Okay, looks like I've done what many others have...the sway bar is looks like it's inverted during the PRG install. I've attached some pics showing the sway bar. Any ideas on how to fix it? As much as I'd love spending all July 4th weekend working on it, I'd rather fix it tonight. :futwice:
PRG [Sway Bar] Help!!
dbo1
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Okay, looks like I've done what many others have...the sway bar is looks like it's inverted during the PRG install. I've attached some pics showing the sway bar. Any ideas on how to fix it? As much as I'd love spending all July 4th weekend working on it, I'd rather fix it tonight. :futwice:
Attachments
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17,244 Posts
Hmmm, I guess you guys can't all be "mechanically challenged." Perhaps some more detailed instructions for this product are in order?
Mike H. I read your thread on your PRG install:Mike H. said:
http://www.titantalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16233&page=1&pp=15
and I'm beginning to think the problem isn't the sway bar but maybe the same problem you had: getting the spindle into the upper control arm. I thought the sway bar was preventing that from happening but after reading through your thread, I'm thinking the sway's not the problem.
Maybe I should try your safety wire trick or make some sort of turnbuckle like you suggested.
Thanks for the feedback guys-
Okay, I'm not a mechanic but I know my way around an engine bay fairly well but this thing was a beeyatch! to install. Woudn't hurt to have some safety/bailing wire and a good pry bar and a cheater pipe/breaker bar if your're thinking of installing the kit yourself. Better be safe than sorry.
I've read a lot of posts where folks don't seem to have much of a problem, but I've also read plenty of posts that do. It's not Greg's product, it's the nature of the beast that's the problem. I've driven it around for about 7 miles or so to make sure everything's working ok and, so far, it is. The truck, by the way, looks great now.
Hats off to Greg at PRG for a great product.
I've read a lot of posts where folks don't seem to have much of a problem, but I've also read plenty of posts that do. It's not Greg's product, it's the nature of the beast that's the problem. I've driven it around for about 7 miles or so to make sure everything's working ok and, so far, it is. The truck, by the way, looks great now.
Hats off to Greg at PRG for a great product.
Some of us had a hell of a time getting the darn upper A-arm to come back down far enough to get the ball joint stud through its hole far enough to start the nut. The bushings in the A-arm joint were just super tight. The A-arm was just basically spring-loaded in the up position. Even with disconnecting the sway bar and jacking up the lower arm to the point of lifting the truck off the jackstand was not sufficient. The pry bar was to gain leverage in getting the upper A-arm back down. A second person would be extremely helpful. But not everybody has this problem. Click the link in my signature (in my post above since they only show up now once per thread) to read my story. It absolutely has NOTHING to do with Greg's product - it has to do with the tightness of each truck's A-arm bushings.
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1,898 Posts
If the sway is NOT dissconnected during the install, it is possible for the endlinks to rotate past center then stay in that position while reassembling the front end. If the sway bar endlinks are dissconnected before installing the spacers and then reconnected after the everything is put together, it is nearly impossible to re connect the swaybar like that. There is a very easy solution, use a floor jack and (although it seems primative) just lift up on the end of the sway bar and it will "pop" the bar into the correct position, it takes a bit of force, but it will go. And since the sway bar is just a big spring, it wont damage anything. Yes this has happened a few times, the very first time i took my own front end apart, fo instance. But please note the position of the sway bar before starting the installation and it will look just like that after the install.
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Ahhh, i guess i didnt look at them very well. They are in the right position, but it looks like its completely drooped out in those pics. Sorry for the confusion.
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6,387 Posts
Let me add this...When installing the lift, loosen the upper arm bushings, this will allow the arm to move, and should be re-tightened after the truck is at the new ride height.
If this isn't done, the bushings will be loaded when the truck is at it's new normal ride height, and will wear out the upper arm bushing much sooner.
If this isn't done, the bushings will be loaded when the truck is at it's new normal ride height, and will wear out the upper arm bushing much sooner.
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1,100 Posts
You guys had me worried because his pictures looked like mine!PrerunnerGreg said:
Anyway - what I do notice is that the end link on the pictures above seems to be "tucking" a little. I would be that on the other side the end link is "reaching." Mine was very pronounced (tucking & reaching) when I put the kit on, the next day, but when I went to take pictures and post them here, they were fine. I think the tucking/reaching of the end links had to do with the way I llifted the truck off the floor (first one side, then the other).
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6,387 Posts
I'm wounded...you doubt me.... :jester:
Let me add this...anytime you change the ride height, you should allow the bushings to move to their new position. The bushings are "captured" at the normal ride height, and the bushings give as the arms moves up & down from it's normal position.
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1,898 Posts
Clancy, that would relieve any stress on the bushings, but there really isnt much more stress that stock at ride height. The rubber bushings are very progressive, but if you take the arm at the angle it sits at stock ride height vs the angle at the raise height, there is only a few pounds of force until you get to the limits of travel. If it were a huge lift where there was 15 degrees difference from stock to raised, i would suggest it as needed, but 2"-2.5" dosent seem to hurt the bushings in the slightest. But feel free to loosen the nuts and then retighten them, it couldn' hurt.
Clancy said:
That's what I was thinking of doing but I wasn't sure if it was absolutely necessary. Clancy's logic is sound as is Greg's, I'm just wondering the size of the impact this will have, under normal driving conditions, if this isn't done.
Just the thought of jacking around with the front end again makes my stomach turn.
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