12V going to pin 3 of the relay (blue wire) through my pigtails too. I've got some pictures at Google Picasa

picasaweb dot google dot com slash barryfrise slash TitanElockWiring

if anyone cares to look at which wires I chose. If I still can't get it to work I may have to try the other violet wire. Anything else anyone can think of? As far as the switch goes, I just wanted to try it with the stock switch first. I do have a second switch but don't have it wired up yet.
I am not sure why, but for some reason yours is different. It must be because you are using the stock switch. When I enact the switch I put in it does not blink the diff light, which is why I used a lighted switch, but you are able to get a diff lock light.
 
i had problems when i activated both switches... just dont do it, when you activate the switch you put in it shuts down the factory circuit basically, so when you flip the other switch it will set a light... (slip and ABS)
 
StuntDriver06 said:
i had problems when i activated both switches... just dont do it, when you activate the switch you put in it shuts down the factory circuit basically, so when you flip the other switch it will set a light... (slip and ABS)
The only switch I ever wired in was the factory e-lock switch as Austin talks about in post #47. I never installed a stand-alone switch so there was no way to have both of them on at the same time. My next step is to put the factory switch back to factory wiring, and use a stand-alone switch as Austin documents. I'll certainly remember not to turn both of them on at the same time, thanks.

The project's on hold at the moment and everything's wired back to stock. My truck just turned 3 years old and I asked my dealer to look at the ABLS system hoping for a warranty repair. I don't think it kicks in soon enough, if at all. I may have seen the SLIP light blink a time or two, but never during times when I'd expect to see it, like when I've been stuck in mud and one tire is spinning away while the other one isn't. I've been complaining about it for a year and a half (well before I cut any wires). This time they're telling me my truck doesn't even have ABLS! Idiots. At least they didn't claim there were any weird codes set due to my recent wire cutting activities, thank goodness! Anyone ever try 1-800NISSAN1 to make a complaint? I follow the voice prompt to try and talk to a human and it actually disconnects me! So frustrating. I'll probably try another dealer but I want someone to know about the lack of Titan knowledge at this dealership.
 
Austin said:
If you're in 2WD or 4HI with the diff not locked, flipping the oem diff lock switch will cause a blinking diff lock light like normal.

If you're in 2WD or 4HI with the diff locked (and a solid diff lock light), flipping the oem diff lock switch causes the diff lock light to blink. Your diff would still be locked - the diff lock control unit has no power over the diff lock solenoid, just the light.

If you're in 4LO with the diff locked (with the aftermarket switch and relay) with a solid diff lock light, flipping the oem switch does nothing. If you have the diff locked with the aftermarket switch and have the oem diff lock switch in the diff lock position, you can turn off the aftermarket switch and the diff will stay locked - only in 4LO obviously.

No malfunction lamps of any kind illuminate, so I don't believe any trouble codes would be stored.
StuntDriver06, I found the above quote in post #46. Austin's telling us what happens when both switches are on a the same time. He says it shouldn't be a problem, but you said you had problems? Clearly turning them both on at the same time is NOT something you would do on purpose. Either the green wire trick in post #47 just doesn't work (it DOES lock the rear but I get ABS and SLIP lights), or I've got the wrong violet wire (my truck has two for some reason). I'll be adding in a dedicated switch first, and if that doesn't work I'll try the other purple wire. And if that doesn't work I'll just have to live with an ABS and SLIP light that are on after I've locked my rear. Doesn't seem to be hurting anything (ABLS may not be working I guess, but as previously mentioned I don't think it's working right on my truck anyway), and the rear is definitely locking in 2HI, 4HI and 4LO, which is what I want.
 
there is 2 purple wires, austin mentions this somewhere and specifys which to use... i only use my own switch, not the factory one, but i did it once by accident and i got lights i think, restarting wouldnt make them go away, just took some time before the computer realized everything was ok i guess...
 
I finally bothered to take off the scuff panel and am seeing more wires than shown in Austin's... Has anyone done this mod in an '08 (would be pro4x i guess)?

3 solid royal blue wires - one 16 awg and two 18 awg
2 solid yellow wires - one 16 awg and one 18 awg
2 solid purple wires - both 16 awg
1 solid black - think it was 18 awg


There is also one maybe 14 awg or fatter striped blue and black, don't know if that's relevant. I don't want to hack up the wire harness trying to find the right wire, but also don't want to pay someone to figure it out for me. Any help? :upsidedow

Seranin said:
Has anyone done this mod with an '08 pro4x? I don't forsee any difficulties, but if anyone is aware of changes in the wiring or diff lock system with the '08, let me know!
 
Seranin said:
I finally bothered to take off the scuff panel and am seeing more wires than shown in Austin's... Has anyone done this mod in an '08 (would be pro4x i guess)?

3 solid royal blue wires - one 16 awg and two 18 awg
2 solid yellow wires - one 16 awg and one 18 awg
2 solid purple wires - both 16 awg
1 solid black - think it was 18 awg


There is also one maybe 14 awg or fatter striped blue and black, don't know if that's relevant. I don't want to hack up the wire harness trying to find the right wire, but also don't want to pay someone to figure it out for me. Any help? :upsidedow
I'm not sure what the difference is between an 04-07 Off-Road Titan vs the Pro4x, maybe just the name? If someone can confirm that the e-lock is the same then you've found the right wires I think.

Austin says to use the thicker blue wire, which is what I did. If you look at some of my more recent posts on the problems I'm having with this mod you'll see I posted some pics on Picasa, and I found wires similar to you. My truck's an 04 like Austin's, so why the difference nobody seems to know. Austin's long gone, and he's done more than enough anyway, so we'll just have to figure this out ourselves. I only found one yellow wire running in the loom to the back of the truck, but it goes into the back of a white connector, and I think two yellow wires emerge from the front of that connector. You'll see that in one of my pictures. Is that what you mean by two yellows? If so, use the one that's in the loom running to the rear of the truck. I also found two purple wires, as has at least one other poster in this thread. Another poster has also said Austin mentions it somewhere, but I can't find any reference to it. He certainly doesn't mention it in his "official" write-up on his web page, and as thorough as he is I believe that if there were two purple (violet) wires in his truck then he would have said something about it there. Anyway, I chose the purple wire that runs into the back of the lower white connector.

I mentioned I was having a problem, and it's documented in my previous posts, so you can read about it there. Basically I tried using the factory switch, which worked but lit some warning lights that I don't want to look at. I'll follow up when I get around to reinstalling the relay. I found that wiring it up with pigtails on the relay and using corresponding male and female connectors it's very easy to remove the relay and connect everything back to stock.
 
Discussion starter · #148 ·
Seranin said:
I finally bothered to take off the scuff panel and am seeing more wires than shown in Austin's... Has anyone done this mod in an '08 (would be pro4x i guess)?

3 solid royal blue wires - one 16 awg and two 18 awg
2 solid yellow wires - one 16 awg and one 18 awg
2 solid purple wires - both 16 awg
1 solid black - think it was 18 awg


There is also one maybe 14 awg or fatter striped blue and black, don't know if that's relevant. I don't want to hack up the wire harness trying to find the right wire, but also don't want to pay someone to figure it out for me. Any help? :upsidedow
Take a look on page 4 on my website. http://www.austinm.net/titan/elock4.html

You can see that I have the back seat removed, the carpeting flipped up and the Diff Lock Control Unit exposed with its harness connector removed. If you're having trouble determining which wires to use in the kick panel location, retreat to the actual Diff Lock Control Unit and do the wiring there. On my 04, all the wires from the Diff Lock Control Unit harness ran forward toward the firewall and were contained in the harness located under the kick panel. That may not be the case on later models, or even on different trims of 04. More wires may join the run, or they may have altered the cable routing altogether.

I would be willing to bet that the location of the Diff Lock Control Unit remains the same, and the safest (most likely) place to find the wires you're looking for is at the Diff Lock Control Unit.

They may also have changed wiring colors. Keep the spirit of the mod in mind and forget about the wire colors. Find the wires you're looking for by their signals and the components they connect to, not their color.

Assuming you're using an aftermarket switch and a DPDT relay as I did, grab your multimeter and find a +12VDC wire and a ground wire. Tap off those and supply power and ground to terminals 3 & 4 of the DPDT relay, and terminals 7 & 8 of the DPDT relay through your switch.

Now climb under your truck and disconnect the diff lock solenoid at the back pumpkin. Isolate the wire to the + diff lock solenoid terminal 4 and the - diff lock solenoid terminal 2 by a continuity test. If you need me to explain that, ask. Once you have the two wires to the diff lock solenoid identified, snip them and route them through terminals 1/5 & 2/6 of the DPDT relay.
 
Thanks for the help, Bman and Austin - next opporunity I have to play around I will follow the wires back farther and try to determine the right ones. As Austin mentioned earlier in this thread, it's important to have the wiring diagrams, so maybe I'll hunt down the proper section for my truck as well
 
i wanta use the oem switch how would i go about doing that? thanks in advance
 
bigkurt666 said:
i wanta use the oem switch how would i go about doing that? thanks in advance
Everything you need is here in this thread. Post #47 is where Austin specifically mentions how to wire in the stock switch. I've tried it and got it to lock the diff, but it also tripped ABS and SLIP errors so I backed it out. I'm getting ready to try again with a dedicated switch.
 
it's working with the seperate switch!

I finally got the chance to open the kick panel and install the relay with its own switch wired in, and it's working! I had previously tried to use the factory switch and found that it worked in that it engaged the e-lock, but it also lit a couple of dash lights that remained on even after the e-lock was dis-engaged. Restarting the truck would reset the lights but I didn't like that "fix". I've described what wires I used in some previous posts in this thread because I found some differences between my 04 LE vs Austin's 04 SE. Using a dedicated switch for the mod seems to have my truck working the same way as Austin's, so thanks Austin!
 
Man I have read all 11 pages of this mod and I am excited about it. I am buying a 2009 pro 4x and I did not know about the elocker only working in 4low that is stupid. the locker should work in 4hi and 4low. the 2009 Fx4 Ford does work in 4high and 4low. I cant belive that ford is making more since than the titan since the titan has done this for a few years you think they would get it right. I cant belive that ford just started putting locking diffs in and they started off better than the titan now... well cant wait to get my titan and start to mod her. I will be looking at the bunout mod as well. thanks guys this is some good reading.
 
WOO-HOOOOO!!! after putting this mod on the back burner for the past year, I finally found the time to cut, splice, and wire the relay and rocker panel up. After checking and double checking everything... I roasted some rubber and was greatly amazed at the new bite that my Titan has on takeoff... and I am very glad I have traction bars on too, because I imagine the amount of whiplash I felt inside the cab is probably a lot worse on the driveshaft and tranny mount underneath... now for some rain so I can go play in the mud in 2wd locked... and 4Hi locked... ...oh yeah... those contemplating this mod... just do it, you'll like it... if not, just keep the switch turned off...
 
WOO-HOOOOO!!! after putting this mod on the back burner for the past year, I finally found the time to cut, splice, and wire the relay and rocker panel up. After checking and double checking everything... I roasted some rubber and was greatly amazed at the new bite that my Titan has on takeoff... and I am very glad I have traction bars on too, because I imagine the amount of whiplash I felt inside the cab is probably a lot worse on the driveshaft and tranny mount underneath... now for some rain so I can go play in the mud in 2wd locked... and 4Hi locked... ...oh yeah... those contemplating this mod... just do it, you'll like it... if not, just keep the switch turned off...
Man I was putting this mod off due to the week spider gears in the 04 rearends...but I'm running an 08 E-Locked rear end now (have been for a year..lol) and I still havent done this mod... I need to get this done...If I had the effin parts in the garage I'd just take the time and do it. But I havent even made it to Radio Shack to get it...lol Somebody call me tomorrow and remind me to go to radioshack..lol
 
Austin, the pictures in your thread are not working on my computer at work( US Army computer) I'll try at home but I can't see the pictures that you have posted. I read in a previous post that your web site may not be working. Is it working now? Thanks for the mod. AWESOME!! :)
 
It looks like Austin is mia. Could someone that has done this mod PLEASE post some new pics because im not to good at this stuff and need some visual aid.
Thanks in advance
 
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