I just bought a 05 LE CC 4x4 in Florida and I live in New York. The truck has 108k on it and overall it appeared to be in very good shape. I paid $13200. It was purchased from a dealer, but apparently not a good one. I did my homework on them, but I guess the lack of any reviews might mean something. Anyway, They said the truck was checked and it was in good working order. My wife flew down and drove the truck back. I took it to Nissan for a couple of open recalls and they said that the manifolds were cracked($2300), there's a leak in the tranny lines($382), the rear pads need to be replaced($283), the differential pinion seal is leaking($280) and it needs an axle replaced on the driver's side rear($600), total is $3800. While I am handy, I don't have a lot of automotive repair experience. I figured I was better off putting on aftermarket headers since the first set cracked, why wouldn't the second ones. Any ideas or suggestions?
In need of some help and advice
Nolesfan
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I just bought a 05 LE CC 4x4 in Florida and I live in New York. The truck has 108k on it and overall it appeared to be in very good shape. I paid $13200. It was purchased from a dealer, but apparently not a good one. I did my homework on them, but I guess the lack of any reviews might mean something. Anyway, They said the truck was checked and it was in good working order. My wife flew down and drove the truck back. I took it to Nissan for a couple of open recalls and they said that the manifolds were cracked($2300), there's a leak in the tranny lines($382), the rear pads need to be replaced($283), the differential pinion seal is leaking($280) and it needs an axle replaced on the driver's side rear($600), total is $3800. While I am handy, I don't have a lot of automotive repair experience. I figured I was better off putting on aftermarket headers since the first set cracked, why wouldn't the second ones. Any ideas or suggestions?
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Hey man, you can save yourself a ton with that stuff...you're right, headers instead of new crap manifolds...
You can easily replace all the tranny lines for about $15, easily do the rear brake pads for around $50 yourself. Those are both no brainers.
The rear axle seal is a common problem as well and there are a bunch of threads on here about it, but I wouldn't have a dealership do any of the work. They'll just rape you for more garbage OEM parts.
Everything you've mentioned though are all common problems on these trucks.
You can easily replace all the tranny lines for about $15, easily do the rear brake pads for around $50 yourself. Those are both no brainers.
The rear axle seal is a common problem as well and there are a bunch of threads on here about it, but I wouldn't have a dealership do any of the work. They'll just rape you for more garbage OEM parts.
Everything you've mentioned though are all common problems on these trucks.
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I went awhile ago to see about having a stealership install trutrac for me and they said that usually when there is something wrong with the rear axle they advise that they replace the entire thing... I thought this was crazy but it was a friend at the stealership and they replace the whole thing because, "It is easier than pulling things apart..." I don't know if this helps but it bugged me that they rip people off...
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You need to get that truck out of the dealer and in to an independent repair shop of some kind if you are not comfortable doing the work yourself. The prices the dealer are quoting you are a total rip off. $280 for a pinion seal replacement? Thats a 30 minute job max if you have the right tools, and the seal is pretty cheap. I bet a local shop would replace that seal for under $75.
Headers: OEM headers are generally cast iron. Cast iron doesnt really hold great cooling characteristics. This being said the OEM manifolds (speaking on various motors) tend to crack after awhile. Not a problem if you plan on running SS headers. Stainless headers are not un-crackable. If they get to hot they do crack. But on an NA motor If they crack from normal driving then you have other issues on why the EGT's are so hot. Also If you wash the car even a drop of water on headers is enought to put a stress crack in or crack it. Cracks appear on headers when you cool them to quickly with water. You shold have no problem putting new headers on and not having them crack. Just follow the manual for torque specs. ( most people just tight them sequentially till the are tight and do a torque down turn with a ratchet and a pipe. Torque specs for headers arent as important as other bolts in the motor but If you are that woried about the headers and breakage then follow torque specs and torque down pattern to be sure.)
REMEMBER THIS IS A BROAD STATEMENT AND MAY OR MAY NOT BE FULLY RELIABLE WITH YOUR MOTOR. THIS IS AN INSIGHT REPLY.
REMEMBER THIS IS A BROAD STATEMENT AND MAY OR MAY NOT BE FULLY RELIABLE WITH YOUR MOTOR. THIS IS AN INSIGHT REPLY.
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The oem manifolds are stainless, but very crack prone. They improved them at some point and the new ones don't seem to crack, based on the posts here. It is impossible to get a torque wrench on the bolts unless you want to pull the engine. It is a PITA to install them because of lack of clearance, particularly on a 4x4, but $2300 is outrageous. I think the OEM manifolds are around $350 each. If you go with aftermarket headers, they are around $600 for long tubes, but then you need Uprev software $500 to correct the AFR, and some B-pipes with appropriate cats (Berk, I dunno the current price, there was a group buy), and you would have a substantial performance gain.
You probably don't have to replace the axle shaft, unless the surface is damaged (such as a groove worn by the seal) or the shaft is bent. They have a bulletin on replacing the entire shaft cuz the techs allegedly were not installing the bearing and seal correctly (which I doubt, I think it was for $$$). Most likely $30 for a Timken Set 10 bearing and around $22 for a Nissan seal + 1 hour labor would take care of it.
http://www.titantalk.com/forums/titan-faq-howto-area/123384-replacing-axle-seals-w-pics.html
+1 on getting an itemized written estimate (parts & labor) and shopping around.
Berk B-pipe thread ($375 + shipping for 4x4 B-pipes ?) http://www.titantalk.com/forums/fon...forums/fontana-nissan/126021-berk-tech-b-pipes-fontana-nissans-group-buy-4.html
You probably don't have to replace the axle shaft, unless the surface is damaged (such as a groove worn by the seal) or the shaft is bent. They have a bulletin on replacing the entire shaft cuz the techs allegedly were not installing the bearing and seal correctly (which I doubt, I think it was for $$$). Most likely $30 for a Timken Set 10 bearing and around $22 for a Nissan seal + 1 hour labor would take care of it.
http://www.titantalk.com/forums/titan-faq-howto-area/123384-replacing-axle-seals-w-pics.html
+1 on getting an itemized written estimate (parts & labor) and shopping around.
Berk B-pipe thread ($375 + shipping for 4x4 B-pipes ?) http://www.titantalk.com/forums/fon...forums/fontana-nissan/126021-berk-tech-b-pipes-fontana-nissans-group-buy-4.html
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PS: When installing headers or exhaust manifolds, it is convenient (and perhaps necessary) to disconnect the steering shaft on the driver's side. If the steering wheel is turned with the shaft disconnected, it will break the spiral electrical cable in the steering wheel, causing a further expensive repair. So you probably want to warn any non-dealer shop that you have do that work.
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The nasty ones are stainless.
Just wanted to say that these forums are great. I ended up getting some of the work done at my local garage. They did replace the axle seal and bearing, but didn't have to replace the axle. They also put on pads and rotors for less than the dealership wanted for pads. As it turns out the advice that the leak from the transmission lines was from faulty clamps was spot on. They fixed it for $4.50 worth of clamps. The front pinion was seepage and not a full on leak. We still have to do the manifolds, but it's not an emergency so were trying to find the most economical route. The Bear River Converters manifolds are $999, but they supposedly have rectified the issues. My shop says he figures it should take 2 hours per side as long as they don't snap off a bolt. Anyone use these and does that sound right for the amount of time it will take?
2 hours per side seems reasonable. I have a 350z and that was a 6 cyl. and even then you got alot of moving of crap.
Look in your engine bay. If you can see all the bolts to the headers and itlooks like enough room to unbolt and pull out then 2 hours is to much. BUT IF YOU CAN NOT SEE ALL YOUR MANIFOLD BOLTS AND DO NOT THINK THEY CAN COME OUT EASY THE THE 2 HOUR QUOTE IS REASONABLE PER SIDE.
I feel like Nissan is competing with Audi. They keep making everything in the bays bigger while making the actual engine bay smaller.
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Took me from dawn to dark from under the truck in the driveway. A lift would definitely help. A nissan tech that has done hundreds of them posted that he could do it in about 3 hours. The small heat shield bolts which thread into the manifolds are very prone to snapping off. The manifolds themselves are mounted by nuts which engage studs which thread into the block and are not typically a problem, as long as penetrating oil is applied prior to attempted removal.
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