Gauges in overhead console

Workin'Titan said:

Thanks krh2, I will be monitoring the tranny temp very closely.

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Where did you mount your tranny sending unit? Also, how deep are your gauges? Was it a tight fit? Did the upper console panel fit back in nice and snug? I have a a-pillar gauge pod but I would like to add oil temp and amp gauge where you put your 2.
Thanks Kev

krh2 said:

Where did you mount your tranny sending unit? Also, how deep are your gauges? Was it a tight fit? Did the upper console panel fit back in nice and snug? I have a a-pillar gauge pod but I would like to add oil temp and amp gauge where you put your 2.
Thanks Kev

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Part of my problem is I installed the sening unit in the hose just below the radiator while I wait to order my PML pan. I definetly suggest installing at the tranny. I will be doing that next month.

The gauges are a little tight, but they fit pretty good. I installed the overhead console myself and I had to fab some brackets to attach the screws to in the overhead, so mine may have a little more room than other trucks. There are gauges that are a little smaller that would probably fit easier. Also, I am trying to get Lotek to make some gauge pods that go above the radio in trucks that do not have navigation. Do you have this bezel or navigation?

Workin'Titan said:

Part of my problem is I installed the sening unit in the hose just below the radiator while I wait to order my PML pan. I definetly suggest installing at the tranny. I will be doing that next month.

The gauges are a little tight, but they fit pretty good. I installed the overhead console myself and I had to fab some brackets to attach the screws to in the overhead, so mine may have a little more room than other trucks. There are gauges that are a little smaller that would probably fit easier. Also, I am trying to get Lotek to make some gauge pods that go above the radio in trucks that do not have navigation. Do you have this bezel or navigation?

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Thanks, I have that bezel and know of the gauge pod you are talking about. Would be cool if they made one. I mounted my sending unit in a pressure test port. Seems pretty acurate...

Workin'Titan said:

That is a really good idea. If you get the chance can you show me where the port is and how you installed the sending unit? Is the port threaded? If it is threaded is it american standard or metric?

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Thread on the sender is NPT, port is BPT or MPT I cant remember.. I kniew the sender was brass so it would strip the threads on it before the tranny port hole would. I put tephlon tape on it and gently theaded it and torqued to about 15 ft lbs. Went in easy, didnt bind, and no leaks. I would give you a link here to my total install but my forum is filtered/blocked here. Lemme try to find some pics.

Oh if I knew now what I didnt know then I would use one of these adapters:

Adapters and Bushings from eGauges.com

Here you go...

Gauge pod

<a href="http://www.gaugepods.com/nissan_t.html" target="_blank">http://www.gaugepods.com/nissan_t.html</a>

Here is the gauge pod after unpacking it.







Gauges used
I suggest using electrical vs. mechanical gauges as the mechanical gauges are more difficult to install. The gauges fit in the pod quite snug so it is not nessessary to use the mounting brackets. This also allows you to pull the gauges out for access if needed.

Differential

<a href="http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...mp;autoview=sku" target="_blank">http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...mp;autoview=sku</a>

Transmission

<a href="http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...mp;autoview=sku" target="_blank">http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...mp;autoview=sku</a>

Water

<a href="http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...mp;autoview=sku" target="_blank">http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...mp;autoview=sku</a>

Volts

<a href="http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...mp;autoview=sku" target="_blank">http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...mp;autoview=sku</a>

I originally planned on the three temperature gauges but I could not find an adapter with the correct thread pitch for the water temperature sender. You can buy an adapter that clamps in line on the radiator hose but I opted to just go with a voltage gauge instead. Here is a link to the adapter:

<a href="http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...0+400442+318084" target="_blank">http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...0+400442+318084</a>

Here is my aborted attempt at the water temperature install.

Remove this block draining plug.



Drain.



I tried to install the sender with this ¼ x 1/8 adapter… However, this adapter had a thread pitch that did not match the threads on the plug and I could only get is screwed in a turn or two before it stopped. So instead of ruining the threads on my block I opted for a volt meter instead.





In this installation you have to run 5 - 18 gauge wires for each gauge except for the volt gauge it only takes 4. The Gauge itself requires 3 wires: One Ignition Hot , One Ground, and One for the Sender. Then 2 more 18 gauge wires for the Gauge light bulb: One Ground and then One Hot for the light. The volt gauge only requires the lighting wires, a ground, and a switched 12v DC source.

I tapped into the right accessory plug on the Bezel for the gauge power as this is only powered when the ignition is in the on position.

For the gauge common ground and the gauge lighting ground I used the same accessory plug ground wire. I suppose I could have just found a good ground on the truck elsewhere but chose this route instead.

Common DC connection with 3 amp in line fuse.




To remove the a-pillar pry back the tabs covering the mounting screws on the “oh $hit “ handle. Remove screws and handle. The a-pillar simply pulls away from the frame. You can grab the top of it and gently pull it away from the frame there are 2 tabs that hold the pillar cover to the frame.

To gain access behind the bezel you have to remove screws. Pull the driver side lower panel toward you as well as the center lower panel and the lower passenger panel. These panels need to be pulled away from the bezel as they overlap the bezel basically holding it in place. This is to remove the bezel in a bench seat Titan I am not sure if a center console Titan is different. Next gently pull the bezel towards you. There are 4 tabs that hold the bezel to the dash. Do not pull the bezel very far away from the dash as there are wires and whatnot attached to it. Pull it away far enough to gain access to the positive and negative wires for the accessory plug.

Pics of the 5 screws.







Run these 2 wires under your dash and up through to the a-pillar. And attach the positive wire to the “I” post on the back of the gauge. The ground wire will be used as a common ground for the lights in each gauge.



Gauge lighting:

To power the lights on the gauges I ran a wire to the parking light above the headlight on the driver’s side and tapped into that. That provides power to the gauge lights when you turn on your running/headlights. It is a red/blue wire. That method of getting power sounds pretty hokey I know but it was the easiest thing I could figure out. This wire and other gauge wires were passed through the firewall where the hood release latch cable goes through. Simply attach the wires you want to put through to a piece of wire coat hanger and poke it through then pull them through from the engine compartment.



Each gauge now has AC power, a ground, and lighting power and ground. Time for the sending units. You must run a wire from the “S” post on the back of the gauge to the sender. You then must send a ground wire from the ground post on the back of the gauge to a good ground point near the sender. If you don’t have a good ground when you power up the gauge the indicator needle will peg out on max. Shut up Steve. :smt003 :smt020

Transmission gauge:

I chose to install the tranny gauge sender in a pressure test plug on the passenger side of the transmission. There will probably be some debate of the effectiveness of the location of this sender as some say there is not enough circulation of tranny fluid behind it. Well, it worked fine for me. When you remove this plug (14mm) you will loose a small amount of fluid from the tranny. Nothing to be worried about and because it was so little I didn’t bother to replace the lost fluid. I check my tranny fluid level and it was still fine. When installing the sender put some thread sealant on it and torque to 15 ft lbs. Next attach the ground wire from the gauge to a good ground on the transmission.

Removing pressure test plug on tranny.







As you can see when you remove the pressure test plug you will lose a small amount of tranny fluid. Not enough for me to be worried about. I checked the tranny dipstick and she is still full.



Tranny temp sending unit with thread sealer on it.



Torque to 15 ft lbs.





Here is the tranny gauge grounding point I used.



Differential gauge:

For this installation you will need a differential cover like this one:

<a href="http://mag-hytec.com/store/index.php?main_...031efbaf03241bd" target="_blank">http://mag-hytec.com/store/index.php?main_...031efbaf03241bd</a>

Or have your cover drilled and tapped 1/8”.

Start by installing the temp sending unit into your differential cover.







Use anti-seize on the threads of the sender.



Two wires go from the differential to the gauge. The sender wire and a good ground near the sender.





Route these wires along the frame and into the cab. I used the same access hole under the driver seat as I did for my AMP power steps.





Once these 2 wires are in the cab they need to be routed to the dash.





My overall thought of this install? I really didn’t need the volt meter or tranny temp. However it is a very cool mod and it is very distracting with these gauges… I catch myself watching them instead of the road. :smt003 The install prolly took 6 hours total time because of pics, my lack of knowledge, beer breaks, etc… The pod is very good quality but I need to paint over the mounting screws. Primer is an almost identical match.

Pod wiring:





Wired and ready for install.



The OEM A-Pillar pod attaches with two tabs however I noticed the top mounting screw was real close to a good mounting point so I drilled the hole out bigger and used a toggle bolt as well as the 2 mounting tabs to secure the pod to the pillar.. The gauge pod attaches to the OEM A-Pillar via 2 screws. I opted for a bolt/nylock nut on the bottom and a toggle bolt for the top for more stability…

Lower mounting bolt/screw




Toggle bolt.




Some pics of the the gauges...







Some vids..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VNbECElFvN8&feature=player_embedded

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Uz3zovKv2w&feature=player_embedded


Sorry, some of the forum lingo didnt translate too well.. You get the idea though..
Kev

nice find on the tranny pressure port plug. i did a quick look on mine earlier and missed it.

DeadRiver said:

i too plan to add some gauges in the near future.. i haven't fully thought it through though.

lately i've noticed that my oil pressure dips to the low side when idling at a stop light. i didn't recall that happening when i first bought the truck and others report that it's normal.

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Yeah, I like the gauges and they look pretty cool too.

Krh2, Thanks for the write up. I have not seen anything this detailed on TT yet. This will help present and future Titan owners for decades to come. Great Job!:redblob"

08pro4x2486 said:

Do you know of any that make a one gauge pod for the Titan? I dont have the air bags in the A pillar so I'm good. That truck is pretty crazy dude. I couldn't even tell it was a Titan at first.

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This guy make his own two gauge pod,
Molded dual guage pod to A-pillar - Nissan Armada Forum: Armada & Infiniti QX56 Forums