Updating an 07 SE 4x4 Titan

all torque · Jun 21, 2017

Bought an Optima Yellowtop yesterday and got my spacers and bearings from Kartek today. Looks like it I will be busy this weekend.

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ebnozn · Jun 22, 2017

Been following this thread with interest as I've got an '05 KC SE Big Tow I am continuing to upgrade/refresh - any reason you choose the Yellow Top vs. a Red Top other than the increased CCA? My truck sometimes "sits" for a week or so without being driven - would the Yellow Top be better for situations where it might be sitting an extended period of time? I'm also putting in an aftermarket double-din stereo and a modest 5-channel amp for a single sub - nothing too extreme, but def more current draw than stock.

Thanks!

LSturbointeg · Jun 23, 2017

nice job on the build!

danman · Jun 23, 2017

ebnozn said:
Been following this thread with interest as I've got an '05 KC SE Big Tow I am continuing to upgrade/refresh - any reason you choose the Yellow Top vs. a Red Top other than the increased CCA? My truck sometimes "sits" for a week or so without being driven - would the Yellow Top be better for situations where it might be sitting an extended period of time? I'm also putting in an aftermarket double-din stereo and a modest 5-channel amp for a single sub - nothing too extreme, but def more current draw than stock.

Thanks!

The optimas are good, and very popular. I'd also check out the odyssey batteries as well, if non-spillable and performace batteries are your thing. The odysseys are smaller and lighter and probably more expensive. I'll likely buy an odyssey when my battery starts to go. IMO, looks like one of the best on the market.

all torque · Jun 23, 2017

ebnozn said:
Been following this thread with interest as I've got an '05 KC SE Big Tow I am continuing to upgrade/refresh - any reason you choose the Yellow Top vs. a Red Top other than the increased CCA? My truck sometimes "sits" for a week or so without being driven - would the Yellow Top be better for situations where it might be sitting an extended period of time? I'm also putting in an aftermarket double-din stereo and a modest 5-channel amp for a single sub - nothing too extreme, but def more current draw than stock.

Thanks!

I went with a Yellowtop because I plan to put some kind of sound system (nothing too crazy) and it also helps with the extra draw from brakes, lights and accessories when towing a trailer. Not sure how much more it helps when the truck sits for a long time. It does have more cranking amps and reserve capacity than the red top though. Maybe someone smarter can chime in.

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all torque · Jun 23, 2017

LSturbointeg said:
nice job on the build!

Thanks. I have to admit that watching your build gave me some inspiration.

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all torque · Jun 27, 2017

Installed PRG tie rods, sway bar bushings and extend end links and fixed the bolt, bearing and spacers on my lower strut. I was unable to remove my driver's side tie rod. I used a lot PB Blaster and BFH but couldn't get the job done. So, since I had to get an alignment anyways I had Pep Boys give it a try. It wasn't easy but they were able to beat it off with a BFH. I guess they had better leverage since it was on the lift. No more squeaking or popping.

I habe the LCA bushings and spacers but I probably won't get to those until I get to Florida. I also have the bushings for the steering rack, I will give those a try sometime this week if I get time. Right now I have to figure out this tranny temp gauge issue.

So, I finally had time to install it and I stripped the sensor while trying to screw it in to the test port. Looks like the threads on the sensor and plug are not the same. Curious if anyone out there has installed the Autometer temp sensor in the test port without any issue? Maybe I'm just a retard (highly possible).

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all torque · Jun 27, 2017

honda250xtitan said:
Might need to cross shop brands to find the replacement bearing for that SAW shock. Good news is though once you get the size of that bearing you should be able to throw any bearing in there. probably needs a snap ring to hold it in too. PRG, Downsouth Motorsports, DirtKing, CJD, or other shops would know.

I just want to point out that you were right about the snap ring. The area was filthy and I didn't clean it well enough so I couldn't see snap ring. I almost broke my C-clamp and Vice trying to press that bearing out with the snap ring on. Hahaha

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LSturbointeg · Jun 29, 2017

i gotta get around to doing the bushings for the steering rack. was it easy to do?

all torque · Jun 29, 2017

LSturbointeg said:
i gotta get around to doing the bushings for the steering rack. was it easy to do?

I haven't gotten to those yet but I read that they are a pain to take off. I'm currently working on the parking brake. That spring is a pain in the @$$. I had to stop because it's a weekday and that spring makes a bunch noise when it breaks lose and shoots across the fender well. Don't want to piss off the neighbors.

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Rage232 · Jun 29, 2017

For the last few months, at low speeds, I'd hear this clicking clacking and ticking sound in the rear, sounded kind of like a rock was stuck in my tire, but I knew it wasn't. I just kept driving it as I was busy fixing all the other things... Anyway...

I just tore into my parking brake issue the last 2 nights. Tuesday night, I tore it apart and the e-brake shoes and 1 of the springs were just laying in there at the bottom inside the rotor.... I took it all apart, cleaned up all the rust with a wire wheel and put it all back together. Just getting both springs back in place took about 1.5 hours. I even bought a tool from autozone.. what a waste! no help whatso ever! Shoulda have just bought the needle nose vice-grips!! anyhow the shoes still moved apparently, the e-brake didn't work and worse, the 1 spring is just scraping against the speed sensor gear making horrible noises... Yesterday I got fed up with it... Removed the pads, removed the little spring. So I just have the 1 large spring holding and those annoying little clips holding everything together... It doesn't work, but hopefully everything stays put. I don't need an e-brake. There wasn't any e-brake on the passenger side at all when I bought it, figured someone else got fed up with it and removed it.

It's completely noise free now, soo much happier!!! If my mechanic complains during inspection then they can order all new stuff and slap it in there b/c I'm sooo over those springs!!! lol

all torque · Jun 29, 2017

Rage232 said:
For the last few months, at low speeds, I'd hear this clicking clacking and ticking sound in the rear, sounded kind of like a rock was stuck in my tire, but I knew it wasn't. I just kept driving it as I was busy fixing all the other things... Anyway...

I just tore into my parking brake issue the last 2 nights. Tuesday night, I tore it apart and the e-brake shoes and 1 of the springs were just laying in there at the bottom inside the rotor.... I took it all apart, cleaned up all the rust with a wire wheel and put it all back together. Just getting both springs back in place took about 1.5 hours. I even bought a tool from autozone.. what a waste! no help whatso ever! Shoulda have just bought the needle nose vice-grips!! anyhow the shoes still moved apparently, the e-brake didn't work and worse, the 1 spring is just scraping against the speed sensor gear making horrible noises... Yesterday I got fed up with it... Removed the pads, removed the little spring. So I just have the 1 large spring holding and those annoying little clips holding everything together... It doesn't work, but hopefully everything stays put. I don't need an e-brake. There wasn't any e-brake on the passenger side at all when I bought it, figured someone else got fed up with it and removed it.

It's completely noise free now, soo much happier!!! If my mechanic complains during inspection then they can order all new stuff and slap it in there b/c I'm sooo over those springs!!! lol

I use mine all the time even though it barely works. My driveway has an incline and I don't like to let it sit on the tranny. Now with this move, I figure there might be sometimes here in the near future when I am going to need to park up/down hill with the trailer on. So this will help and give some peace of mind.

The right side had some rust but nothing to worry about. The pads had some good wear, probably from the time that I drove for a couple of miles with it engaged until I smelled something burning. Hahaha I still have to get the spring installed on the right side and then I will tackle the left side.

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honda250xtitan · Jun 29, 2017

all torque said:
i just want to point out that you were right about the snap ring. The area was filthy and i didn't clean it well enough so i couldn't see snap ring. I almost broke my c-clamp and vice trying to press that bearing out with the snap ring on. Hahaha

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SuperTighty5.6 · Jun 29, 2017

If you ever move to Texas you need a e-brake. Part of the state inspection for your tags every year. But they dont care about exhaust. So you can run open header and still pass inspection as long as your e-brake holds at a 2,000 rpm load. My t makes like 300tq at 2k and didnt hold and I failed my inspection lol

all torque · Jun 30, 2017

SuperTighty5.6 said:
If you ever move to Texas you need a e-brake. Part of the state inspection for your tags every year. But they dont care about exhaust. So you can run open header and still pass inspection as long as your e-brake holds at a 2,000 rpm load. My t makes like 300tq at 2k and didnt hold and I failed my inspection lol

Good to know. I'm moving to Florida next month but we are planning to retire in Texas in a few years.

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all torque · Jun 30, 2017

Finished the parking brake last night. Wow! What a difference. So much more resistance on the pedal, I only go in about halfway now. The brakes weren't all that bad. The left side had plenty of rust but nothing that made me think that they were going to disintegrate. Even though, still very happy that I changed them out. I now have the peace of mind and a working parking brake.

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all torque · Jul 3, 2017

Just when I thought that the truck was like new again. Noticed my center bezel has several cracks. It is spider webbing in other areas so I'm sure those will turn in to cracks soon enough.[emoji53]

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LSturbointeg · Jul 4, 2017

lol those ebrake springs were a PITA! i know what you mean. i used my large vice grips to hold the end of the spring and i went HULKAMANIA stretching that *itch out! got it on barely and used a hammer with a screwdriver and tapped in a few times until it clipped on all the way over. even when i did the other side it was the same thing!

all torque · Jul 4, 2017

LSturbointeg said:
lol those ebrake springs were a PITA! i know what you mean. i used my large vice grips to hold the end of the spring and i went HULKAMANIA stretching that *itch out! got it on barely and used a hammer with a screwdriver and tapped in a few times until it clipped on all the way over. even when i did the other side it was the same thing!

Hahaha not fun at all. I had to stop the first night because it got late and I was making too much noise hammering away... And cursing.

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all torque · Jul 4, 2017

Finished with tranny temp gauge. It took me a while since I had to order a metric adapter and a short sweep electric cylinder head temp sender in order for it to fit in the test port. Of course something didn't go right. Went on my first test run and the temp maxed out on the gauge. I figured it was the electrical wiring because I wasn't towing a trailer and it wasn't that hot out, maybe low 90s. The instructions told me that the ground wasn't needed since the sender would be grounded with the treads. Luckily I had routed the wiring anyways so I didn't have to disconnect anything or pull the dash apart again. I went for a 15 min test run and it didn't go past the 150 mark. The outside temp was in the high 70s during the second run so I will check again tomorrow.

Oh yeah, I stole Rage232's idea. I put my gauge on the center dash too.

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Updating an 07 SE 4x4 Titan

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LSturbointeg

danman

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LSturbointeg

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Rage232

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honda250xtitan

SuperTighty5.6

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